| Gopalpur tussar silk | |
|---|---|
| Geographical indication | |
 | |
| Alternative names | ଗୋପାଳପୁର ଟସର ବସ୍ତ୍ର |
| Type | Fabric |
| Area | Gopalpur, Jajpur district, Odisha |
| Country | India |
| Registered | 2009 |
| Material | Silk |
The village of Gopalpur in Jajpur District in the Indian state of Odisha is known for producing tussar silk. The handicraft received the Geographical Indication tag by the Government of India in 2009. The fabric may be used for dhoti, shawls, scarves, and saris.[1]
Process[edit | edit source]
Thread[edit | edit source]
Women and girls usually reel the tussar threads holding 'natai'[what language is this?] in their right hand and unwinding the thread around the cocoons with their other hand. Twisting the filament, the weaver winds the yarns on the wooden 'natai' at a continuous speed. Embellishments are done by hand, either with extra weft or extra warp with a 'bandha'[what language is this?] pattern in hand. The embellishments increase the value of the fabric. Alternatively, reeling machines are available.
Spinning[edit | edit source]
Traditionally, thread is wound around the chadaki[what language is this?] to fill the bobbins (nali) for weft with the help of a spinning wheel (charakha). Gandhi charakha or wooden charakha have been replaced by a metal part.
Weaving[edit | edit source]
Fabric is woven using a 'cut shuttle technique', in which shuttles interlock with one another to form foda kumbha in the weft direction. Shuttles on both sides interlock with the main shuttle for the main body of the fabric. By tie and die bandha technique, the foda kumbha pattern is copied for multiple productions.
Design[edit | edit source]
Threads are dyed in different shades, such as maroon, red, plum and rust. Fabrics are designed in tussar and gheecha[what language is this?] and enhanced with a weft and cut shuttle technique.
Industry[edit | edit source]
The tussar silk is mainly marketed by PWCS and SHGs[clarification needed] traders through the Boyanika (OSHWCS), Sambalpuri Bastralaya, SERIFED, Pvt. traders. Sales also take place at exhibitions and in local markets. According to a 2013-14 survey, 745 looms operate in this cluster. Around 5,000 people are dependent on this industry for income.[2]
References[edit | edit source]
- ↑ sethi, Pankaja. "weaving threads of tradition- Traditional textile from gopalpur, Odisha". www.craftrevival.org. Archived from the original on 27 May 2015. Retrieved 31 January 2016.
- ↑ "Gopalpur Handloom-1 Cuttack, Orissa". gocoop.com. Archived from the original on 21 October 2016. Retrieved 31 January 2016.
