Jump to content

Paisley (design): Difference between revisions

30,409 bytes added ,  15 June 2022
robot: Update article (please report if you notice any mistake or error in this edit)
m (1 revision imported)
(robot: Update article (please report if you notice any mistake or error in this edit))
 
Line 1: Line 1:
{{Dead end|date=May 2020}}
{{Short description|Design using a droplet-shaped vegetable motif}}
'''Paisley''' means a distinctive intricate pattern of curved feather-shaped figures based on an Indian pine-cone design.
{{Use dmy dates|date=April 2022}}
For example "a paisley silk tie"
[[File:Shawl LACMA M.84.244.1.jpg|thumb|Shawl made in [[Paisley, Renfrewshire|Paisley]], Scotland, in imitation of [[Kashmir shawl]]s, c. 1830]]


'''Paisley''' or '''paisley pattern''' is an ornamental [[textile]] design using the ''[[Buta (ornament)|boteh]]'' ({{lang-fa|بته}}) or ''buta'', a teardrop-shaped motif with a curved upper end. Of [[Culture of Iran|Persian]] origin, paisley designs became popular in the West in the 18th and 19th centuries, following imports of post–[[Mughal Empire]] versions of the design from [[India]], especially in the form of [[Kashmir shawl]]s, and were then replicated locally.<ref>Dusenbury and Bier, 48–50</ref>


[[Category:Cloth]]
Although the pine cone or [[almond]]-like form is of Persian origin, and the textile designs cramming many of them into a rich pattern are originally Indian, the English name for the patterns derives from the town of [[Paisley, Renfrewshire|Paisley]], in the west of [[Scotland]], a centre for textiles where paisley designs were produced.<ref>{{Citation | publisher = Oxford | title = Oxford English Dictionary}}.</ref> 
[[Category:Culture of India]]
[[File:Paisley HawesCurtis.JPG|thumb|English paisley shirts, 1960s or later]]
[[Category:Fashion]]
 
[[Category:Iranian culture]]
In the mid- to late 1960s, paisley became identified with [[psychedelia|psychedelic]] style and enjoyed mainstream popularity, partly due to [[the Beatles]].<ref>{{Cite web | url=http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20151021-paisley-behind-rocks-favourite-fashion | title=Paisley: The story of a classic bohemian print | access-date=2018-05-31 | archive-date=2018-05-27 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180527212927/http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20151021-paisley-behind-rocks-favourite-fashion | url-status=live }}</ref> Consequently, the style was particularly popular during the [[Summer of Love]] in 1967. The company [[Fender Musical Instruments Corporation|Fender]] made a pink paisley version of their [[Telecaster]] guitar, by sticking paisley wallpaper onto the guitar bodies.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.tdpri.com/wp-tdpri/resources/paisley-teles/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180612141914/http://www.tdpri.com/wp-tdpri/resources/paisley-teles/|archive-date=12 June 2018|title=Paisley Teles|date=2009|website=Telecaster Discussion Page}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web | url=https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/1968_Fender_Paisley_Telecaster_and_Telecaster_Bass | title=1968 Fender Paisley Telecaster and Telecaster Bass | date=14 June 2011 | access-date=2018-06-10 | archive-date=2019-10-27 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191027134518/https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/1968_Fender_Paisley_Telecaster_and_Telecaster_Bass | url-status=live }}</ref>
[[Category:Symbols]]
 
[[Category:Tamil culture]]
[[Image:Persian Silk Brocade - Paisley - Persian Paisley - Seyyed Hossein Mozhgani - 1963.jpg|thumb|Persian silk [[brocade]] with gold and silver thread (''golabetoon''), woven in 1963.]]
[[Category:Woven fabrics]]
The pattern is still commonly seen in Britain and other English-speaking countries on [[Necktie|men's ties]], [[waistcoats]], and scarfs, and remains popular in other items of clothing and textiles in [[Iran]] and [[South Asia|South]] and [[Central Asia]]n countries.
 
==Origins==
[[File:Shawl Fragment (India), 19th century (CH 18615341).jpg|thumb|Shawl fragment, India, 20th century]]
Some design scholars{{who|date=September 2015}} believe the buta is the convergence of a stylized floral spray and a [[Cupressus sempervirens|cypress]] tree: a [[Zoroastrian]] symbol of [[life]] and [[eternity]].<ref name=ZT>{{Citation | url = http://www.zanzibartrading.com/indian_shawls.htm | title = Indian Hand Woven Jacquard Jamavar Shawls | publisher = Zanzibar Trading | access-date = 2012-02-07 | archive-date = 2012-01-18 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20120118083542/http://www.zanzibartrading.com/indian_shawls.htm | url-status = live }}.</ref> The "bent" cedar is also a sign of strength and resistance but modesty. The floral motif was originated in the [[Sassanid dynasty]] and later in the [[Safavid dynasty]] of Persia (1501–1736), and was a major textile pattern in Iran during the [[Qajar dynasty|Qajar]] and [[Pahlavi dynasty|Pahlavi]] dynasties. In these periods, the pattern was used to decorate royal [[regalia]], crowns, and court garments, as well as textiles used by the general population.{{citation needed|date=May 2018}}  [[Persian art|Persian]] and Central Asian designs usually range the motifs in orderly rows, with a plain background.
 
=== Ancient Indo-Iranian origins ===
{{Weasel|section|date=December 2020}}
There is significant speculation as to the origins and symbolism of Boteh Jehgeh, or "ancient motif", known in English as paisley.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|url=https://www.sid.ir/en/seminar/ViewPaper.aspx?id=8597|title=SID.ir {{!}} A GLANCE AT THE FIGURE OF BOTEH JEGHEH (ANCIENT MOTIF)|website=www.sid.ir|access-date=2019-12-05|archive-date=2020-09-10|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200910063336/https://www.sid.ir/en/seminar/ViewPaper.aspx?id=8597|url-status=live}}</ref>  With experts contesting different time periods for its emergence, to understand the proliferation in the popularity of Boteh Jehgeh design and eventually Paisley, it is important to understand [[South Asian history]]. The early [[Indo-Iranians|Indo-Iranian]] people flourished in South Asia, where they eventually exchanged linguistic, cultural, and even religious similarities.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=GXzycd3dT9kC&q=indo+iranian+peoples&pg=PA357|title=History of Civilizations of Central Asia|last1=Dani|first1=Ahmad Hasan|last2=Masson|first2=Vadim Mikhaĭlovich|date=1999|publisher=Motilal Banarsidass Publ.|isbn=978-81-208-1407-3|language=en|access-date=2019-12-24|archive-date=2020-09-10|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200910063334/https://books.google.com/books?id=GXzycd3dT9kC&pg=PA357&dq=indo+iranian+peoples&hl=en#v=onepage&q=indo%20iranian%20peoples&f=false|url-status=live}}</ref>  The ancient Indo-Iranian people shared a religion called [[Zoroastrianism]].<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7oyiAgAAQBAJ&q=zoroastrian+religion+cypress+tree&pg=PP1|title=Pious Citizens: Reforming Zoroastrianism in India and Iran|last=Ringer|first=Monica|date=2011-12-13|publisher=Syracuse University Press|isbn=978-0-8156-5060-7|language=en|access-date=2019-12-24|archive-date=2020-09-10|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200910063335/https://books.google.com/books?id=7oyiAgAAQBAJ&pg=PP1&dq=zoroastrian+religion+cypress+tree&hl=en#v=onepage&q=zoroastrian%20religion%20cypress%20tree&f=false|url-status=live}}</ref> Zoroastrianism, some experts{{Who|date=December 2020}} argue, served as one of the earliest influences for Boteh Jegeh's design with the shape representing the cypress tree, an ancient zoroastrian religious symbol.<ref name=":1" /> Others{{Who|date=December 2020}} contest that the earliest representation of the patterns shape comes from the [[Sasanian Empire|Sassanid Dynasty]], who lived in modern-day Iran, dating to more than 2,200 years BCE and remained in power until the 3rd century CE.<ref name=":2">{{Cite web|url=https://www.paisley.org.uk/2013/01/roots-of-the-paisley-pattern/|title=Roots of the Paisley Pattern|last=McGuire|first=Brian|date=2013-01-24|website=Paisley Scotland|language=en-GB|access-date=2019-12-04|archive-date=2019-12-05|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191205043614/https://www.paisley.org.uk/2013/01/roots-of-the-paisley-pattern/|url-status=live}}</ref> The design was representative of a tear drop.<ref name=":2" />  Some{{Who|date=December 2020}} will argue that Boteh Jehgeh's origins stem from old religious beliefs and its meaning could symbolize the sun, a phoenix, or even an ancient Iranian religious sign for an eagle.<ref name=":0" /> Around the same time, a pattern called [[Buta (ornament)|Boteh]] was gaining popularity in Iran; the pattern was a floral design, and was used as a high class decoration, mostly serving to decorate royal items that belonged to those of high status.<ref name=":2" /> It was said{{Weasel inline|date=December 2020}} to have been a pattern worn to represent elite social status, such as that of nobility.  The pattern was traditionally woven onto silk clothing using silver and gold material.<ref name=":2" /> The earliest evidence of the design being traded with other cultures was found at the Red Sea, where it is predicted that the earliest trades took place as far back as the 15th century, with both [[Egypt]]ian and [[Greeks|Greek]] peoples.{{Citation needed|date=December 2019}}
 
== Introduction of Boteh Jegeh to Western culture ==
In the 18th and 19th centuries, the [[East India Company|British East India Company]] introduced Kashmir shawls from India to England and Scotland where they were extremely fashionable and soon duplicated.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20151021-paisley-behind-rocks-favourite-fashion|title=Paisley: The story of a classic bohemian print|last=Baker|first=Lindsay|website=www.bbc.com|language=en|access-date=2019-12-05|archive-date=2019-12-03|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191203200905/http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20151021-paisley-behind-rocks-favourite-fashion|url-status=live}}</ref>  The first place in the western world to imitate the design was the town of [[Paisley, Renfrewshire|Paisley]] in Scotland, Europe's top producer of textiles at this time.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.macmillandictionaryblog.com/paisley|title=What is paisley? {{!}} Macmillan Dictionary Blog|date=3 May 2018|language=en-US|access-date=2019-12-05|archive-date=2019-12-05|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191205043616/http://www.macmillandictionaryblog.com/paisley|url-status=live}}</ref>  Before being produced in Paisley, thus gaining its name in western culture, the paisley design was originally referred to by westerners simply as just pine and cone design.<ref name=":32">{{Cite web|url=https://pdfslide.net/documents/buta-to-paisley-an-ongoing-journey-laureate-legal-terms-andpaisley-a-motif-.html|title=Buta to Paisley An ongoing Journey - Laureate Legal Terms and...Paisley A motif- * Intensively used in ... palm tree leaf Pearl Academy, ... In Kashmir the name used to describe this motif is buta or buti|website=pdfslide.net|language=en|access-date=2019-12-05|archive-date=2019-12-05|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191205043614/https://pdfslide.net/documents/buta-to-paisley-an-ongoing-journey-laureate-legal-terms-andpaisley-a-motif-.html|url-status=live}}</ref> Technological innovation in [[textile manufacturing]] around this time made it so that western imitations of Kashmir shawls became competitive with Indian made shawls from Kashmir.<ref name=":6">{{Cite journal|last=Maskiell|first=Michelle|title=Consuming Kashmir: Shawls and Empires, 1500-2000|journal=Journal of World History|volume=13|pages=27–65|doi=10.1353/jwh.2002.0019|year=2002|s2cid=144868279}}</ref>
 
With the industrial revolution taking place in Europe, paisley shawls were manufactured at an industrial rate, and while the shawls from India could be quite expensive at the time, factory manufactured shawls made it so that the fashion became commonplace among middle-class people, thus boosting the design's popularity even more.<ref name=":32"/>  While the western world appropriated much of eastern culture and design, the Boteh design was by far the most popular.<ref name=":6" /> Records indicate that [[William Moorcroft (explorer)|William Moorcroft]], an English businessman and explorer, visited the [[Himalayas|Himalayan mountains]] in the mid 19th century; upon his arrival, he was enthralled by Boteh designed Kashmir shawls and tried to arrange for entire families of Indian textile workers to move their lives to the United Kingdom.<ref name=":52">{{Cite journal|last=Karpinski|first=Caroline|date=November 1963|title=Kashmir to Paisley|journal=The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin|volume=22|issue=3|pages=116–123|doi=10.2307/3258212|jstor=3258212}}</ref>  The earliest paisley shawls made in the United Kingdom, in Paisley, Scotland, were made out of fleece, a material that is put together in such a way that one side can be described as containing a soft, fluffy texture.
 
In Asia the paisley shawls were primarily worn by males often in formal or ceremonial contexts, but in Europe the shawls were primarily worn by women instead of men.  While still holding an accurate resemblance to its original influence, the paisley design would begin to change once it began to be produced in western culture, with different towns in the United Kingdom applying their own spin to the design.<ref name=":42">{{Cite web|url=http://guity-novin.blogspot.com/2018/07/chapter-92-history-of-paisley-or-boteh.html|title=A History of Graphic Design: Chapter 92 - A history of Paisley or Boteh Jegheh Design|last=Novin|first=Guity|website=A History of Graphic Design|access-date=2019-12-19|archive-date=2020-02-27|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200227170953/http://guity-novin.blogspot.com/2018/07/chapter-92-history-of-paisley-or-boteh.html|url-status=live}}</ref>  The peak period of paisley as a fashionable design ended in the 1870s,<ref name=":7">{{Cite journal|last1=Welters|first1=Linda|last2=Beasley|first2=Elizabeth|last3=Dee-Collins|first3=Nicole|last4=Gilcrease|first4=Sallie|last5=Lukens|first5=Catherine|date=2017-01-01|title=Second Chances for Paisley Shawls|url=https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/itaa_proceedings/2017/posters/102|journal=International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings|access-date=2019-12-19|archive-date=2019-12-05|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191205043613/https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/itaa_proceedings/2017/posters/102/|url-status=live}}</ref> perhaps as so many cheap versions were on the market.
 
The 1960s proved to be a massive time of revival for the paisley design in western culture. Popular culture in the United States developed a sort of fixation on eastern cultures in which many traditionally Indian styles became popularized.  Paisley served as one of the styles to be revived, being worn by the likes of the Beatles, even the guitar company Fender used the design to decorate one of their most famous guitars, the [[Fender Telecaster]]. Today, the design remains common appearing on jewellery, suit ties, pocket books, cake decorations, tattoos, mouse pads for computers, scarves, and dresses.  The pattern also influences furniture design internationally, with many countries using the paisley design for things such as wallpaper, pillows, curtains, and bed spreads.<ref name=":32"/>
 
Local manufacturers in [[Marseille]] began to mass-produce the patterns via early [[textile printing]] processes in 1640.  England, circa 1670, and [[Holland]], in 1678, soon followed.  This in turn provided Europe's weavers with more competition than they could bear, and the production and import of printed paisley was forbidden in France by royal decree from 1686 to 1759.  However, enforcement near the end of that period was lax, and France had its own printed textile manufacturing industry in place as early at 1746 in some locales.  Paisley was not the only design produced by French textile printers; the demand for paisley which created the industry there also made possible production of native patterns such as ''[[toile#Toile de Jouy|toile de Jouy]]''.<ref name="PROHIBIT">{{Citation | contribution-url = http://www.musee-impression.com/gb/collection/xviii.html | contribution = The Prohibition Years, 1686–1759 | title = Le Musée de l'Impression sur Etoffes | trans-title = The Museum of Printed Textiles | access-date = February 3, 2008 | archive-date = February 21, 2008 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20080221091213/http://www.musee-impression.com/gb/collection/xviii.html | url-status = live }}.</ref>
 
In the 19th century, European production of paisley increased, particularly in the Scottish town from which the pattern takes its modern name.  Soldiers returning from the [[British Empire|colonies]] brought home [[cashmere wool]] [[shawl]]s from India, and the [[British East India Company|East India Company]] imported more. The design was copied from the costly silk and wool Kashmir shawls and adapted first for use on handlooms, and, after 1820,<ref name="VICTORIANA">{{Citation | url = http://www.victoriana.com/library/paisley/shawl.html | title = Beyond the Fringe: Shawls of Paisley Design | first = Meg | last = Andrews | publisher = Victoriana | access-date = February 3, 2008 | archive-date = February 16, 2008 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20080216001719/http://www.victoriana.com/library/paisley/shawl.html | url-status = live }}.  Heavily illustrated history of paisley fashions.</ref> on [[Jacquard loom]]s.
 
From roughly 1800 to 1850, the weavers of the town of [[Paisley, Renfrewshire|Paisley]] in [[Renfrewshire]], [[Scotland]], became the foremost producers of [[Paisley shawls]].  Unique additions to their hand-looms and Jacquard looms allowed them to work in five colours when most weavers were producing paisley using only two.<ref name="VICTORIANA"/>  The design became known as the ''Paisley pattern''.  By 1860, Paisley could produce shawls with 15 colours, which was still only a quarter of the colors in the multicolour paisleys then still being imported from Kashmir.<ref name="VICTORIANA" />
In addition to the loom-woven fabric, the town of Paisley became a major site for the manufacture of printed [[cotton]] and [[wool]] in the 19th century, according to the [[Paisley Museum and Art Galleries]].<ref name="MUSUEM">{{Citation | contribution-url = http://www.aboutbritain.com/PaisleyMuseumAndArtGallery.htm | contribution = Paisley Museum and Art Gallery | title = About Britain | access-date = 2008-02-03 | archive-date = 2008-03-05 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20080305142201/http://www.aboutbritain.com/PaisleyMuseumAndArtGallery.htm | url-status = live }}.</ref>  The paisley pattern was being printed, rather than woven, onto other textiles, including cotton squares which were the precursors of the modern [[bandanna]].  Printed paisley was cheaper than the costly woven paisley and this added to its popularity. The key places of printing paisley were Britain and the [[Alsace]] region of France.<ref>{{Citation | contribution-url = http://www.musee-impression.com/gb/collection/xix.html | contribution = Printed ‘Paisley’ in the 19th Century | title = Le Musée de l'Impression sur Etoffes | trans-title = The Museum of Printed Textiles | access-date = February 3, 2008 | archive-date = March 5, 2015 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20150305023039/http://www.musee-impression.com/gb/collection/xix.html | url-status = live }}.</ref>
 
At the [[2010 Winter Olympics]], [[Azerbaijan]]'s [[Azerbaijan at the 2010 Winter Olympics|team]] sported colorful paisley trousers.<ref>{{Citation | title = Tonic | contribution-url = http://www.tonic.com/article/vancouver-2010-the-olympics-of-the-silly-pants/ | contribution = Vancouver 2010: The Olympics of the Silly Pants | access-date = 2010-05-21 | archive-date = 2010-02-23 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20100223030353/http://www.tonic.com/article/vancouver-2010-the-olympics-of-the-silly-pants/ | url-status = live }}.</ref>
It was the emblem of the [[2012 FIFA U-17 Women's World Cup]], held in Azerbaijan.
 
== Islamic control in South Asia and spread of the pattern ==
In Persian language, Boteh can be translated to shrub or bush, while in [[Kashmir]] it carried the same meaning but was referred to as Buta, or Bu.<ref name=":32"/> One of the earliest evidence of the pattern as it relates to Islamic culture has been found at Noh Gumba mosque, in the city of [[Balkh]] in Afghanistan, where it is predicted that the pattern was included in the design as early as the 800s when the mosque was built.  In early Iranian culture, the design was woven onto Termeh, one of the most valuable materials in early Iran where the design served to make clothing for the nobility.  At this time, the Iranian nobility wore distinct uniforms called Khalaat, historically, the design was commonly found on the Khalaat uniforms.<ref name=":42"/> It is stated that at some point in the 15th century, Boteh was transported from Persia to Kashmir.<ref name=":32" />  In the same century, in the 1400s, some of the earliest recorded Kashmir shawls were produced in India, records from the 1500s, during Emperor Akbar's reign over the Mughal people in this area indicate that shawl making was already fashionable in India prior to Mughal conquest which took place in the early 1400s.<ref name=":52"/>  It has been stated that during Emperor Akbars reign over the Mughal empire, Boteh Jehgeh shawls were extremely popular and fashionable.  While one shawl was traditionally worn previously, it was during the rule of Emperor Akbar that the emperor decided to wear two shawls at a time to serve as a status symbol.  Along with wearing the shawls frequently, Emperor Akbar also used the shawls as gifts to other rulers and high officials.<ref name=":52" />  It is believed that by the 18th century, Kashmir shawls were produced in the image that someone today would associate with modern paisley.<ref name=":32" />
 
== Paisley bandanas ==
[[File:ZM1-02.JPG|thumb|A red [[bandana]] with a paisley pattern]]
While today some people associate bandanas with cowboys or [[Cholo]] culture, paisley bandanas were popular during the late 1700s and their popularity in the United States coincides with the American revolution.  [[George Washington]] allegedly wore a paisley bandana as a scarf, the popular way of wearing bandanas at that time.{{citation needed|date=May 2020}} In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, paisley bandanas began to appear with political and military advertisements printed on them.{{citation needed|date=May 2020}}  Such printed bandanas were prevalent during the early and mid- 20th century when [[World War I]] and [[World War II]] were being fought.  It was thought that by purchasing and sporting a pro-war paisley bandana the buyer was helping to support their country in winning the war.{{citation needed|date=May 2020}}  The paisley bandana started to feature in Western movies and thus became a symbol of the American West.{{citation needed|date=May 2020}}
 
Through the 1970s, paisley bandanas were worn by many blue collar and labor workers to keep dust out of their mouths and noses. The bandana's symbolism once again shifted in American minds, being associated with hard work.{{citation needed|date=May 2020}}  Famous country singer [[Willie Nelson]] began wearing bandanas when he moved from Nashville back to Austin, Texas "just in time to catch the hippie wave cresting at counterculture center the Armadillo World Headquarters."<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.timeout.com/chicago/music/nine-things-you-didnt-know-about-willie-nelson |title=Nine-Things-You-Didnt-Know-About-Willie-Nelson  |access-date=2021-01-19 |url-status=live}}</ref> Around the same time, bandanas also became popular with motorcyclists, particularly with Harley Davidson riders and [[Motorcycling|bikers]]."{{citation needed|date=May 2020}}  In the 1970s paisley bandanas also became popular amongst gangs in California, most notably with two well-known rival gangs, the [[Bloods]] who would wear red bandanas and the [[Crips]] who would wear blue bandanas.<ref>{{Cite journal|date=2016-01-18|title=Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia2016 010 Edited by Annette Lynch and Mitchell D.Strauss Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia Lanham, MD Rowman & Littlefield 2015 x + 326 pp. 9780759121485(print) 9780759121508(e-book) £49.95 $75|journal=Reference Reviews|volume=30|issue=1|pages=17|doi=10.1108/rr-09-2015-0225|issn=0950-4125}}</ref>
[[File:Tie (AM 1996.180.4-4).jpg|thumb|Modern men's tie, before 1996]]
[[Prince (musician)|Prince]] paid tribute to the [[rock and roll]] history of paisley when he created the [[Paisley Park Records]] recording label and established [[Paisley Park Studios]], both named after his 1985 song "[[Paisley Park (song)|Paisley Park]]". The [[Paisley Underground]] was a music scene active around the same time.
 
Paisley was a favorite design element of British-Indian architect [[Laurie Baker]]. He has made numerous drawings and collages of what he called "mango designs".<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.indulekha.com/colours/2008/03/mango-mania-by-laurie-baker-1.html |title=Archived copy |access-date=2016-01-09 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081002033712/http://www.indulekha.com/colours/2008/03/mango-mania-by-laurie-baker-1.html |archive-date=2008-10-02 }}</ref> He used to include the shape in the buildings he designed also.<ref>{{Cite web| url=http://www.livemint.com/Leisure/djP08vKPt2lHkjsInYkItN/The-mango-house.html| title=The mango house| date=2008-07-24| access-date=2016-01-09| archive-date=2016-02-07| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160207045604/http://www.livemint.com/Leisure/djP08vKPt2lHkjsInYkItN/The-mango-house.html| url-status=live}}</ref>
 
==In other languages==
 
The modern [[French (language)|French]] words for paisley are ''{{lang|fr|boteh}}'', ''{{lang|fr|cachemire}}'' ("[[:fr:Cachemire (tissu)|cashmere]]"; not capitalized, which would mean "[[:fr:Cachemire|Kashmir]], the region") and ''{{lang|fr|palme}}'' ("[[Arecaceae|palm]]", which – along with the [[pine]] and the [[cypress]] – is one of the traditional botanical motifs thought to have influenced the shape of the paisley element as it is now known).<ref name= ZT /><ref name="SHARONB">{{Citation | url = http://pintangle.com/2006/08/29/a-prune-or-a-pickle-the-process-of-working-up-a-small-design/ | title = A prune or a pickle: the process of working up a small design | author = Sharon B | publisher = Wordpress | date = Aug 29, 2006 | access-date = February 3, 2008 | archive-date = January 19, 2015 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20150119043838/http://pintangle.com/2006/08/29/a-prune-or-a-pickle-the-process-of-working-up-a-small-design/ | url-status = live }}.</ref>{{Failed verification|date=October 2008}}
 
In various languages of India and Pakistan, the design's name is related to the word for [[mango]]:<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://sewguide.com/paisley-pattern/|title=Paisley Pattern : The ever favourite Fabric Pattern revisited – Sew Guide|work=Sew Guide|access-date=2018-02-01|language=en-US|archive-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180202071521/https://sewguide.com/paisley-pattern/|url-status=live}}</ref>
* In [[Bengali language|Bengali]]: ''kalka''<ref>{{cite book| author= Zaman Niaz| title= The Art of KANTHA Embroidery| edition= Second Revised| year= 1993| page=82| publisher= The University Press Limited| location =Dhaka, Bangladesh| isbn= 978-984-05-1228-7}}</ref>
* In [[Telugu language|Telugu]]: ''mamidi pinde', young mango pattern
* In [[Tamil language|Tamil]]: ''mankolam'', mango pattern
* In [[Marathi language|Marathi]]: ''koyari'', mango seed
* In [[Hindi]]/[[Urdu]]: ''carrey'' or ''kerii'', means unripe mango<ref>{{Cite web | url=http://forum.wordreference.com/threads/urdu-and-punjabi-kerii.1986455/ | title=Urdu and Punjabi: Kerii | access-date=2015-06-24 | archive-date=2015-06-24 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150624064153/http://forum.wordreference.com/threads/urdu-and-punjabi-kerii.1986455/ | url-status=live }}</ref>
* In [[Punjabi language|Punjabi]]: ''ambi'', from ''amb'', mango.{{Citation needed|date=August 2010}}
 
In [[Chinese language|Chinese]], it is known as the "[[ham hock]] pattern" ({{lang-zh|s=火腿纹|p=huǒtuǐwén}}).{{Citation needed|date=October 2020}} In [[Russia]], this ornament is known as "cucumbers" ({{lang|ru|огурцы}}).<ref>{{Cite web | url=http://blog.berite.info/Paisley/ | title=Журнал любопытных вещей &#124; Paisley — благородный орнамент, "слеза Аллаха", турецкий боб или просто "огурец" | access-date=2017-01-05 | archive-date=2017-01-05 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170105175830/http://blog.berite.info/Paisley/ | url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web | url=http://best-guide.ru/?p=6008 | title=The Best Guide &#124; Узор Paisley | access-date=2017-01-05 | archive-date=2017-01-05 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170105181803/http://best-guide.ru/?p=6008 | url-status=live }}</ref>
 
''Boteh'' is a Persian word meaning bush, cluster of leaves or a flower bud.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.heritageinstitute.com/zoroastrianism/trade/paisley.htm|title=Boteh (Botteh, Paisley). Aryan Silk & Trade|website=www.heritageinstitute.com|access-date=2019-06-04|archive-date=2019-05-24|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190524113000/http://www.heritageinstitute.com/zoroastrianism/trade/paisley.htm|url-status=live}}</ref>
 
==References==
{{clear right}}
 
=== Citations ===
{{Reflist }}
 
===Sources===
*Dusenbury, Mary M. and Bier, Carol, ''Flowers, Dragons & Pine Trees: Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art'', 2004, Hudson Hills, {{ISBN|1555952380}}, 9781555952389, [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=566AlluiHT0C&pg=PA48 p. 48]
* F. Petri, ''Origin of the Book of the Dead Angient Egipt''. 1926. June part 2 с 41–45
* С. Ашурбейли «Новые изыскания по истории Баку и Девичьей башни» Альманах искусств 1972 г, С.Ашурбейли «О датировке и назначении Гыз галасы в крепости» Элм. 1974 г.
 
== Further reading ==
{{commons category|Paisley pattern}}
* {{Citation | last = Irwin | first = John | title = The Kashmir Shawl | publisher = Victoria and Albert Museum | year = 1973 | isbn = 978-0-11-290164-8}}.
* {{Citation | last = Levi-Strauss | first = Monique | title = The French Shawls | publisher = Dryad | year = 1987 | isbn = 978-0-85219-759-2}}.
* {{Citation | last = Reilly | first = Valerie | title = The Paisley Pattern: The Official Illustrated History | publisher = Richard Drew | place = Glasgow | year = 1987 | isbn = 978-0-87905-317-8}}.


{{fabric}}


{{stub}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Paisley (Design)}}
[[Category:17th-century fashion]]
[[Category:18th-century fashion]]
[[Category:19th-century fashion]]
[[Category:20th-century fashion]]
[[Category:21st-century fashion]]
[[Category:Renfrewshire]]
[[Category:Persian culture]]
[[Category:Tamil culture]]
[[Category:Scottish design]]
[[Category:Scottish clothing]]
[[Category:Textile patterns]]
[[Category:Visual motifs]]
[[Category:Paisley, Renfrewshire]]