History of Kodaikanal: Difference between revisions

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'''Kodaikanal''' ({{lang-ta|கொடைக்கானல்}}) is a city<ref>city definition: [[Town#India]]</ref> and a [[Dindigul district#Divisions|Taluk]] division of [[Dindigul district]] in the [[States and territories of India|state]] of [[Tamil Nadu]], India.
 
The earliest residents of Kodaikanal were the [[Paliyan]] tribal people. The earliest specific references to Kodaikanal and the [[Palani Hills]] are found in Tamil [[Sangam literature]] of the early Christian era.<ref name=Mitchell>Mitchell Nora, ''Indian Hill Station: Kodaikanal'', University of Chicago, Dept. of Geography, [https://books.google.com/books?lr=&ei=jSjXSLfECIm6zAShg-XrDg&id=1yZjAAAAIAAJ&dq=%22Mitchell%22+%22Indian+Hill+Station%22&q=+kodaikanal+sangam&pgis=1 Kodaikanal Sangam, p97], 1972 Original from the University of California Digitized 28 Jan 2008</ref>
 
Modern Kodaikanal was established as a [[hill station]] by [[American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions|American missionaries]] in 1845, as a refuge from the high temperatures and [[tropical disease]]s of the [[Deccan plateau|plains]].<ref>Mitchell Nora, ''Indian Hill Station: Kodaikanal'', University of Chicago, Dept. of Geography, [https://books.google.com/books?lr=&ei=jSjXSLfECIm6zAShg-XrDg&id=1yZjAAAAIAAJ&dq=%22Mitchell%22+%22Indian+Hill+Station%22&q=tropical+disease&pgis=1 ch 2, Rational for Tropical Hill Stations, pp13-15], 1972.  Original from the University of California Digitized 28 Jan 2008</ref>
 
In the 20th century a few elite Indians came to realize the value of this place and started relocating here. Kodaikanal is sometimes referred to as the "Princess of [[Hill Station]]s". Much of the local economy is now based on the [[hospitality industry]], serving national and international [[tourism|tourists]].<ref name=TDC>Tamil Nadu Tourism Development Corporation and Department of Tourism,  [http://www.tamilnadutourism.org/places/citiestowns/Kodaikkanal.aspxCatId=C1&SubCat1Id=C1S1&SubCat2Id=C1S1S13 Kodaikanal Princess of Hill Stations]{{dead link|date=May 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref>[[File:Kodaikanal Bazzar 1910.jpg|thumb|200px|Kodaikanal Bazzar Road,<br />(Annai Salai), 1910]]
 
==Etymology==
The [[Tamil language]] [[Tamil script|word]] கோடைக்கானல், refers to "a sanatorium at the top of Kodaikanal, the southern ridge of the Palani hills more than 7,000 ft. high".<ref>Fabricius, Johann Philipp. ''J. P. Fabricius's Tamil and English dictionary''. 4th ed., rev.and enl. Tranquebar: Evangelical Lutheran Mission Pub. House, [https://dsal.uchicago.edu/cgi-bin/romadict.pl?query=kodaikanal&table=fabricius Kodaikanal, P. 312]</ref>
 
It is not known who first used this name or what they intended it to mean, however, in the Tamil language there are at least five meanings. The word is formed from the two separate Tamil words ''Kodai''<!--needs Tamil script--> and '''''kāṉal''''' (கானல்). ''kāṉal'' means a wood on a hill-slope,<ref>Fabricius, Johann Philipp. ''J. P. Fabricius's Tamil and English dictionary''. 4th ed., rev.and enl. Tranquebar: Evangelical Lutheran Mission Pub. House, [https://dsal.uchicago.edu/cgi-bin/romadict.pl?query=கானல்&table=fabricius p. 238, kāṉal]</ref> a dense forest or a closed forest.
 
Another Tamil meaning for வல்லி (''Kodi'') is [[Valli]],<ref>Fabricius, Johann Philipp. ''J. P. Fabricius's Tamil and English dictionary''. 4th ed., rev.and enl. Tranquebar: Evangelical Lutheran Mission Pub. House, [https://dsal.uchicago.edu/dictionaries/fabricius/ p,855, online (1972) edition]</ref> the honey collecting daughter of the chief of the Veddas mountain [[tribe]]. In [[History of Kodaikanal#Ancient times|ancient times]] the chief and his wife prayed to the Mountain God for a girl-child. Their prayers were answered when the chief found a new-born girl child during a hunting expedition. As she was found among creeper plants, they named the child Valli and she grew up as princess of the tribe  [[Sangam landscape#Kurinji .E2.80.93 Mountainous Region|''Kurinji'']] and became the consort of lord [[Murugan]]<ref name="K"/> The romantic traditions of Murugan in [[Murugan#Sangam literature|Sangam literature]] are thus claimed to be associated with the name Kodaikanal. By integrating these meanings, Kodaikanal is "that place at the end of Valli's forest which is a gift in the summer".
 
Recently, tourists and locals have labelled Kodaikanal "Switzerland of the East", "Set of Southern Emeralds", "Chilled paradise among the Hills" and "Summer Heaven".<ref name=DMA2>Kodaikanal Department Of Municipal Administration And Water Supply, [http://www.municipality.tn.gov.in/kodaikanal/abcity_city.htm The meanings of the name Kodaikanal] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100316080804/http://www.municipality.tn.gov.in/kodaikanal/abcity_city.htm |date=16 March 2010 }}, 2005</ref>
 
==Ancient times==
<!-- Image with inadequate rationale removed: [[File:Paliyan extended family.jpg|thumb|200px| Palaiyar extended family]] -->
[[File:Murugan by Raja Ravi Varma.jpg|thumb|200px|Murugan by – [[Raja Ravi Varma]]]]
There is archaeological evidence of human habitation in this area before the [[Common Era|Current Era]] (BCE). [[Megalith]]ic [[Dolmen#Asia|dolmen]]s dating from early [[Chera Dynasty]] times, earthen pots and other artefacts which have been found here prove that the earliest residents of Kodaikanal were the [[Paliyan|Palaiyar]] (Pazhaiyar, "old ones") [[Tribe|tribal]] people. Some local relics and artefacts of the Palaiyar can be seen in the Shenbaganur Museum.<ref name=gifts/>
 
The earliest written references to Kodaikanal and the Palani Hills are found in Tamil [[Sangam literature]] of the early Christian era.<ref name="Mitchell"/> The classical Tamil poetic work [[Kuṟuntokai]], the second book of the anthology [[Ettuthokai]], contains poems dealing with matters of love and separation. It evokes the geographic [[Sangam landscape|''thinai'']] of the mountainous region of [[Sangam landscape#Kurinji .E2.80.93 Mountainous Region|''Kurinji'']]. It is the scene of lovers' union at midnight, a forest rich with lakes, waterfalls, teak, bamboo and sandalwood. In this region millet grows and wild bees are a source of honey.
 
Love in this setting is exemplified by [[Murugan]], and his consort, [[Valli]], the honey collecting daughter of a ''Kurinji'' mountain dweller. He rides a [[Indian peafowl|peacock]], the bird of the mountains. The name of the region, ''Kurinji'', derives from the name of the famous flower [[Strobilanthes kunthiana|Kurinji]] found only in the lofty hills of Tamil country.<ref name=K/>
 
The once in ten or twelve years blossom of the Kurinji is an event of jubilation and purity symbolizing the frenzy of a sudden love shared, in concert with the unleashed forces of nature: the amorous dance of peacocks, their echoing cries, the splash of waterfalls, the roar of savage beasts. The lovers hold each other tighter still and forget the dangers of the mountain path.<ref name=K>[[Sangam landscape#Kurinji .E2.80.93 Mountainous Region]]</ref>
 
One of the Kuṟuntokai poems:
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'''குறிஞ்சி – தலைவன் கூற்று'''
 
கொங்குதேர் வாழ்க்கை அஞ்சிறைத் தும்பி <br />
காமம் செப்பாது கண்டது மொழிமோ <br />
பயிலியது கெழீஇய நட்பின் மயிலியல் <br />
செறியெயிற் றரிவை கூந்தலின் <br />
நறியவும் உளவோ நீயறியும் பூவே.
 
-இறையனார்.
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'''Kurinji (Kuruntokai – 2)'''<br />
Beautiful-winged bee<br />
whose life is passed in search of honey<br />
don't speak to me of desire<br />
but tell me what you really saw:
 
Could even the flowers that you know <br />
be as full of fragrance <br />
as the hair of the woman <br />
with the even set of teeth and the peacock nature, <br />
to whom long affection binds me?
 
– [[Iraiyanar Agapporul|Iraiyanar]]<ref name=K/>
 
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[[File:Strobilanths kunthiana.jpg|thumb|200px|[[Sangam landscape#Kurinji .E2.80.93 Mountainous Region|''Kurinji'']]]]
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The legacy of this epic Sangam love poetry is maintained by Arulmighu Dhandayuthapani Swamy Thiru Kovil, Palani at The '''Kurinji Andavar Temple''' in Kodaikanal. This holy place is known for the [[Strobilanthes kunthiana|Kurinji flower]]s which blossom nearby only once every 12 years.
 
The deity here is called ''Sri Kurinji Easware''. He is in fact Lord Murugan.<ref>Arulmighu Dhandayuthapani Swamy Thiru Kovil, Palani, [http://www.kumbakonam.info/muruga/kurinji/kurunji-index.htm Kurinji Andavar Temple]</ref>
 
Agricultural settlers of the Palani Hills, mainly Mannadiyar ("Kings Relative's) caste, were allotted these hill lands about the 14th century by the [[Madurai Nayak Dynasty]], according to some local people {{Citation needed|date=October 2008}}, though others claim that their ancestors came later as refugees from the Palani foothills who escaped from the invasions of [[Tippu Sultan]].<ref name=gifts>Incredible India, [http://travelincredibleindia.blogspot.com/2007/07/kodaikanal-tamil-word-kodaikanal-which.html  ''Kodaikanal — Gift of the Forest''], 29 July 2007</ref>
 
==Western settlers==
In 1821, the first westerner to visit Kodaikanal, a British Lieutenant, B. S. Ward,  climbed up from his headquarters in the Kunnavan village of Vellagavi to Kodaikanal to survey the area on the hilly ranges of Palani. His report<ref>Ward, Capt. B.S.,  [https://books.google.com/books?id=rBgYAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA280&dq=%22Madras+Journal+of+Literature+and+Science%22+%22vol+vi%22&hl=en&ei=RToBTb6GBcGAlAfb5uytCA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CCUQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=%22Madras%20Journal%20of%20Literature%20and%20Science%22%20%22vol%20vi%22&f=false  ''Memoir of the Vuragherry and Kunnandaven Mountains''], Madras Journal of literature and Science, October 1837, vol. vi. p. 280</ref> of a healthy climate in beautiful hills with accessibility from [[Periyakulam]] encouraged the early settlers.<ref name=KcomA>kodaikanal.org, [http://www.kodaikanal.org/discovery_of_kodaikanal.html Americans in Kodaikanal]</ref>
 
In 1834, Mr. J.C Wroughten, then [[District collector|Sub-Collector]] of [[Madurai|Madura]]  and Mr. C. R. Cotton, a member of the [[Madras Presidency]] — Board of Revenue,<ref>Irrigation and Soil Salinity in the Indian Subcontinent by N. T. Singh [https://books.google.com/books?id=a4RCXuoMotAC&pg=PA75&lpg=PA75&dq=%22C.R.+Cotton%22&source=web&ots=hbiMjTYIJ0&sig=8R-KIGdAOEKrdOYVLX4OHAhmRbE&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=49&ct=result Mr. C. R. Cotton]</ref> climbed up the hills from [[Devadanapatti]]  and built a small bungalow at the head of Adukkam pass near [[Shenbaganur]].
[[File:RobertWight.jpg|thumb|200px|Dr. Robert Wight]]
In 1836, the noted [[botanist]] [[Robert Wight|Dr. Robert Wight]], a [[Fellow]] of the [[Linnean Society of London]], visited Kodaikanal and recorded his observations in the 1937 ''Madras Journal of Literature and Science''.<ref>Wight, Dr., ''Observations on the Pulney Mountains'', Madras Journal, vol. v. p. 280</ref><ref>Mitchell Nora, [https://books.google.com/books?lr=&ei=jSjXSLfECIm6zAShg-XrDg&id=1yZjAAAAIAAJ&dq=%22Mitchell%22+%22Indian+Hill+Station%22&q=Dr+wight+1836&pgis=1  Dr. Wight p. 104]</ref> He collected over 100 plant specimens in 15 days,<ref name=Crossette/> which were useful to later botanists.<ref name=DMA/>
 
In 1845, the first two bungalows, ''Sunny Side'' and ''Shelton'' were built by six families of American missionaries from Madurai with the help of an Englishman, Mr. Fane. In 1852, Father Louis Saint Cyr visited Kodaikanal and returned to the plains after finding only four bungalows; ''Baynes, Parker, Clark'' and ''Parday''.
 
In 1852, Major J. M. Partridge of the Bombay Army built himself a house in Kodai and became the first person to actually settle there. Others soon followed like Fonclair and the coffee planter, Judge Elliot. It was not until Blackburne, the Collector of Madurai, built a home there that the development of Kodai gathered pace.<ref name=Sai/>
 
In 1853, a group of American and British built Kodai's first church building, the [[Anglican]] Church of St. Peter.<ref name=Kcom/>
[[File:Charles Edward Trevelyan.jpg|thumb|200px|Sir Charles Edward Trevelyan, Governor of Madras Presidency,<br />stayed at Kodaikanal in 1860]]
In 1853 only seven houses were there and the number rose to a dozen in 1861.<ref name="The declining Kodai">[http://www.frontline.in/archives.htm The declining Kodai ]  Frontline Magazine pgs 74-81, 26 May – 8 Jun 1989</ref>
 
In 1860, The Governor of Madras Presidency, [[Sir Charles Trevelyan, 1st Baronet|Sir Charles Trevelyan]] visited Kodaikanal and stayed in ''Roseneath Cottage'', which is still occupied. In May 1860, Father Louis Saint Cyr returned with father Rettary and several Frenchmen, Belgians and Europeans,<ref name=DMA/> stayed in ''Baynes bungalow'' and by 29 September had bought that place to use as a rest house for the members of Christ Church. The bungalow was renamed ''La-providence'' in honor a lady with that name who gave Rs.20,000 for reconstruction of the bungalow.  La Salette Church was finished and dedicated in 1866.<ref name=LaSal>kodaikanal.com, [http://www.kodaikanal.com/festivals.htm Kodaikanal — Festivals]</ref>
 
In 1861, [[Douglas Hamilton|Major Douglas Hamilton]] recorded 114 species of birds in Kodaikanal and discovered two new ones-the [[laughing thrush]] and the Kodaikanal [[white-bellied shortwing]].<ref name=Swz>TripsGuru Travel Services – kodaitrips.com, [http://www.kodaitrips.com/ ''Switzerland of the East''], Western Ghats, Tamil Nadu, (2008)</ref>
In 1862, [[The Scudder family of missionaries in India#First generation|David Coit Scudder]] arrived in Kodaikanal. He was an American missionary who had been influenced in boyhood to come to India by [[Rev. Dr. John Scudder, Sr.]] and was in charge of the large and important station of [[Periyakulam]]. He had endeared himself to the Christians of the large village congregations of that station. An enthusiastic young American, upon arrival at Kodai, his emotions overcame him when, as he recalled: <blockquote>I ... seized our United States flag, shouted out "Long may it wave!" ... at the English collector ... and did other uncouth things.</blockquote>
 
On 19 November 1862, David Scudder drowned in the [[Vaigai River]] between [[Andipatti]] and Periyakulam, 20 months after arriving in Tamil Nadu.<ref>John Scudder Family, Vol. I [http://www.scudder.org/soper_manuscript_indices/soper_manuscript_J-index01.pdf John Scudder Family] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060719041631/http://www.scudder.org/soper_manuscript_indices/soper_manuscript_J-index01.pdf |date=19 July 2006 }}</ref><ref>Life and Letters of David Coit Scudder: Missionary in Southern India By David Coit Scudder, Horace Elisha Scudder [https://books.google.com/books?id=yQD3ExORJzAC&dq=david+coit+scudder&printsec=frontcover&source=web&ots=WUTlX2Xqs4&sig=lhJYw8ZecVbsLAe9f5kEDNG9NwQ#PPA1,M1 full text]</ref>  Interment was in the old Anglican Churchyard, at Kodaikanal. The inscription on his headstone is still clearly legible. It reads:<blockquote>D.C.S. Missionary of the [[American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions|A.B.C.F.M.]] In Southern India. Born in Boston, U.S.A. Oct. 27, 1835 Landed at Madras June 26, 1861 Drowned in the Vaigai River Nov. 19, 1862<ref>Purdy Strother, Mondaugen's Law, ''More Gaur and the old Kodai Cemetery'', [http://mondaugenslaw.blogs.com/mondaugenslaw/2007/08/more-gaur-and-t.html D.C.S. headstone photo], August 5, 2007</ref></blockquote>
 
In 1863, acting on a suggestion of Sir Vere Levinge, then collector of Madurai, a lake was formed by blocking a stream. From then on, Kodaikanal has been developing.<ref name="The declining Kodai"/>
 
In 1867, Major J. M. Partridge of Bombay Army imported Australian [[eucalyptus]] and [[acacia|wattle]] trees to Kodaikanal.
 
In 1871, the new governor of Madras, [[Lord Napier]] visited. His bungalow was named ''Napier Villa''.<ref name=Kcom/> These early settlements and visits by important people established Kodai's legitimacy among the Western residents of Tamil Nadu as an accepted alternative to [[Ootacamund]] as a summer retreat.<ref name=KcomA/>
[[File:Kodai Coakers Walk 1900.jpg|thumb|200px|Coakers Walk, 1900]]
In 1872, Lt. Coaker cut a path along the steep south east facing ridge which overlooks the plains below. The 1&nbsp;km (.6&nbsp;mi) path was named after him as Coaker's Walk.<ref name=Kcom/> He is often remembered as "the man who prepared the most exceptional, the most descriptive map of Kodai".<ref>Mike Kielty, Thursday Online, [http://www.tcs.cam.ac.uk/impact/features/the-lost-gardens-of-the-raj/ ''The Lost Gardens of the Raj''] {{webarchive|url=https://archive.today/20120912102131/http://www.tcs.cam.ac.uk/impact/features/the-lost-gardens-of-the-raj/ |date=12 September 2012 }} (2008-3-4)</ref>
[[File:Kurinji Andavar Temple.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Kurinji Andavar ([[Murugan]]) temple built by Lady Ramanathan (R.L.Harrison) of Australia, wife of [[Ponnambalam Ramanathan]]<ref>{{cite news | url=http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-metroplus/honouring-the-kurinji/article7167847.ece | title=Honouring the Kurinji  | date=4 May 2015 | newspaper=The Hindu | accessdate=24 April 2018 }}</ref>]]
In 1879, 75 Europeans came to Kodai for the season. That year ''[[Murray's Handbooks for Travellers]]'' described Kodaikanal as a settlement "of only 10 – 15 small ugly houses".<ref name=Crossette>Crossette, Barbara. Basic Books, [https://books.google.com/books?id=EEBhMxZu7LMC&printsec=frontcover&client=safari searchable preview] ''The Great Hill Stations of Asia'', (1999) {{ISBN|0-465-01488-7}}, {{ISBN|978-0-465-01488-0}}, 268 pages</ref> Later many American and British families visited and decided to remain in the temperate hill station.
 
In 1883, Kodaikanal had 615 permanent residents.  It also became a regular summer retreat for many American missionaries and European diplomats who came here primarily to escape the sweltering summer of the plains.<ref name=DMA>Kodaikanal Department Of Municipal Administration And Water Supply, [http://www.municipality.tn.gov.in/kodaikanal/abcity_Historical%20Moments.htm Historical Moments] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090324043243/http://www.municipality.tn.gov.in/kodaikanal/abcity_Historical%20Moments.htm |date=24 March 2009 }}, 2005</ref> Among them,  [[The Scudder family of missionaries in India#Second generation|William Waterbury Scudder D.D.]] was a missionary who joined the Arcott Mission in 1852, retired in 1894, and was buried at Kodaikanal in 1900.<ref>Narayanan P.R. Krishna (May 1994) ''Relics of the raj — British cemeteries in India'',
Contemporary Review, retrieved 7/19/2007 [http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m2242/is_n1540_v264/ai_16044494/pg_2 British cemeteries in India]</ref>
 
In 1895, the American Madurai Mission built the Union Church building.<ref name=Kcom/>
 
In 1901, the first observations commenced at the [[Kodaikanal Observatory]] .<ref>Indian Institute of Astrophysics – A Brief History, Solar Observatory at Kodaikanal, retrieved 13 March 2007.[http://www.iiap.res.in/centers/kodai]</ref>
 
In 1909, when the ''Guide to Kodaikanal'' was published by E.M.M.L., there were 151 houses, "most of them anything but small and ugly" and a post office, churches, clubs, schools and shops.<ref name=Crossette/>
 
In 1914, the present ghat road was completed and was subsequently improved. In 1989, the total length of the roads on the hills was more than 45&nbsp;km.<ref name="The declining Kodai"/>
 
In April 1915, Dr. Van Allen raised funds to construct the first unit of the hospital at the entrance of Coaker's Walk. It was named after him. Facilities got updated from time to time and now it has an X-ray machine, well equipped pathological lab, and an operation theatre with blood transfusion facilities.[[File:Ida S Scudder.jpg|thumb|200px|Dr. Ida S. Scudder with Mahatma Gandhi, 1928]] Government Hospital was a small municipal hospital until 1927. Now it has X-ray, dental, a maternity ward and other facilities.<ref>kodaikanal.com, [http://www.kodaikanal.com/hospital.htm Kodaikanal — Hospitals]</ref>
 
[[Ida S. Scudder|Dr. Ida S. Scudder]] had her bungalow at ''Hilltop'',  at Kodaikanal. She had founded  [[Vellore Christian Medical College]] and its hospital.<ref>[http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,817967,00.html?promoid=googlep Time Magazine (16 Feb. 1953) A Family Tradition]</ref> She died on 24 May 1960 at age 90, of a circulatory ailment, in Kodaikanal.<ref>biographical information on ISS and the Scudder family, see the inventory for Ida Sophia Scudder, MC 205,Scudder, Ida Sophia, 1870–1960. Papers, 1843–1976 (inclusive), 1888–1960 (bulk) (84-M159) Arthur and Elizabeth Schlesinger Library on the History of Women in America, Radcliffe College, February 1985 [https://archive.today/20120214084532/http://oasis.harvard.edu:10080/oasis/deliver/~sch00898 Ida Scudder papers]</ref><ref>Notable American Women, The Modern Period (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1984).</ref>
 
==Ghat road==
Travellers going to Kodaikanal starting their journey at Ammaianayakkanur village travelled {{convert|50|km|mi|sp=us}} in 12 to 14 hours by [[bullock cart]] up to Krishnamma Nayak Thope. From there, the {{convert|18|km|mi|sp=us}} journey to Kodaikanal was undertaken by foot, horse, or [[palanquin]]s with hired [[coolie]]s.
[[File:Kodai, Palaquin.jpg|thumb|200px|An improvised palanquin, called a ''dholie'']]
In 1854, an improved {{convert|16|km|mi|sp=us}} bridle path was built from Krishnamma Nayak Thope. In 1875, the Indian Railways extended its line from [[Chennai]] to [[Tirunelveli]] and a train station named [[Kodaikanal Road railway station|Kodaikanal Road]] was built near Ammaianayakkanur village, to facilitate visits to Kodaikanal.<ref name=DMA/>
 
Many started at [[Dindigul]] and began their climb to Kodai from [[Periyakulam]]. In 1862, Clements Robert Markham described his journey:
 
<blockquote>Dindigul is about forty miles from the foot of the ghaut leading up to the Pulney hills, and relays of bullocks were posted for me every seven miles, with a man running in front of the cart with a blazing torch.
 
Passing through the village of Periacolum, round which there are many large tanks and extensive rice cultivation, we reached the jungle at the foot of the Pulney hills at early dawn. The path, which is only practicable for ponies and pack-bullocks, leads up a ravine for half the distance, and then corkscrews up the steep sides of the mountain. The range looks very imposing from the plain...
 
After resting under a clump of trees I commenced the ascent on foot, driving an unhappy sheep before me, which was to be sacrificed on the summit, where, at this time of the year (end of November and beginning of December), there are no residents, no market, and no means of procuring any supplies. The ascent is exceedingly beautiful, ...
 
At 6000 feet the steep ascent is covered with long grass, and trees are confined to sheltered hollows and ravines. After reaching the plateau it is necessary to scale a second steep grassy slope before arriving at the settlement of Kodakarnal, which is 7230 feet above the level of the sea.
 
Kodakarnal consists of eight houses, built along the crests of undulating hills, and one of the inner slopes is clothed with a wood of fine trees and tree-ferns, from which the Tamil people have named the settlement.<ref name= Mark>Markham, Clements Robert. [https://archive.org/details/travelsinperuan00markgoog/page/n450 <!-- pg=406 quote=Robert Wight, sispara. --> ''Travels in Peru and India, while superintending the collection of chinchona plants and seeds in South America, and their introduction into India''], (1862) pp 400-401, Original from Oxford University, Digitized June 13, 2006. also: ([https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.22706 Original from Harvard University]) [[OCLC]] :2104708 Digitized June 10, 2008, 572 pages. (Table of contents & 3 full view links)</ref></blockquote>
 
By 1878, the path from Tope was extended and later completed up to Kodaikanal.<ref name=DMA/>
[[File:Laws ghat road.jpg|thumb|200px|Laws ghat road in the early 1900s]]
Engineer Major G. C. Law was deputed to study and submit a plan to build a moterable road to the hills. The road was finally completed in 1914 and opened for public traffic in 1916. Public buses started using the road in 1916.<ref name=Kcom>kodaikanal.com [http://www.kodaikanal.com/history.htm Kodaikanal — History]</ref> This old horse [[trail]] is now a {{convert|7.5|m|ft|sp=us}} wide two-lane [[Asphalt paving|asphalt paved roadway]] rising {{convert|1863|m|ft|sp=us}} with only 2 [[hairpin turn]]s. It is always well maintained.<ref>Shiva, Kodai Hills, Impressions and reflections, [http://in/kodaihills.blogspot.com/2006_01_01_archive.html Roads to Kodai]{{dead link|date=November 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }} (2006-1-22)</ref>
 
The State Highway Department has designated this road as [[SH-156 (Tamil Nadu, India)|SH-156]], ''Kodai [[Ghat Roads|Ghat Road]]'', with a length of {{convert|52.4|km|mi|sp=us}}. It begins at {{coord|10|9|10|N|77|41|30|E|}} on the [[Grand Southern Trunk Road]] (NH-45), about {{convert|8|km|mi|sp=us}} west of [[Batlagundu]].
 
Also, during [[World War II]], the [[Kodaikanal–Munnar Road]], an evacuation road from Kodai along the hillcrest to [[Top Station]] and [[Munnar]], then down to [[Kozhikode|Calicut]] was built by the British because of fear of the Japanese invading India.<ref name=Sai>G.Venkataraman,Radio Sai, Volume 4 – Issue 07, [http://media.radiosai.org/Journals/Vol_04/01JUL06/kodai.htm ''Kodai, Some History And Geography''] (July 2006)</ref>
 
==Train==
The Kodaikanal-Gudalur Railway line was under the contemplation of the Government from 1889 when the Madras and Travancore Governments made an agreement regarding the waters of the Periyar river In 1895 a survey was made In 1897 after the completion of the Periyar dam, the Government granted permission to the then Wilson and Company, Madras to construct a light railway from Kodaikanal railway station, then Ammaayanaickanur railway station, which lies between Dindigul and Madhurai railway stations, to Gudalur within two years The company failed in floating the capital wanted within the period allotted and thus the permission granted automatically expired. Then the Government made several surveys till 1920 After the close of the First World War, the Government sanction, ed in 1920 this line under the postwar reconstruction scheme and directed the District Board, Madurai to intimate to the Government within two years whether it was willing to take UP this work, as the then South Indian Railway Company and the two planters of the Kannan Devan Hills were willing to undertake the work. In 1922 the district board of Madurai intiiP&ted the Government to cancel the sanction of the Kodaikanal road- Gudalur railway line and requested sanction for the construction of Madurai-Bodinayakanur line Accordingly. <ref>https://eparlib.nic.in/.../1656/1/lsd_02_07_02-03-1959.pdf page 112 </ref>
 
==Kodaikanal lake==
[[File:Kodai,old-lake.jpg|thumb|200px|Old Kodaikanal Lake]]
{{Main|Kodaikanal Lake}}
 
In 1863, Kodaikanal Lake was created by Sir Vere Hendry Levinge, who was then the [[District collector|Collector]] of [[Madurai District]], by damming three streams flowing into a valley. He stocked the lake with local fish and brought Kodai's first boat from [[Tuticorin]].  He lived in ''Pambar House'' after his retirement.<ref name=Kcom/> Pictures taken in Kodaikanal during the early years of its settlement show the area around the lake with very few trees and a marshy landscape. The man-made lake then had no bunds.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://citypatriots.com/asia/india/tamil-nadu/kodaikanal/kodaikanal-lake |title=Archived copy |access-date=31 May 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160307004645/http://citypatriots.com/asia/india/tamil-nadu/kodaikanal/kodaikanal-lake |archive-date=7 March 2016 |url-status=dead |df=dmy-all }}</ref>
 
In 1890, the [[Kodaikanal Boat Club]] was formed. Today there are three boat clubs with a variety of boats available for hire. There is now an excellent {{convert|9|km|mi|sp=us}} lighted and paved sidewalk and bicycle path around the lake.  There are strict municipal laws against construction near the lake.
<!--A gallery of antique photos of Kodaikanal during its foundation are displayed in Hotel JC Residency.  This line can be removed if found to be only of the specific hotel. Can someone in Kodai please check this and ideally get copies? -->
 
==20th century==
In 1901 Kodaikanal had a population of 1,912.<ref>{{cite book|title=Madras : The Southern and west coast districts, native states, and French possessions.|publisher= Superintendent of Government Printing|location=Calcutta|edition=Original from Harvard Digitized 12 Jul 2005|volume=v.2|pages=item notes }} p.232</ref>
In the 20th century a few elite Indians came to realize the value of this enchanting hill station and started relocating here.<ref name="TDC"/> Amongst the current Indian locals, there are often discussions about how their ancestors trekked and climbed the hills, from the villages in the foothills. It sometimes took them up to two full days to scale the steep valleys, braving attacks from humans and eventually reaching the summit of what is now Kodaikanal market, to sell their produce from the plains.
 
==Notes==
{{Reflist}}
 
==External sources==
*Crossette, Barbara. Basic Books, [https://books.google.com/books?id=EEBhMxZu7LMC&printsec=frontcover&client=safari searchable preview] ''The Great Hill Stations of Asia'', (1999) {{ISBN|0-465-01488-7}}, {{ISBN|978-0-465-01488-0}}, 268 pages*kodaikanal.org, [http://www.kodaikanal.org/kodaikanal_history.html Kodaikanal History] Goes back to 5,000 BCE, interesting but unreferenced.
*Maloney Clarence, [https://www.jstor.org/pss/2943246 ''The Beginnings of Civilization in South India''], The Journal of Asian Studies, Vol. 29, No. 3 (May 1970), pp.&nbsp;603–616  (article consists of 14 pages), Published by: [[Association for Asian Studies]].
 
{{DEFAULTSORT:History Of Kodaikanal}}
[[Category:Kodaikanal|K]]
[[Category:History of Tamil Nadu]]
[[Category:Tamil history|*]]
[[Category:Histories of cities in India|Kodaikanal]]

Latest revision as of 12:28, 27 December 2023

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