Bharatpedia

Kolhapuri chappal: Difference between revisions

Article Talk

Kolhapuri chappal (edit)

Revision as of 05:06, 12 May 2022

3,717 bytes added ,  12 May 2022
m
robot: Update article (please report if you notice any mistake or error in this edit)
->Korakari
mNo edit summary
 
m (robot: Update article (please report if you notice any mistake or error in this edit))
 
Line 2: Line 2:
{{Use dmy dates|date=June 2018}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=June 2018}}
{{Use Indian English|date=June 2018}}
{{Use Indian English|date=June 2018}}
{{More citations needed|date=June 2016}}


[[File:Kolhapur chappal.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Kolhapuri chappal]]
[[File:Kolhapur chappal.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Kolhapuri chappal]]
'''Kolhapuri chappals''' are [[India]]n hand-crafted leather [[slipper]]s that are locally tanned using [[vegetable dye]]s. Kolhapuri Chappals or '''Kolhapuris''' as they are commonly referred to are a style of open-toed, T-strap [[sandal]].  
'''Kolhapuri chappals''' are [[India]]n decorative hand-crafted and braided leather [[slipper]]s that are locally tanned using [[vegetable dye]]s. Kolhapuri Chappals or '''Kolhapuris''' as they are commonly referred to are a style of open-toed, T-strap [[sandal]], but also braided leather [[Mule (footwear)|Mules]] or braided leather [[shoe]] type designs are also common.  


In July 2019 Kolhapuri chappals got a [[geographical indication]] tag from the [[Controller General of Patents, Designs & Trade Marks]]. These chappals were first made in [[Kolhapur district|Kolhapur]] so it has the name, but now there is a wrong perception that only artisans from [[Maharashtra]] are involved in making these chappals. Artisans from [[Karnataka]] are also involved in making Kolhapuri chappals for centuries. Districts such as [[Bagalkot]], [[Belagavi district|Belagavi]], [[Dharwad district|Dharwad]] and [[Bijapur district, Karnataka|Bijapur district]] of [[Karnataka]] as well as [[Kolhapur district|Kolhapur]], [[Sangli district|Sangli]], [[Satara district|Satara]] and [[Solapur district|Solapur]] districts of [[Maharashtra]] will only be able to carry the tag of "Kolhapuri chappal".<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/politics-and-nation/kolhapuris-the-famous-leather-chappal-get-geographical-indication-tag/geographical-indication-tag/slideshow/69855278.cms|title=Kolhapuris: The famous leather chappal get Geographical Indication tag - Geographical Indication tag|date=19 July 2019|website=The Economic Times|access-date=2019-07-21}}</ref><ref name=toi>{{cite news |last1=Patil |first1=Abhijeet|date=21 June 2019|title=Kolhapuri chappal gets GI tag after decade-long wait|url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/kolhapur/kolhapuri-chappal-gets-gi-tag-after-decade-long-wait/articleshow/69885776.cms |access-date=25 December 2019 |work=The Times of India |language=en}}</ref>
==History==
<ref name=newindianexpress>{{cite news |title=Namma Kolhapuri chappal gets GI boost |url=https://www.newindianexpress.com/cities/bengaluru/2019/jun/19/namma-kolhapuri-chappal-gets-gi-boost-1992139.html |access-date=25 December 2019 |work=The New Indian Express}}</ref>
The origin of Kolhapuri Chappals dates back to 12th century when the King [[Bijjala II|Bijjala ]] and his prime minister [[Basavanna]] encouraged Kolhapuri Chappal production to support local cobblers. According to historic records, Kolhapuris were first worn as early as the 13th century. Previously known as Kapashi, Paytaan, Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, and Pukri, the name indicated the village where they were made.<ref>{{Cite web | url=http://www.indianmirror.com/culture/indian-specialties/kolhapurifootwear.html | title=History of Kolhapuri Footwear | work=Indian Mirror | access-date=1 February 2017 | archive-date=2 February 2017 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170202145727/http://www.indianmirror.com/culture/indian-specialties/kolhapurifootwear.html | url-status=live }}</ref>
 
[[Shahu I]] of Kolhapur (and his successor [[Rajaram III]]) encouraged Kolhapuri Chappal industry and 29 tanning centres were opened during his rule.<ref name="economictimes"/><ref name="Chappal therapy">{{cite news |last1=Dore |first1=Bhavya |title=Chappal therapy |url=https://bangaloremirror.indiatimes.com/opinion/sunday-read/chappal-therapy/articleshow/69909706.cms |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[Bangalore Mirror]] |date=June 23, 2019 |language=en |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222222938/https://bangaloremirror.indiatimes.com/opinion/sunday-read/chappal-therapy/articleshow/69909706.cms |url-status=live }}</ref>
 
=== GIS tag===
In July 2019 Kolhapuri chappals got a [[geographical indication]] tag from the [[Controller General of Patents, Designs & Trade Marks]]. These chappals were first made in [[Kolhapur district|Kolhapur]] but artisans from [[Karnataka]] are also involved in making Kolhapuri chappals for centuries. Districts such as [[Kolhapur district|Kolhapur]], [[Sangli district|Sangli]], [[Satara district|Satara]] and [[Solapur district|Solapur]] districts of [[Maharashtra]] as well as [[Bagalkot]], [[Belgaon]], [[Dharwad district|Dharwad]] and [[Bijapur district, Karnataka|Bijapur district]] of [[Karnataka]] will only be able to carry the tag of "Kolhapuri chappal".<ref name="economictimes">{{Cite web|url=https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/politics-and-nation/kolhapuris-the-famous-leather-chappal-get-geographical-indication-tag/geographical-indication-tag/slideshow/69855278.cms|title=Kolhapuris: The famous leather chappal get Geographical Indication tag - Geographical Indication tag|date=19 July 2019|website=The Economic Times|access-date=2019-07-21|archive-date=21 July 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190721114230/https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/politics-and-nation/kolhapuris-the-famous-leather-chappal-get-geographical-indication-tag/geographical-indication-tag/slideshow/69855278.cms|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name=toi>{{cite news |last1=Patil |first1=Abhijeet |date=21 June 2019 |title=Kolhapuri chappal gets GI tag after decade-long wait |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/kolhapur/kolhapuri-chappal-gets-gi-tag-after-decade-long-wait/articleshow/69885776.cms |access-date=25 December 2019 |work=The Times of India |language=en |archive-date=5 January 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200105013906/https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/kolhapur/Kolhapuri-chappal-gets-GI-tag-after-decade-long-wait/articleshow/69885776.cms |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name=newindianexpress>{{cite news |title=Namma Kolhapuri chappal gets GI boost |url=https://www.newindianexpress.com/cities/bengaluru/2019/jun/19/namma-kolhapuri-chappal-gets-gi-boost-1992139.html |access-date=25 December 2019 |work=The New Indian Express |archive-date=25 December 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191225193540/https://www.newindianexpress.com/cities/bengaluru/2019/jun/19/namma-kolhapuri-chappal-gets-gi-boost-1992139.html |url-status=live }}</ref>


==History==
==Production process & market==
The origin of Kolhapuri Chappals dates back to 12th century when the King [[Bijjala II|Bijjala ]] and his prime minister [[Basavanna]] encouraged Kolhapuri Chappal production so as to uplift the cobbler community. According to historic records, Kolhapuris were first worn as early as the 13th century. Previously known as Kapashi, Paytaan, Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, and Pukri, the name indicated the village where they were made.<ref>{{Cite web | url=http://www.indianmirror.com/culture/indian-specialties/kolhapurifootwear.html |title = History of Kolhapuri Footwear-Indianmirror}}</ref>
[[File:Kolhapuri foot wear in Hyderabad, India.jpg|thumb|260x260px|Kolhapuri foot wear in Hyderabad.]]
It can take up to six weeks to make a pair of Kolhapuris.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.chappals.co.uk/kolhapuri/ |title=Archived copy |access-date=28 June 2016 |archive-date=7 July 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160707063147/http://www.chappals.co.uk/kolhapuri/ |url-status=live }}</ref> Originally made from [[American bison|buffalo]]-hide and thread, they weighed as much as 2.01 kilos because of the thickness of the sole, which made them durable despite the extreme heat and mountainous terrain found in the state of [[Maharashtra]].<ref>{{cite news |last1=Sangam |first1=Sowmya |title=Cool Kolhapuris popular as ever in Hyderabad |url=https://telanganatoday.com/cool-kolhapuris-popular-as-ever-in-hyderabad |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[Telangana Today]] |date=29 January 2021 |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221445/https://telanganatoday.com/cool-kolhapuris-popular-as-ever-in-hyderabad |url-status=live }}</ref>


==Production process==
For making Kolhapuri Chappal various operations are done step by step like skiving, pattern making and cutting, attachment of upper and bottom heels, stitching, finishing, punching and Trimming, decoration and Polishing, and assembling.{{cn|date=December 2021}} Kolhapuri chappals are known to last a lifetime if maintained well and not used in rainy seasons.
It can take up to six weeks to make a pair of Kolhapuris.<ref>http://www.chappals.co.uk/kolhapuri/</ref> Originally made from [[American bison|buffalo]]-hide and thread, they weighed as much as 2.01 kilos because of the thickness of the sole, which made them durable despite the extreme heat and mountainous terrain found in the state of [[Maharashtra]].


For making Kolhapuri Chappal various operations are done step by step like:-
In 2020, the total business market was estimated at around {{INR}}9 [[crore]], with over 10,000 artisans working in Kolhapur. Of the total six [[lakh]] pairs produced annually, 30% were exported.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Gayakwad |first1=Rahul |title=Kolhapuri chappal artisans stare at uncertain future |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/kolhapur/kolhapuri-chappal-artisans-stare-at-uncertain-future/articleshow/76507529.cms |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[The Times of India]] |date=June 22, 2020 |language=en |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221435/https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/kolhapur/kolhapuri-chappal-artisans-stare-at-uncertain-future/articleshow/76507529.cms |url-status=live }}</ref> The designs have moved from the ethnic to ones with more utilitarian value and materials from primal hard materials to softer and more comfortable to wear materials. The artisans themselves designed ethnic patterns and sold, but today the traders and businessmen with demand for cheap products drive the requirement of minimalist designs.{{cn|date=December 2021}}


* Skiving
In recent decades, the business has struggled for survival with market decline, low profits, irregular leather supply, duplicates & fakes, environmental regulations on tanneries, cow slaughter ban, among other issues.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Sriram |first1=Jayant |title=The last original Kolhapuris |url=https://www.thehindu.com/society/the-last-original-kolhapuris/article19231770.ece |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[The Hindu]] |date=8 July 2017 |language=en-IN |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221435/https://www.thehindu.com/society/the-last-original-kolhapuris/article19231770.ece |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |title=Fading footprint of Kolhapuri chappals |url=https://retail.economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/apparel-fashion/footwear/fading-footprint-of-kolhapuri-chappals/50801418 |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=ETRetail.com |date=February 1, 2016 |language=en |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221439/https://retail.economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/apparel-fashion/footwear/fading-footprint-of-kolhapuri-chappals/50801418 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last1=Gokhale |first2=Parth |last2=Welankar |first1=Pratham |title=Iconic Kolhapuri chappals in a fight for survival |url=https://www.hindustantimes.com/mumbai-news/iconic-kolhapuri-chappals-in-a-fight-for-survival/story-OBvTgxmegJ0X0qobb1NQLL.html |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[Hindustan Times]] |date=27 April 2019 |language=en |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221435/https://www.hindustantimes.com/mumbai-news/iconic-kolhapuri-chappals-in-a-fight-for-survival/story-OBvTgxmegJ0X0qobb1NQLL.html |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last1=Nair |first1=Remya |title=Sindoor to papad, lungis to Kolhapuri chappals, it's all made in China today |url=https://theprint.in/economy/sindoor-to-papad-lungis-to-kolhapuri-chappals-its-all-made-in-china-today/217252/ |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[ThePrint]] |date=8 April 2019 |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221435/https://theprint.in/economy/sindoor-to-papad-lungis-to-kolhapuri-chappals-its-all-made-in-china-today/217252/ |url-status=live }}</ref>
* Pattern making and cutting
* Attachment of upper and bottom heels.
* Stitching
* Finishing
* Punching and Trimming
* Decoration and Polishing
* Assembling


== Design and durability ==
== Design & market trends==
The designs have moved from the ethnic to ones with more utilitarian value and materials from primal hard materials to softer and more comfortable to wear materials. The artisans themselves designed ethnic patterns and sold, but today the traders and businessmen with demand for cheap products drive the requirement of minimalist designs.


Kolhapuri chappals are known to last a lifetime if maintained well and not used in rainy seasons.
In the seventies, with the [[Hippie]] movement Kolhapuri chappals became a very popular footwear in the [[United States]]. The success faded out and recently came back influencing now models that are called [[toe ring]] sandals.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Paitandy |first1=Priyadarshini |title=Can your footwear be vegan too? |url=https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/luxury/can-your-footwear-be-vegan-too/article28422709.ece |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[The Hindu]] |date=13 July 2019 |language=en-IN |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221435/https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/luxury/can-your-footwear-be-vegan-too/article28422709.ece |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last1=Kulkarni |first1=Dhaval |title=Kolhapuris to get a French accent |url=https://www.dnaindia.com/mumbai/report-kolhapuris-to-get-a-french-accent-2540934 |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[DNA India]] |date=August 27, 2017 |language=en |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221435/https://www.dnaindia.com/mumbai/report-kolhapuris-to-get-a-french-accent-2540934 |url-status=live }}</ref>
[[File:Kolhapuri foot wear in Hyderabad, India.jpg|thumb|260x260px|Kolhapuri foot wear in Hyderabad]]
In the seventies, with the [[Hippie]] movement Kolhapuri chappals became a very popular footwear in the [[United States]]. The success faded out and recently came back influencing now models that are called [[toe ring]] sandals.
<!--== Business trend ==
The business of [https://kolhapurichappal.co.in/?v=c86ee0d9d7ed Kolhapuri Chappals]<ref>{{Cite web | url=https://www.bestofplace.com/stylish-traditional-heat-absorbent-kolhapuri-chappal/ | title=Stylish, traditional, Original, Heat absorbent, Kolhapuri Chappal, Paytaan, Pukari, Kapashi, leather footwear, original| date=18 April 2017}}</ref> is seen by most as an obsolete trend. The artisan families making [https://vhaan.com Kolhapuri Chappals]<ref>{{Cite web | url=https://vhaan.com |title = Kolhapuri Chappal by Vhaan}}</ref> from generations are moving to new business options as they are unable to meet the needs of the current generations. There is a small, traditional business like [https://kolhapurichappal.co.in/?v=c86ee0d9d7ed Korakari],<ref>{{Cite web | url=https://kolhapurichappal.co.in/kolhapuri-chappals/?v=c86ee0d9d7ed |title = Kolhapuri Chappals}}</ref> which passed on the knowledge of making these leather sandals from generation to generation, continuing, even in present days, to handcraft durable and beautiful kolhapuri chappals. Kolhapuri Chappal is becoming a brand. [https://kolhapurichappal.co.in/?v=c86ee0d9d7ed Online platforms] like SHOPKOP.IN (Shopkop is an online platform for the exclusive handmade kolhapuri chappals and all the handcrafted sections mainly authentic and made by genuine artists. Like kolhapuri spices, jewellery, bamboo crafts, blankets (घोंगडी), sculpture etc.),  Korakari provides evolution in designs of traditional kolhapuri chappals. Kolhapuri Chappals require a continuous supply of quality leather and a change in the legal environment has acted as a catalyst towards the end of this age old art.
Although a new trend has been seen to resurface where e-commerce and social entrepreneurship are trying to revive this rare leather art-form. NGOs and websites like  [https://vhaan.com Vhaan Ethnic Craft]<ref>{{Cite web | url=https://vhaan.com |title = Kolhapuri Chappal by Vhaan}}</ref> are tracking dwindling numbers of craftsmen in the Kolhapur region in Maharashtra and are helping them sell their craft to the world via [https://vhaan.in online shopping portals dedicated] to Kolhapuris. [https://www.kolhapurimandai.com/ Kolhapurimandai]<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.kolhapurimandai.com/|title=Kolhapurimandai}}</ref> is an authentic [https://www.kolhapurimandai.com/ eCommerce] portal which sells pure and genuine leather handmade [https://www.kolhapurimandai.com/product-category/chappals/ Kolhapuri Chappal] which are made to order. Strictly used cruelty free leather only. -->


==References==
==References==
Retrieved from "https://en.bharatpedia.org/wiki/Special:MobileDiff/330835"