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'''Angarkha''' or '''Angi''', refers to the most common upper body garment with a usual asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to | '''Angarkha''' or '''Angi''', refers to the most common upper body garment with a usual asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to | ||
the knees, knotted or secured traditionally by strings worn by men in the [[Indian subcontinent]], especially before the introduction of the '[[Kurta]]'. Its various forms exist mostly throughout Northern [[South Asia]]. Angarkha was predominant in various parts of the [[Indian subcontinent]], but while the basic cut remained the same, the style and length varied from region to region.<ref> | the knees, knotted or secured traditionally by strings worn by men in the [[Indian subcontinent]], especially before the introduction of the '[[Kurta]]'. Its various forms exist mostly throughout Northern [[South Asia]]. Angarkha was predominant in various parts of the [[Indian subcontinent]], but while the basic cut remained the same, the style and length varied from region to region.<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=qYK1AAAAIAAJ&q=angarkha&dq=angarkha&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CC0Q6AEwAWoVChMI9PzF2_jdxgIV6QfbCh0zwArh Kumar, Ritu (2006) Costumes and textiles of royal India]</ref> Angarakhas are of the waist-length and knee-length reaching below the knees, both of which can be flared so to appear as either a waist or knee-length frock. | ||
In the 21st century, modern and simpler designs are usually a casual or semi-casual upper garment for both the genders. The [[Achkan]] and [[Sherwani]] are the descendants of Angarkha. | In the 21st century, modern and simpler designs are usually a casual or semi-casual upper garment for both the genders. The [[Achkan]] and [[Sherwani]] are the descendants of Angarkha. | ||
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* Mirjai (Bihar), is a modified form of the flowing robe (known as the jama) fastened on the right. The Mirjai is an under jacket with long loose sleeves and open cuffs.<ref>Winer, Lise (2009) Dictionary of the English/Creole of Trinidad & Tobago: On Historical Principles [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=_n82hsbDJBMC&pg=PA504&dq=punjabi+kurta+bihar&hl=en&sa=X&ei=WjV3VazaGYPsUtWagOgE&ved=0CFEQ6AEwBQ#v=onepage&q=mirjai&f=false]</ref> fastened on the right.<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=iftaR6DVxIAC&pg=PA51&dq=bihar+dress&hl=en&sa=X&ei=izl3VdSwFceAUazQg5AP&ved=0CDMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=bihar%20dress&f=false O`malley, L.S.S. (1924) Bihar And Orissa Gazetteers Shahabad]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=IvUZAAAAIAAJ&q=mirjai+bihari+kurta&dq=mirjai+bihari+kurta&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CEcQ6AEwCGoVChMIq-2oztqHxgIVzL4UCh2zaQCE The Eastern Anthropologist, Volumes 27-28 (1974)]</ref> | * Mirjai (Bihar), is a modified form of the flowing robe (known as the jama) fastened on the right. The Mirjai is an under jacket with long loose sleeves and open cuffs.<ref>Winer, Lise (2009) Dictionary of the English/Creole of Trinidad & Tobago: On Historical Principles [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=_n82hsbDJBMC&pg=PA504&dq=punjabi+kurta+bihar&hl=en&sa=X&ei=WjV3VazaGYPsUtWagOgE&ved=0CFEQ6AEwBQ#v=onepage&q=mirjai&f=false]</ref> fastened on the right.<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=iftaR6DVxIAC&pg=PA51&dq=bihar+dress&hl=en&sa=X&ei=izl3VdSwFceAUazQg5AP&ved=0CDMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=bihar%20dress&f=false O`malley, L.S.S. (1924) Bihar And Orissa Gazetteers Shahabad]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=IvUZAAAAIAAJ&q=mirjai+bihari+kurta&dq=mirjai+bihari+kurta&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CEcQ6AEwCGoVChMIq-2oztqHxgIVzL4UCh2zaQCE The Eastern Anthropologist, Volumes 27-28 (1974)]</ref> | ||
* Kamari (Gujarat and Rajathan) | * Kamari (Gujarat and Rajathan) | ||
* Anga or Peshwaj, the female version of which flowed to the ankles and male version to the knees; it is fastened with a flap to the side and is worn with a front opening kurta. A commonality in [[Punjab]], [[Haryana]] and [[Himachal Pradesh|Himachal]].<ref> | * Anga or Peshwaj, the female version of which flowed to the ankles and male version to the knees; it is fastened with a flap to the side and is worn with a front opening kurta. A commonality in [[Punjab]], [[Haryana]] and [[Himachal Pradesh|Himachal]].<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=0FigAAAAMAAJ&dq=punjab+angarkha&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=+angarkha Kumar Suresh Singh, V. Bhalla, Swaran Singh (1997) Chandigarh]</ref> it is a loose tunic<ref>Punjab District Gazetteers: Ibbetson series, 1883-1884]. [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=D-Q2AQAAMAAJ&q=punjabi+angrakha&dq=punjabi+angrakha&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CDEQ6AEwAWoVChMIzoyhgPzixgIVJoHbCh0FCg5X]</ref> that falls to below the knees,<ref>Punjab gazetteers, 1883, bound in 10 vols., without title-leaves (1883) [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=YacIAAAAQAAJ&q=punjabi+angarkha&dq=punjabi+angarkha&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CDQQ6AEwAWoVChMIzYm42v3ixgIVg2fbCh3AIQhs]</ref> is fastened with a flap to the side and is worn with a front opening kurta.<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Gug2AQAAMAAJ&q=punjab+angarkha+front+opening&dq=punjab+angarkha+front+opening&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CC8Q6AEwAmoVChMI7LLkrNfmxgIV6GvbCh0onQon Punjab District Gazetteers Karnal 1919]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Vf4InPH0STQC&q=peshwaj+known+as+anga&dq=peshwaj+known+as+anga&hl=en&sa=X&ei=I_xzVc64AoblUoiPgLAB&ved=0CCIQ6AEwAA Rajaram Narayan Saletore (1974) Sex Life Under Indian Rulers]</ref><ref>Panjab University Research Bulletin: Arts, Volume 13, Issue 1 - Volume 14, Issue 1 (1982) [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=nvE7AQAAIAAJ&q=peshwaj+known+as+anga&dq=peshwaj+known+as+anga&hl=en&sa=X&ei=I_xzVc64AoblUoiPgLAB&ved=0CCwQ6AEwAg]</ref> and peshwaj)<ref>B. N. Goswamy, Kalyan Krishna, Tarla P. Dundh (1993) Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles, Volume 5 [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=1IHWAAAAMAAJ&q=west+india+peshwaj+is+known+as+anga&dq=west+india+peshwaj+is+known+as+anga&hl=en&sa=X&ei=7AB0VfemDMKnU_u0gMgG&ved=0CCYQ6AEwAQ]</ref> | ||
* Chamba (Himachal), is sewn tight at the torso, but below the waist it has an open fall like the modern skirt. It is tied at the waist with a sash.<ref>Kamal Prashad Sharma, Surinder Mohan Sethi (1997) Costumes and Ornaments of Chamba[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=TQwKtSFn9FMC&pg=PA77&dq=angarkha&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CDwQ6AEwBGoVChMI9PzF2_jdxgIV6QfbCh0zwArh#v=onepage&q=angarkha&f=false]</ref> | * Chamba (Himachal), is sewn tight at the torso, but below the waist it has an open fall like the modern skirt. It is tied at the waist with a sash.<ref>Kamal Prashad Sharma, Surinder Mohan Sethi (1997) Costumes and Ornaments of Chamba [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=TQwKtSFn9FMC&pg=PA77&dq=angarkha&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CDwQ6AEwBGoVChMI9PzF2_jdxgIV6QfbCh0zwArh#v=onepage&q=angarkha&f=false]</ref> | ||
* Kalidar (Uttarakhand)<ref> | * Kalidar (Uttarakhand)<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=-kAbAAAAIAAJ&q=kalidar+mens+kurta&dq=kalidar+mens+kurta&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CFQQ6AEwBmoVChMIzND6j76bxwIVZILbCh2x-QSD Uttar Pradesh District Gazetteers: Uttarkashi 1979]</ref> | ||
* Angerkho (Sindh) [[File:A watercolor portrait of Ranjit Singh.jpg|thumb|Anga, A knee-length unflared Angarkha]] | * Angerkho (Sindh) [[File:A watercolor portrait of Ranjit Singh.jpg|thumb|Anga, A knee-length unflared Angarkha]] | ||
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===Saluka=== | ===Saluka=== | ||
A short sleeve cotton shirt, without a collar,<ref> | A short sleeve cotton shirt, without a collar,<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=gj0u3Cmpp2AC&pg=PA193&lpg=PA193&dq=saluka+shirt&source=bl&ots=tTy_KoeD6-&sig=E_ClOdWX0WNzglV89g5imjRV5Bc&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCkQ6AEwAWoVChMIx8e017XxxgIVyW0UCh0XhwSO#v=onepage&q=saluka%20shirt&f=false Sameera Maiti (2004) The Tharu: Their Arts and Crafts]</ref> to the waist (called saluka<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=C3MbAAAAIAAJ&q=saluka+uttar+pradesh&dq=saluka+uttar+pradesh&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CC4Q6AEwAWoVChMIjdr_i-eExgIVyGkUCh1SiAA0 Uttar Pradesh District Gazetteers: Deoria (1998)]</ref> or ganji)<ref>Singh, K. S. Anthropological Survey of India (2005) Uttar Pradesh, Volume 1 [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=-kduAAAAMAAJ&dq=ganji+dress+uttar+pradesh&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=ganji+]</ref> is traditionally worn in [[Uttar Pradesh]].<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=xPUcAQAAMAAJ&q=uttar+pradesh+style+kurta&dq=uttar+pradesh+style+kurta&hl=en&sa=X&ei=z0B3VYadOYG4UMb9g6AN&ved=0CEUQ6AEwBA Census of India, 1961: Uttar Pradesh]</ref> The saluka is also traditionally worn in [[Madhya Pradesh]].<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Qo1hAAAAIAAJ&q=saluka+madhya+pradesh&dq=saluka+madhya+pradesh&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCAQ6AEwAGoVChMI38iI-qmIxgIVgboUCh0XUACB Madhya Pradesh: district gazetteers, Volume 31 (1994)]</ref> | ||
===Cholo=== | ===Cholo=== | ||
The female [[Sindh | The female [[Sindh]]i cholo<ref>I am a Sindhi: The Glorious Sindhi Heritage and Culture and Folklore of Sindh J P Vaswami</ref><ref>Sindh and The Races That Inhabit the Valley of the Indus Richard F Burton</ref> is loose fitting,<ref>Askari, Nasreen and Crill, Rosemary Colours of the Indus: Costume and Textiles of Pakistan (1997) [https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=bAaNVYzXOMKBUfLJgeAE&id=jWRQAAAAMAAJ&dq=balochistan+kameez+front+opening&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=cholo]</ref> and is made in a variety of ways, including the traditional method of the cholo opening at the front to the waist,<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=N1prVZrxC6XjsASr2YDoDw&id=2-0IAQAAIAAJ&dq=sindhi+cholo&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=+cholo Perspective, Volume 3, Issue 2 (1970)]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=0aybVYyYLcuBUYvrg5gL&id=rXscAQAAMAAJ&dq=sindhi+cholo&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=+cholo Weekly of Pakistan, Volume 20, Issues 27-39 (1968)]</ref> with very wide sleeves.<ref>Papers by Command, Volume 68. Great Britain. Parliament. House of Commons H.M. Stationery Office, 1979 - Legislation [https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=hkhsVaisHcPbU_OIgNAM&id=lDQ6AQAAIAAJ&dq=shalwar+sindh&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=extra+wide]</ref> The traditional cholo can reach down to the ankles.<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=J66bVcufB8bzUJC7s6AL&id=pboYAAAAYAAJ&dq=sindhi+cholo&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=ankles Chaukhandi tombs in Pakistan (1996])</ref> | ||
==Images== | ==Images== | ||