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{{Infobox person | name = Mike Westmacott | image = Mike Westmacott 1993.jpg | caption = | birth_date = {{birth date|df=y|1925|4|12}} | birth_place = [[Babbacombe]], Torquay, Devon | death_date = {{death date and age|df=y|2012|6|20|1925|4|12}} | death_place = [[Grange-over-Sands]], Cumbria | occupation = Statistician and economist | spouse = | father = | relatives = | known_for = member of the [[1953 British Mount Everest Expedition]] | education = | alma_mater = Corpus Christi College, Oxford | honours = }} | {{Infobox person | name = Mike Westmacott | image = Mike Westmacott 1993.jpg | caption = | birth_date = {{birth date|df=y|1925|4|12}} | birth_place = [[Babbacombe]], Torquay, Devon | death_date = {{death date and age|df=y|2012|6|20|1925|4|12}} | death_place = [[Grange-over-Sands]], Cumbria | occupation = Statistician and economist | spouse = | father = | relatives = | known_for = member of the [[1953 British Mount Everest Expedition]] | education = | alma_mater = Corpus Christi College, Oxford | honours = }} | ||
'''Michael Horatio Westmacott''' (12 April 1925 – 20 June 2012) was a prominent British [[mountaineer]] who was a member of the team which made the first ascent of Mount Everest. | '''Michael Horatio Westmacott''' (12 April 1925 – 20 June 2012) was a prominent British [[mountaineer]] who was a member of the team which made the first ascent of Mount Everest.<ref name=GObit>{{cite news|author=Ed Douglas |url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2012/jun/22/mike-westmacott |title=Mike Westmacott obituary |work=The Guardian|date= 22 June 2012|accessdate=2012-06-23 |location=London}}</ref> | ||
==Biography== | ==Biography== | ||
Westmacott was born on 12 April 1925 at Coombe House, St George's Crescent in [[Babbacombe]], Torquay, [[Devon]]. He was the oldest of three children of Horatio Westmacott, who served in the Royal Navy, and Irene Mary Juanita Gwennap Moore. His sisters were Monica Mary Westmacott and Catherine Penelope Westmacott. | Westmacott was born on 12 April 1925 at Coombe House, St George's Crescent in [[Babbacombe]], Torquay, [[Devon]]. He was the oldest of three children of Horatio Westmacott, who served in the Royal Navy, and Irene Mary Juanita Gwennap Moore. His sisters were Monica Mary Westmacott and Catherine Penelope Westmacott. | ||
Westmacott was educated at [[Radley College]], Radley near [[Abingdon, Oxfordshire]] and [[Corpus Christi College, Oxford]], where, after the war, he read mathematics. | Westmacott was educated at [[Radley College]], Radley near [[Abingdon, Oxfordshire]] and [[Corpus Christi College, Oxford]], where, after the war, he read mathematics.<ref name=HJObit>{{cite journal | title = In Memoriam: Michael Westmacott (1925-2012)| url = https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/68/20/in-memoriam/ | access-date = 23 May 2025 | journal = Himalayan Journal | date =2013 | first = Stephen | last = Goodwin }} </ref> | ||
During [[World War II]] he served as an [[commissioned officer|officer]] with the British Indian Army Corps of Engineers in [[Burma]]. In Burma he was involved in building bridges with the King George V's [[Bengal Engineer Group|Bengal Sappers and Miners]] with 150 Japanese PoWs under his command. | During [[World War II]] he served as an [[commissioned officer|officer]] with the British Indian Army Corps of Engineers in [[Burma]]. In Burma he was involved in building bridges with the King George V's [[Bengal Engineer Group|Bengal Sappers and Miners]] with 150 Japanese PoWs under his command.<ref name=HJObit/> | ||
After the war Westmacott worked for some years as an agricultural [[statistician]] at [[Rothamsted Research|Rothamsted Experimental Station]]. In 1957 he married Sally, Sarah Ellen Seddon. In the early 1960's he started working for [[Shell International]] as an economist and for a period from 1963 he was stationed in the US. | After the war Westmacott worked for some years as an agricultural [[statistician]] at [[Rothamsted Research|Rothamsted Experimental Station]]. In 1957 he married Sally, Sarah Ellen Seddon. In the early 1960's he started working for [[Shell International]] as an economist and for a period from 1963 he was stationed in the US.<ref name=GObit/><ref name=AJArrigetch>{{cite journal | title = Arrigetch | url = https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1967_files/AJ%201967%20109-116%20Westmacott%20Arrigetch.pdf | journal =Alpine Journal | date =1967 | page = 109-116 | issn = 0065-6569 | volume =#72 | first = Michael | last=Westmacott | access-date = 23 May 2025}}</ref> | ||
He retired in 1985 and moved to the [[Lake District]]. On 20 June 2012 he died in [[Grange-over-Sands]], Cumbria. | He retired in 1985 and moved to the [[Lake District]]. On 20 June 2012 he died in [[Grange-over-Sands]], Cumbria. | ||
==Mountaineering== | ==Mountaineering== | ||
Westmacott climbed extensively in the [[United Kingdom]] and the [[European Alps]] | Westmacott climbed extensively in the [[United Kingdom]] and the [[European Alps]]<ref name=HJObit/> before becoming a member of the [[1953 British Mount Everest Expedition]] which was led by [[John Hunt, Baron Hunt|John Hunt]]. While [[Edmund Hillary]] and [[Tenzing Norgay]] were making the first ascent of the {{convert|8848|m|ft|abbr=on}} Everest mountain in 1953, it was Westmacott and his team of Sherpas who kept open the expedition's vital line of supply and return. | ||
In 1956 he joined [[John Kempe]], [[George Band]], John Streetly, John William Tucker and Dr Donald Stafford Matthews | In 1956 he joined [[John Kempe]], [[George Band]], John Streetly, John William Tucker and Dr Donald Stafford Matthews<ref>{{cite book | title = Medicine My Passport | first =Donald Stafford |last = Matthews | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=rzIz8DfI-6gC | publisher = G. G. Harrap | date = 1957 | access-date = 23 May 2025 }}</ref> on an expedition to the Peruvian Andes.<ref>{{cite web | title = Huagaruncho | website =MEF – Mount Everest Foundation| access-date = 14 September 2024 |url = https://www.mef.org.uk/expeditions/huagaruncho }}</ref> Streetly and Westmacott successfully made the [[first ascent]] of the {{convert|5723|m|ft}} [[Huagaruncho]] on 17 August 1956.<ref>{{cite journal | title = The Exploration of Huagaruncho: A Peruvian Journey | journal =Geographical Journal| date=December 1957| first1 =G. C. | last1 = Band | first2 = M. H. | last2 = Westmacott | first3 = John | last3 = Kempe | volume =#123 | issue =4 | pages= ‘437–447 | access-date = 14 September 2024 |url = https://www.jstor.org/stable/1790344 | doi=10.2307/1790344 | jstor =1790344| bibcode =1957GeogJ.123..437B| url-access =subscription }}</ref><ref>{{cite book | last = Westmacott| first = Michael | title=Mountain World 1958/59 |chapter= Huagaruncho | editor-last=Barnes | editor-first=Malcolm |year=1958 | publisher=George Allen and Unwin | pages=65–75 | isbn= }}</ref> | ||
Whilst based in the US he joined a small party in 1964 on the first successful rock climbing expedition to the [[Arrigetch Peaks]] of [[Alaska]]. Westmacott and his wife were members of the teams which made first ascents of several of the area's granite spires. | Whilst based in the US he joined a small party in 1964 on the first successful rock climbing expedition to the [[Arrigetch Peaks]] of [[Alaska]]. Westmacott and his wife were members of the teams which made first ascents of several of the area's granite spires.<ref>{{cite journal | title = The Granite Towers of the Arrigetch, Brooks Range | first = Jeanne | last = Bergen | url = https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196531500/The-Granite-Towers-of-Arrigetch-Brooks-Range | journal = American Alpine Journal | date = 1965 |issn = 0065-6925 | volume = #15 | issue = 39 | access-date = 23 May 2025 }}</ref><ref name=AJArrigetch/> | ||
A small expedition to the [[Hindu Kush]] in 1968, with his wife, [[Trevor Braham]], and Hugh Thomlinson, led to the first ascent of a {{convert|5681|m|ft|abbr=on}} peak near Wakhikah Rah in NE [[Chitral]]. | A small expedition to the [[Hindu Kush]] in 1968, with his wife, [[Trevor Braham]], and Hugh Thomlinson, led to the first ascent of a {{convert|5681|m|ft|abbr=on}} peak near Wakhikah Rah in NE [[Chitral]].<ref>{{cite journal | last = Westmacott| first = Michael | title=A Visit to the Ushnu Gol NE Chitral 1968| url = https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/29/13/a-visit-to-the-ushnu-gol-ne-chitral-1968/| access-date = 23 May 2025 | journal = Himalayan Journal | date = 1969 }}</ref> | ||
He became president of the [[Alpine Club (UK)|Alpine Club]] (1993–1995) | He became president of the [[Alpine Club (UK)|Alpine Club]] (1993–1995)<ref>{{Cite book |last=Griffin |first=Lindsay |title=Alpine Club Handbook 2015 |publisher=Alpine Club |year=2015 |pages=12 |language=English}}</ref> and was instrumental in establishing the Alpine Club's [[Alpine_Club (UK)#Publications|Himalayan Index]].<ref name=GObit/> He was also elected president of the [[Climbers Club]] (1978-1980). | ||
==References== | ==References== | ||
Latest revision as of 12:29, 22 March 2026
Mike Westmacott | |
|---|---|
 | |
| Born | 12 April 1925 Babbacombe, Torquay, Devon |
| Died | 20 June 2012 (aged 87) Grange-over-Sands, Cumbria |
| Alma mater | Corpus Christi College, Oxford |
| Occupation | Statistician and economist |
| Known for | member of the 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition |
Michael Horatio Westmacott (12 April 1925 – 20 June 2012) was a prominent British mountaineer who was a member of the team which made the first ascent of Mount Everest.[1]
Biography[edit | edit source]
Westmacott was born on 12 April 1925 at Coombe House, St George's Crescent in Babbacombe, Torquay, Devon. He was the oldest of three children of Horatio Westmacott, who served in the Royal Navy, and Irene Mary Juanita Gwennap Moore. His sisters were Monica Mary Westmacott and Catherine Penelope Westmacott.
Westmacott was educated at Radley College, Radley near Abingdon, Oxfordshire and Corpus Christi College, Oxford, where, after the war, he read mathematics.[2]
During World War II he served as an officer with the British Indian Army Corps of Engineers in Burma. In Burma he was involved in building bridges with the King George V's Bengal Sappers and Miners with 150 Japanese PoWs under his command.[2]
After the war Westmacott worked for some years as an agricultural statistician at Rothamsted Experimental Station. In 1957 he married Sally, Sarah Ellen Seddon. In the early 1960's he started working for Shell International as an economist and for a period from 1963 he was stationed in the US.[1][3]
He retired in 1985 and moved to the Lake District. On 20 June 2012 he died in Grange-over-Sands, Cumbria.
Mountaineering[edit | edit source]
Westmacott climbed extensively in the United Kingdom and the European Alps[2] before becoming a member of the 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition which was led by John Hunt. While Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay were making the first ascent of the 8,848 m (29,029 ft) Everest mountain in 1953, it was Westmacott and his team of Sherpas who kept open the expedition's vital line of supply and return.
In 1956 he joined John Kempe, George Band, John Streetly, John William Tucker and Dr Donald Stafford Matthews[4] on an expedition to the Peruvian Andes.[5] Streetly and Westmacott successfully made the first ascent of the 5,723 metres (18,776 ft) Huagaruncho on 17 August 1956.[6][7]
Whilst based in the US he joined a small party in 1964 on the first successful rock climbing expedition to the Arrigetch Peaks of Alaska. Westmacott and his wife were members of the teams which made first ascents of several of the area's granite spires.[8][3]
A small expedition to the Hindu Kush in 1968, with his wife, Trevor Braham, and Hugh Thomlinson, led to the first ascent of a 5,681 m (18,638 ft) peak near Wakhikah Rah in NE Chitral.[9]
He became president of the Alpine Club (1993–1995)[10] and was instrumental in establishing the Alpine Club's Himalayan Index.[1] He was also elected president of the Climbers Club (1978-1980).
References[edit | edit source]
- ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 Ed Douglas (22 June 2012). "Mike Westmacott obituary". The Guardian. London. Retrieved 23 June 2012.
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 Goodwin, Stephen (2013). "In Memoriam: Michael Westmacott (1925-2012)". Himalayan Journal. Retrieved 23 May 2025.
- ↑ 3.0 3.1 Westmacott, Michael (1967). "Arrigetch" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #72: 109-116. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 23 May 2025.
- ↑ Matthews, Donald Stafford (1957). Medicine My Passport. G. G. Harrap. Retrieved 23 May 2025.
- ↑ "Huagaruncho". MEF – Mount Everest Foundation. Retrieved 14 September 2024.
- ↑ Band, G. C.; Westmacott, M. H.; Kempe, John (December 1957). "The Exploration of Huagaruncho: A Peruvian Journey". Geographical Journal. #123 (4): ‘437–447. Bibcode:1957GeogJ.123..437B. doi:10.2307/1790344. JSTOR 1790344. Retrieved 14 September 2024.
- ↑ Westmacott, Michael (1958). "Huagaruncho". In Barnes, Malcolm (ed.). Mountain World 1958/59. George Allen and Unwin. pp. 65–75.
- ↑ Bergen, Jeanne (1965). "The Granite Towers of the Arrigetch, Brooks Range". American Alpine Journal. #15 (39). ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 23 May 2025.
- ↑ Westmacott, Michael (1969). "A Visit to the Ushnu Gol NE Chitral 1968". Himalayan Journal. Retrieved 23 May 2025.
- ↑ Griffin, Lindsay (2015). Alpine Club Handbook 2015. Alpine Club. p. 12.
External links[edit | edit source]
- "Mike Westmacott". The Telegraph. London. 24 June 2012. Retrieved 25 June 2012.
- "Everest expedition climber Westmacott dies, aged 87". BBC News. 22 June 2012. Retrieved 25 June 2012.
- "On this day : 1953: Everest stories - Mike Westmacott". BBC. 29 May 1953. Retrieved 25 June 2012.
- Royal Geographical Society Archived 31 December 2006 at the Wayback Machine