Kasuti: Difference between revisions

'''Kasuti''' ({{lang-kn|ಕಸೂತಿ}}) is a traditional form of folk embroidery practised in the state of [[Karnataka]], [[India]].<ref name="kasu"> An [[exhibition]] of Kasuti work is reported by {{cite news|url=http://www.hindu.com/thehindu/mp/2007/03/15/stories/2007031501430200.htm|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071001000117/http://www.hindu.com/thehindu/mp/2007/03/15/stories/2007031501430200.htm|url-status=dead|archive-date=2007-10-01|title=Exhibition of Kasuti work|access-date=2007-04-22|location=Chennai, India|work=[[The Hindu]]|date=2007-03-15}}</ref> Kasuti work which is very intricate sometimes involves putting up to 5,000 stitches by hand and is traditionally made on dresswear like [[Ilkal saree|Ilkal]] sarees, [[Choli|Ravike]] and [[Achkan|Angi]] or [[Kurta]]. The [[Karnataka]] Handicrafts Development Corporation (KHDC) holds a [[geographical indications]] (GI) protection for Kasuti embroidery which provides [[intellectual property]] rights on Kasuti to KHDC.<ref name="hist"> History of Kasuti is mentioned by {{cite news|author=Govind D. Belgaumkar and Anil Kumar Sastry|url=http://www.hindu.com/2006/10/27/stories/2006102714680200.htm|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070210153012/http://www.hindu.com/2006/10/27/stories/2006102714680200.htm|url-status=dead|archive-date=2007-02-10|title=Unique symbols of Karnataka |access-date=2007-04-22|location=Chennai, India|work=[[The Hindu]]|date=2006-10-27}}</ref>

The history of Kasuti dates back to the [[Chalukya]] period.<ref name="hist" /> The name ''Kasuti'' is derived from the words ''Kai'' (meaning hand) and ''Suti'' (meaning cotton), indicating an activity that is done using cotton and hands.<ref name="name"> The origin of Kasuti is discussed by {{cite web

}}</ref> The women courtiers in the [[Mysore Kingdom]] in the 17th century were expected to be adept in 64 arts, with Kasuti being one of them.<ref name="name" /> The Kasuti embroidery features folk designs influenced by rangoli patterns of [[Karnataka]], mirror work embroidery and gold & silver thread embroidery were mostly used for special occasions like weddings. In Karnataka [[Sari|Sarees]] embroidered with Kasuti were expected to be a part of the bridal trousseau of which one saree made of black silk with Kasuti embroidery called ''Chandrakali saree'' was of premier importance.

Kasuti work involves embroidering very intricate patterns like [[gopura]], [[chariot]], [[palanquin]], lamps and [[conch shell]]s. Locally available materials are used for Kasuti. The pattern to be embroidered is first marked with charcoal or pencil and then proper needles and thread are selected. The work is laborious and involves counting of each thread on the cloth. The patterns are stitched without using knots to ensure that both sides of the cloth look alike.<ref name="kasut"> A detailed description of Kasuti work is provided by {{cite web|author=K. L. Kamat|url=http://www.kamat.com/kalranga/art/kasuti.htm|title=Kasooti – Traditional Embroidery |work=Online Webpage of Kamat's Potpourri|publisher=© 1996-2007 Kamat's Potpourri|access-date=2007-04-22}}</ref> Different varieties of stitches are employed to obtain the desired pattern. Some of the stitches employed are ''Gavanthi'', ''Murgi'', ''Negi'' and ''Menthi''.<ref name="crafts">A brief description of Kasuti is provided by {{cite web|url=http://www.cimindia.net/Indian%20Crafts.pdf|title=Indian crafts|work=Online webpage of cimindia.net|publisher=2004, Conferences & Incentive Management (I) Pvt. Ltd.|access-date=2007-04-22|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070203094351/http://www.cimindia.net/Indian%20Crafts.pdf|archive-date=3 February 2007|url-status=dead}}</ref> ''Gavanthi'' is a double running stitch used for marking vertical, horizontal and diagonal lines, ''Murgi'' is a zig-zag stitch, ''Negi'' is a running stitch and ''Menthi'' is a cross stitch resembling fenugreek seeds.

{{cite web|author=Aruna Chandaraju|url=http://www.hinduonnet.com/thehindu/mp/2005/03/05/stories/2005030502400300.htm|title=Modern MYSURU|work=Online Webpage of The Hindu, dated 2005-03-05|publisher=2005, The Hindu|access-date=2007-04-22|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20050508214803/http://www.hinduonnet.com/thehindu/mp/2005/03/05/stories/2005030502400300.htm|archive-date=8 May 2005|url-status=dead}}</ref> A Kasuti centre was set up in [[Hubli]], [[Karnataka]] by the Department of Social Welfare, Government of [[Karnataka]] to encourage the Kasuti culture and also provide a single roof for the rural women to showcase their craft.<ref name="hist" /> However Kasuti work is suffering from poor patronage with not many people willing to take the craft seriously; an indication of which is the closure of the ''Karnataka Kasuti'' classes by the JSS college in [[Dharwad]].<ref name="hist" />