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{{short description|Metal embroidery, originally for attire of the moghul kings and other royals in India}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=February 2020}}
[[File:Close Shot of the Zardozi (Zardouzi) Embroidery Cushion Covers.jpg|thumb|Close-up shoot of zardozi (zardouzi) embroidery]]
[[File:Lady Curzon's peacock gown - Chicago Tribune 27 September 1903.jpg|thumb|[[Vicereine]] [[Lady Curzon's peacock dress]], with a skirt made of Indian zardozi needlework featuring green beetle wings and gold and silver thread, was a sensation at her [[coronation]], making the front page of the ''[[Chicago Tribune]]'' on 27 September 1903]]
'''Zardozi''' or '''Zar-douzi''', also '''Zardosi''' ([[Persian language|Persian]]: زَردوزی, [[Arabic language|Arabic]]: خرير الماء, [[Hindi]]: ज़रदोज़ी, [[Urdu language|Urdu]]: زَردوزی, [[Azerbaijani language|Azerbaijani]]: Zərdozi, [[Turkish language|Turkish]]: Ters örgü),
work is a type of [[embroidery]] in [[Iran]], [[Azerbaijan]], [[Iraq]],<ref>{{cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=BkjtAAAAMAAJ&q=zardozi+kuwait |title=Study of child labour in the Zardosi and Hathari units of Varanasi |page=13 |date=2003 |author1=John, J. |author2=Ghosh, Ruma |publisher=V.V. Giri National Labour Institute }}</ref> [[Kuwait]], [[Syria]], [[Turkey]], [[Central Asia]], [[India]], [[Pakistan]] and [[Bangladesh]]. Zardozi comes from two Persian words: ''zar'' or ''zarin'' meaning 'gold', and ''dozi'' meaning 'sewing'.<ref name="Pathak2018">{{cite news |last1=Pathak |first1=Nilima |title=Zardozi workers struggle to make ends meet |url=https://gulfnews.com/lifestyle/zardozi-workers-struggle-to-make-ends-meet-1.2253404 |access-date=7 April 2019 |work=Gulf News |date=18 July 2018 |language=en}}</ref> Zardozi is a type of heavy and elaborate metal embroidery on a silk, satin, or velvet fabric base.<ref name="Naik1996">{{cite book |last1=Naik |first1=Shailaja D. |title=Traditional embroideries of India |date=1996 |publisher=A.P.H. Pub. Corp |isbn=8170247314 |page=144}}</ref> Designs are often created using gold and silver threads and can incorporate pearls, beads, and precious stones.<ref>{{cite web |title=Indian Zari Embroidery |url=https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/regional-traditions/indian-subcontinent/indian-zari-embroidery |website=TRC Needles |publisher=Textile Research Center |access-date=7 April 2019 |language=en-gb}}</ref> It is used as decoration for a wide range of applications, including clothes, household textiles, and animal trappings.<ref name="Naik1996"/> Historically, it was used to adorn the walls of royal tents, scabbards, wall hangings and the paraphernalia of regal elephants and horses.<ref name="Bhattacharyya2017">{{cite news |last1=Bhattacharyya |first1=Ranadeep |title=Silver and Gold- Story of Zardozi |url=https://heritage-india.com/silver-gold-story-zardozi/ |access-date=7 April 2019 |work=Heritage India Magazine |date=1 August 2017}}</ref>

Initially, the embroidery was done with pure silver wires and real gold leaves. However, today, craftsmen make use of a combination of copper wire, with a golden or silver polish, and silk thread.

==Indian subcontinent==
[[File:John Lockwood Kipling - Zardozi workers in Delhi 2007BM7334 jpg l.jpg|thumb|Drawing of [[Delhi]] gold embroiderers at work in 1870, by [[John Lockwood Kipling]]]]
Gold embroidery has existed in India since the time of the [[Rigveda]], between 1500 and 1200 BC. It prospered during the 17th century during the reign of the [[Mughal emperor]] [[Akbar]], but later a loss of royal patronage and [[Industrial Revolution|industrialization]] led to its decline. The craft began to experience a resurgence in popularity following [[Indian Independence Act 1947|India's independence in 1947]].<ref name="Pathak2018">{{cite news |last1=Pathak |first1=Nilima |title=Zardozi workers struggle to make ends meet |url=https://gulfnews.com/lifestyle/zardozi-workers-struggle-to-make-ends-meet-1.2253404 |access-date=7 April 2019 |work=Gulf News |date=18 July 2018 |language=en}}</ref><ref name="Bhattacharyya2017"/>

Today, zardozi is popular in the Indian cities of [[Lucknow]], [[Farrukhabad]], [[Chennai]] and [[Bhopal]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.culturalindia.net/indian-crafts/zardozi.html |title=Zardozi |website=Cultural India |access-date=25 May 2008}}</ref> In 2013, the [[Geographical Indication Registry (India)|Geographical Indication Registry (GIR)]] accorded [[Geographical indication|Geographical Indication (GI)]] registration to the Lucknow zardozi. With GI status, zardozi artisans, distributors, and retailers in Lucknow and the six surrounding districts of [[Barabanki district|Barabanki]], [[Unnao district|Unnao]], [[Sitapur district|Sitapur]], [[Rae Bareli district|Rae Bareli]], [[Hardoi district|Hardoi]] and [[Amethi district|Amethi]] can become authorized users of the "Lucknow Zardozi" brand and carry a unique mark of authenticity.<ref>{{cite news|title=Lucknow zardozi gets GI registration|url=http://www.business-standard.com/article/current-affairs/lucknow-zardozi-gets-gi-registration-113042400432_1.html|access-date=10 July 2013|newspaper=The Business Standard|date=24 April 2013 |author=Rawat, Virendra Singh |location=New Delhi/Lucknow }}</ref>

==Iran==
Zardozi is an important [[handicraft]] in Persian culture. It is known around the country by names such as ''zar-douzi'' ({{lang-fa|زردوزی}}), ''kam-douzi'' ({{lang-fa|کم‌دوزی}}), ''gol-douzi'' ({{lang-fa|گل‌دوزی}}) and ''kaman-douzi'' ({{lang-fa|کمان‌دوزی}}). Nowadays it is more popular in [[Hormozgan]], especially in [[Bandar-e Lenge]], [[Bandar-e Abbas]], and [[Minab]].<ref name="aftab">{{cite web |url=http://www.aftabir.com/articles/view/art_culture/handicrafts/c5c1232795885_passementerie_p1.php/%DA%AF%D9%84%D8%A7%D8%A8%D8%AA%D9%88%D9%86-%D8%AF%D9%88%D8%B2%DB%8C |title=گلابتون دوزی |trans-title=Scarabs |language=fa |date=5 February 2008 |access-date=21 May 2011}}</ref>

Persian zardozi is of three kinds:

* Some people completely sew the basic fabric with Bakhie ({{lang-fa|بخیه}}) in order to produce novel patterns and colors, such as the [[Baloch people|Baloch]]'s Souzan-douzi ({{lang-fa|سوزن‌دوزی}}), [[Rasht]]'s Qollab-douzi ({{lang-fa|قلاب‌دوزی}}) and [[Kerman]]'s Pate-douzi ({{lang-fa|پَته‌دوزی}}).
* Some sew with less density of work on the original fabric. They cross the strings throughout the woof of the fabric and sew them to each other to form a colorfully patterned lattice, such as ''sekke-douzi'' ({{lang-fa|سکّه‌دوزی}}) or ''qollab-douzi'' ({{lang-fa|قلاب‌دوزی}}) in [[Isfahan]].
* A third way is to sew a variety of patterns on the original fabric with gold and silver strings, such as ''Dah-Yek-Douzi'' ({{lang-fa|ده‌يک‌دوزی}}), Naqade-douzi ({{lang-fa|نقده‌دوزی}}), Tafte-douzi ({{lang-fa|تافته‌دوزی}}), Kous-douzi ({{lang-fa|خوس‌دوزی}}) Zari-douzi ({{lang-fa|زر‌دوزی}}) or Golabatoun-douzi ({{lang-fa|گلابتون‌دوزی}}).<ref name="aftab"/>

==References==
{{reflist}}

==External links==
* {{Commons category-inline|Zardozi}}

{{embroidery}}
{{Clothing in South Asia}}

[[Category:Culture of Lucknow]]
[[Category:Embroidery in India]]
[[Category:Pakistani embroidery]]
[[Category:Turkish embroidery]]
[[Category:Azerbaijani embroidery]]
[[Category:Kuwaiti embroidery]]
[[Category:Iraqi embroidery]]
[[Category:Persian embroidery]]
[[Category:Persian handicrafts]]
[[Category:Iranian clothing]]
[[Category:Persian words and phrases]]
[[Category:Economy of Lucknow]]

Zardozi - Revision history

Infycle Technologies: small edit

imported>Gotitbro: Restored revision 998091462 by Monkbot (talk): Rvt WP:POVPUSH, restore last good