Developer.mubin: added new data nd citations

2026-03-19T03:05:26Z

added new data nd citations

New page

{{Short description|Indian mountaineer}}
{{Use Indian English|date=August 2025}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=August 2025}}
{{Infobox person
| name = Umesh Zirpe
| image = TNNA Award to Umesh Zirpe 1 (1).png
| caption = Receiving Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award at the hands of Honorable President of India, Smt Droupadi Murmu.
| birth_place = Pune, Maharashtra, India
| occupation = Mountaineer and Mentor
| known_for = Leading multiple 8,000 m Himalayan expeditions; member of Giripremi mountaineering club
| awards = Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award (2023), Shiv Chhatrapati Award
}}

'''Umesh Zirpe''' is an Indian [[Mountaineering|mountaineer]]. He is also known by the name "मामाजी (Mamaji)" by the mountaineering fraternity in India. Zirpe is an expedition leader, and senior member of the Giripremi mountaineering club, a mountaineering club in [[Pune|Pune, Maharashtra]].

Zirpe is known in the mountaineering community for leading successful expeditions to eight of the fourteen [[eight-thousander]] highest mountains in the world.<ref name="ref1">{{cite web |title=A Pune Club and Its Tryst With 8000m |url=https://shyamgopan.com/2019/09/05/a-pune-club-and-its-tryst-with-8000m/ |work=Shyam G Menon at Outrigger blog |date=5 September 2019 }}</ref> These include [[Mount Everest]], [[Lhotse]], [[Makalu]], [[Manaslu]], [[Cho Oyu]], [[Dhaulagiri]], [[Kanchenjunga]], and [[Annapurna|Annapurna-1]]. He has also led expeditions to some of the other technically difficult peaks including Mount Shivling, Mount Manda, and [[Meru Peak|Mount Meru]].

== Early life and mountaineering career ==
Zirpe joined the [[Giripremi]] mountaineering club in Pune in 1986 to promote mountaineering sports in the society. He planned expeditions to several unexplored and technically demanding mountain peaks.<ref>{{cite news | url=https://media.licdn.com/dms/image/v2/C5622AQEXm9eZQV4n5g/feedshare-shrink_1280/feedshare-shrink_1280/0/1589987009442?e=1759968000&v=beta&t=3FfXNqJYQhrJf8p5rg1SHSokJjllLNY5YCp4TIoujds| title=गिर्यारोहकांना घडवणारा 'गिरिप्रेमी' सेनापती | language = Marathi | work=Maharashtra Times | date = 20 May 2020}}</ref> In his early mountaineering journey, he attempted peaks including Manda-1,<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/75/8/kedar-ganga-valley/ | title=Kedar Ganga Valley | author=Brg. Ashok Abbey | work=Himalayan Journal vol 75 |year=2020 }}</ref> Satopanth, Thelu, and led expedition to Mt. Shivling.<ref>{{cite web|title=Climbing the Dream Mountain: Shivling | url=https://himalayanclub.org/hj/63/19/expeditions-and-notes/ |author=Rupesh Khopade | work=Himalayan Journal vol 63|year=2007}}</ref>

He led the club’s first Everest expedition in 2012,<ref name="toiEverest2012">{{cite news |date=16 May 2012 |title=12 mountaineers from Pune scaled Mount Everest |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/pune/12-mountaineers-from-pune-scaled-mount-everest/articleshow/13308593.cms |access-date=11 August 2025 |work=The Times of India}}</ref> followed by ascents of Lhotse in 2013, Makalu in 2014,<ref>{{cite news | title='गिरिप्रेमी'चे नवे पाऊल: मकालू|url=https://www.loksatta.com/trekit/giripremi-mission-mount-makalu-392282/ | work=Loksatta | language=marathi | date= 5 March 2014}}</ref> Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri in 2016,<ref>{{cite news | title=Pune-based mountaineering group Giripremi scales Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Dhaulagiri |url=https://indianexpress.com/article/cities/pune/pune-based-mountaineering-group-giripremi-scales-mt-cho-oyu-and-mt-dhaulagiri-2816031/ | work=indian Express | date=24 May 2016 | access-date=22 August 2025}}</ref> Manaslu in 2017,<ref>{{cite news |title=Pune's Akshay Patke and Ashish Mane summit Mount Manaslu |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/pune/punes-akshay-patke-and-ashish-mane-summits-mount-manaslu/articleshow/60869983.cms |work=The Times of India |date=28 September 2017 |access-date=11 August 2025}}</ref> and Kanchenjunga in 2019.<ref>{{cite news |title=10 mountaineers from India summit Mt Kanchenjunga |url=https://www.aninews.in/news/national/general-news/10-mountaineers-from-india-summit-mt-kanchenjunga20190515221403/ |work=ANI News |date=15 May 2019 |access-date=11 August 2025 |archive-date=26 September 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200926034212/https://www.aninews.in/news/national/general-news/10-mountaineers-from-india-summit-mt-kanchenjunga20190515221403/ |url-status=dead }}</ref> He scaled Mount Mera at the age of 54 in a solo attempt in October 2019.<ref name="meraNews">{{cite news|url=https://www.aninews.in/news/national/general-news/veteran-mountaineer-umesh-zirpe-climbs-mount-mera20191012172906/ | title=Veteran mountaineer Umesh Zirpe climbs Mount Mera | work=ANI News | date=12 Oct 2019}}</ref>

In 2023, he led the first successful Indian ascent of Mount Meru’s 6,600-metre high central peak.<ref name="HTMeru">{{cite news |date=28 September 2023 |title=Giripremi team scales Mt Meru, first Indian group to achieve feat |url=https://www.hindustantimes.com/cities/pune-news/giripremi-team-scales-mt-meru-first-indian-group-to-achieve-feat-101694976113535.html |access-date=11 August 2025 |work=Hindustan Times}}</ref> The documentary film of this expedition, The Ascent of Mt. Meru <ref>{{cite web | title=The Ascent of Mt. Meru | url = https://www.imdb.com/title/tt33508031/ | work=IMDB | year=2024 }}</ref> was screened in several International Adventure Film Festivals including the Torello Mountain Film Festival 19th Edition in Spain.<ref>{{cite news | title= Indian film on Mt Meru expedition invited in international festival| url=https://www.deccanherald.com/india/maharashtra/indian-film-on-mt-meru-expedition-invited-in-international-festivals-3286424 | work=Deccan Herald | date=21 November 2024}}</ref>

For his contribution to the field of mountaineering, he was awarded the [[Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award]] under the Life Time Achievement category for 2023.<ref name="award1" />

Zirpe was also involved in the foundation of [[Maharashtra|Maharashtra's]] first mountaineering training institute, Guardian Giripremi Institute of Mountaineering,<ref>{{cite news | url=https://www.mypunepulse.com/ggim-marks-10-years-of-adventure-with-mountaineering-experts-gathering-in-pune/ | title=GGIM Marks 10 Years Of Adventure With Mountaineering Experts Gathering In Pune | work=My Pune pulse |date=17 February 2025}}</ref> which was founded in 2015. Along with promotion of Mountaineering sports to masses, he contributed for the inclusion of mountaineering in Indian education. In 2020, [[Savitribai Phule Pune University]] adopted a Diploma Course in Mountaineering and Allied Sports.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.hindustantimes.com/cities/pune-news/pune-varsity-and-giripremi-launch-1-year-diploma-in-mountaineering-101624101209430.html | date=19 January 2021 |title=Pune Univarsity and Giripremi launch 1-year diploma in Mountaineering|work=hindusthan Times}}</ref>

Along with mountaineering, Zirpe has been active in community initiatives related to mountains and mountaineers. During natural disasters such as the [[2014 South Napa earthquake|Nepal earthquake]], [[2013 North India floods|Uttarakhand flash floods]], and [[COVID-19 pandemic]], he took part in relief and rescue work.<ref>{{cite web | title=Heroes in the mountains, intrepid volunteers in search & rescue ops | url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/pune/heroes-in-the-mountains-intrepid-volunteers-in-search-rescue-ops/articleshow/65284480.cms | date=8 August 2018 | work=TOI}}</ref> Zirpe is current President of Akhil Maharashtra Giryarohan Mahasangh, an organization of mountaineering in Maharashtra.<ref>{{cite news | url=https://www.deccanherald.com/india/umesh-zirpe-to-head-maharashtra-mountaineering-body-1162514.html | title=Umesh Zirpe to head Maharashtra mountaineering body | work=Deccan Herald | date=15 Nov 2022}}</ref> Zirpe was also invited as one of the committee members of Fort Conservation Committee by Government of Maharashtra.<ref>{{cite news | title=Umesh Zirpe appointed as a member of Fort Preservation and Conservation Committee of state government | url=https://www.punekarnews.in/umesh-zirpe-appointed-as-a-member-of-fort-preservation-and-conservation-committee-of-state-government/ | work=Punekar News | date=2 July 2021}}</ref>

Zirpe supported the ''Chhatrapati Shivaji Sherpa Social Project'' which was established for the betterment and upliftment of [[Sherpa people]] in [[Solukhumbu District|Solu-Khumbu, Nepal]].<ref name="ref1" /><ref>{{cite news |date=24 April 2012 |title=Giripremi mountaineers install Shivaji statue at Everest base camp |url=https://indianexpress.com/article/cities/pune/giripremi-mountaineers-install-shivaji-statue-at-everest-base-camp/ |work=Times of India}}</ref> In and around his hometown, Zirpe has been involved in works including environment conservation, sports promotion, training underprivileged youth for mountaineering sport.<ref>{{cite AV media |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWNY3ik3bWk |title=विश्वशांती संवाद- Shri. Umesh Zirpe (President, All Maharashtra Mountaineering Association)-Part 1 |date=25 June 2025 |language=marathi}}</ref>

== Awards ==
* '''[[Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award]]''' for lifetime achievement in mountaineering (2023).<ref name="award1">{{Cite AV media |url=https://www.youtube.com/live/V7txFf_Pv1g?si=OomeWwl2T44_U_I-&t=3268 |title=President Droupadi Murmu presents National Sports and Adventure Awards 2024 at Rashtrapati Bhavan |language=en |access-date=2025-08-22 |via=www.youtube.com}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |title=Zirpe to receive Tenzing Norgay Adventure Award |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/pune/zirpe-to-receive-tenzing-norgay-adventure-award/articleshow/117096572.cms |work=The Times of India |date=22 August 2023 |access-date=11 August 2025}}</ref><ref>{{cite news| url=https://www.mensxp.com/marathi/latest/trending/174941-mountaineer-umesh-zirpe-will-get-prestigious-tenzing-norgay-national-adventure-award-2023-for-lifetime-achievement-in-the-field-of-adventure-news-in-marathi.html | title=अनुभवी गिर्यारोहक उमेश झिरपे यांचा सर्वोच्च सन्मान; राष्ट्रपतींच्या हस्ते मिळाला मानाचा तेनझिंग नॉरगे नॅशल अॅडव्हेंचर पुरस्कार | language=marathi | work=MENSXP | date=17 January 2025}}</ref>
* '''[[Shiv Chhatrapati Award]]''' by the Government of Maharashtra.<ref>{{cite web |title=Umesh Zirpe decorated with Shiv Chhatrapati Award |url=https://giripremi.com/umesh-zirpe-decorated-with-shivcchatrapati-award/ |website=Giripremi |date=12 December 2015 |access-date=11 August 2025}}</ref><ref>{{cite news | url=https://www.loksatta.com/trekit/chhatrapati-shivaji-award-announced-to-umesh-zirpe-and-pallavi-vartak-1155271/ | title='साहसा'चा गौरव | language=marathi | work=Lokasatta | date=29 October 2015 | access-date=22 August 2015}}</ref>
* '''Sahyadriratna Puraskar''' by the Sate level Conclave of Mountaineering.<ref>{{cite web |title=Mountaineer Umesh Zirpe conferred with Sahyadri Ratna award |url=https://indianexpress.com/article/cities/pune/mountaineer-umesh-zirpe-conferred-with-sahyadri-ratna-award-10114288/ |work=Indian Express |date=8 July 2025 |access-date=22 August 2025}}</ref>
* '''Sanskriti Award for Outstanding Achievements (National Award 2023)''' by the Sate level Conclave of Mountaineering.<ref>{{cite web |title=Giripremi's Umesh Zirpe conferred with Sanskriti Award |url=https://punemirror.com/pune-mirror-explore/giripremi-s-umesh-zirpe-conferred-with-sanskriti-award |work=Pune Mirror |date=14 August 2023 |access-date=22 August 2025}}</ref>

== Publications ==
* Himalayateel Diwas (2023)<ref>{{Cite book |last=Zirpe |first=Umesh |title=Himalayateel Diwas |publisher=Sakal Prakashan |year=2023 |isbn=978-81-19311-78-1 |edition=First |language=Marathi}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Zirpe |first=Umesh |title=Himalayateel Diwas |url=https://sakalpublications.com/index.php?id_product=1316&controller=product |website=sakalpublications.com}}</ref>
* Gosht Eka Dhaysachi - Everest (Marathi 2014, English translated 2022)<ref>{{Cite news |date=29 March 2015 |title='एव्हरेस्ट'च्या ध्यासाची गोष्ट! (The story of the obsession with 'Everest'!) |url=https://www.loksatta.com/lokrang/goshta-eka-dhyasachi-everest-story-of-climbing-everest-1086640/ |work=Loksatta}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |last=Zirpe |first=Umesh |title=Goshta Eka Dhyasachi - Everest (गोष्ट एका ध्यासाची - एव्हरेस्ट) |publisher=Samakaleen Prakashan |year=2014 |language=Marathi |trans-title=}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |last=Zirpe |first=Umesh |title=Everest - The Story of India's biggest successful civilian expedition to Mt. Everest |publisher=Samakaleen Prakashan |year=2022 |isbn=978-93-92624-09-4 |edition=First |location=Pune, India |language=English}}</ref>
* Shikharratna Kanchenjunga (2022)<ref>{{Cite book |last=Zirpe |first=Umesh |title=Shikharratna Kanchanjunga |publisher=Rohan Prakashan |year=2022 |isbn=978-93-92374-29-6 |language=Marathi}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Zirpe |first=Umesh |title=Shikharratna Kanchanjunga |url=https://rohanprakashan.com/product/shikharratna-kanchanjunga/ |website=rohanprakashan.com}}</ref>
* Mountain-Men SHERPA (2021)<ref>{{Cite book |last=Zirpe |first=Umesh |title=Mountain-Men SHERPA |publisher=Rohan Prakashan |year=2021 |isbn=978-93-89458-26-8 |edition=First |language=English}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Zirpe |first=Umesh |title=Mountain-Men SHERPA |url=https://rohanprakashan.com/product/mountain-men-sherpa/ |website=rohanprakashan.com}}</ref>
* Joy of Mountaineering (Marathi and English 2019)<ref>{{Cite book |last=Zirpe |first=Umesh |title=Joy of Mountaineering |publisher=Rohan Prakashan |isbn=978-9389458022 |language=English}}</ref>
* Parvatputra Sherpa (2019)<ref>{{Cite book |last=Zirpe |first=Umesh |title=Parbatputra Sherpa (पर्वतपुत्र शेर्पा) |publisher=Rohan Prakashan |year=2019 |isbn=978-93-89458-00-8 |location=India |language=Marathi}}</ref>

== See also ==
* [[Mountaineering in India]]

== References ==
{{Reflist}}

== External links ==
* [https://giripremi.com/ Official Giripremi website]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkpSTDvAKMI Interview with Umesh Zirpe – DD Sahyadri]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfJJFqOySBQ Documentary on Giripremi expeditions]

{{DEFAULTSORT:Zirpe, Umesh}}
[[Category:1965 births]]
[[Category:Living people]]
[[Category:Indian mountain climbers]]
[[Category:Indian summiteers of Mount Everest]]

Umesh Zirpe - Revision history

Developer.mubin: added new data nd citations