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Climbing history: Fixed CS1 errors: extra text: pages and general fixes

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{{Use Indian English|date=July 2015}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=June 2019}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Thalay Sagar
| photo = Thalaysagar.JPG
| photo_caption = View of Thalaysagar en route [[Kedartal]]
| elevation_m = 6904
| elevation_ref = <ref name="aaj_1985">H. Adams Carter, "Classification of the Himalaya", ''[[American Alpine Journal]]'', 1985, p. 140.</ref>
| prominence = {{convert|1000|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}}
| prominence_ref = <ref name="DEM">Corrected version of [[SRTM]] data, available at [http://www.viewfinderpanoramas.org Viewfinder Panoramas]</ref>
| location = [[Uttarakhand]], [[India]]
| range = [[Gangotri Group]], [[Garhwal Division|Garhwal]] [[Himalayas]]
| map = India |relief=1
| range_coordinates =
| map_caption = Location in northern India
| map_size = 250
| label_position = right
| coordinates = {{coord|30|51|29|N|78|59|50|E|type:mountain_region:IN-UL_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref = <ref name="aaj_1985"/>
| topo =
| first_ascent = 24 June 1979 by Roy Kligfield, John Thackray, Pete Thexton<ref name="him_alpine_style">Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, ''Himalaya Alpine-Style'', Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, {{ISBN|0-340-64931-3}}, pp. 108–111.</ref>
| easiest_route = Northwest couloir and ridge: technical rock/snow/ice climb
}}

'''Thalay Sagar''' is a [[mountain]] in the [[Gangotri Group]] of peaks in the western [[Garhwal Division|Garhwal]] [[Himalayas]], on the main ridge that lies south of the [[Gangotri Glacier]]. It lies in the northern [[India]]n state of [[Uttarakhand]], {{Convert|10|km|mi|0}} southwest of the [[Hindu]] holy site of [[Gaumukh]] (the source of the [[Bhagirathi River]]). It is the second highest peak on the south side of the Gangotri Glacier (after [[Kedarnath (Mountain)|Kedarnath]]), but it is more notable for being a dramatic rock peak, steep on all sides, and a famed prize for [[mountaineering|mountaineers]]. It is adjacent to the Jogen group of peaks, and has the lake [[Kedartal]] at its base.[https://raachotrekkers.com/audens-col-kedartal-trek/]

==Climbing history==
[[File:Thalay Sagar.jpg|thumb|left|200px| Thalay Sagar from [[Kedartal]] in the West]]
For military and geopolitical reasons foreign climbers were not permitted into most of the Garhwal region until the late 1970s. Unusually for such a hard peak, the first exploration of the Kedar Ganga valley and Thalay Sagar by non-Indians resulted in an attempt was actually successful. It was first climbed on 24 June 1979 via the northwest couloir and ridge and thence across the shale band of the North Face by an Anglo-American team comprising Roy Kligfield, John Thackray, and Pete Thexton.<ref name="American Alpine Journal article by John Thackray">[[Thackray, John (1980) "Amnesiac in the Himalaya, Thalay Sagar, Garhwal" American Alpine Journal]] pages = pg. 457- 462 .</ref>

Since the first ascent, many other routes have been climbed on the peak, some of which have been testpieces of modern mountaineering. There have been at least 15 ascents<ref name="him_index">[http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/ Himalayan Index]</ref> by at least 9 different routes. The north face of the peak, in particular, has been climbed by 5 different routes, some more direct than others. The key difficulty in the direct routes is a notorious band of [[shale]] near the summit, which presents rotten and dangerous rock. The first route to climb directly through the shale band, instead of finishing on one of the ridges, was the [[Australia]]n Route pioneered by Andrew Lindblade and Athol Whimp; it involves {{Convert|1400|m|ft|-2|abbr=on}} of climbing and is graded [[Grade (climbing)|VII 5.9 WI5]].<ref name="American Alpine Journal article by Andrew Lindblade">{{cite journal | last = Lindblade| first = Andrew | title = To Thalay with Love | journal = [[American Alpine Journal]] | pages = 69–77 | year = 1998 | url = http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1998/69_lindblade_thalaysagar_aaj1998.pdf | accessdate = 19 October 2013}}</ref> Their climb was awarded the [[Piolet d'Or]] in 1999.<ref name="Piolet d'Or Award List">{{cite web | title = Historique des PO| url = http://www.pioletsdor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=36&Itemid=234&lang=en| accessdate = 19 October 2013}}</ref>

The first ascent of the Thalay Sagar NE face to the SE ridge was made by the Dutch team of Melvin Redeker, Mike Van Berkel and Cas Van de Gevel. They climbed in an 11-day push from base camp to summit, including time spent waiting out bad weather. The Dutch climbers were the eighth team that reached the summit.<ref>http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2004_files/AJ%202004%20308-318%20India.pdf</ref><ref>Alpinist 6, 2004, pp. 22–43</ref><ref name="American Alpine Journal article by Mike van Berkel">{{cite journal | last = Berkel| first = Mike | title = The Dutch Route | journal = [[American Alpine Journal]] | pages = 86–89 | year = 2004 | url = http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/2004/86_berkel_thalay_aaj2004.pdf | accessdate = 20 April 2015}}</ref>

In 2008 the first successful Indian ascent was accomplished by Basanta Singha Roy the famous climber from Mountaineers Association Of Krishnanagar(MAK),West Bengal, India, along with three sherpas (Pemba sherpa, pasangh sherpa & Phurba sherpa).<ref>http://www.mak.org.in</ref>

On 22 July 2012 Tusi Das, a 28-year-old woman climber from Kolkata summited the peak. She was the sole climber in the five-member women's team from the Alipore-based Kolkata Albatross Adventure Society to reach the summit. It was the first woman ascent to Mt Thalay Sagar recorded so far.<ref>http://www.telegraphindia.com/1120904/jsp/calcutta/story_15900686.jsp#.URkroB1azYo</ref>

==References==
{{reflist}}

[[Category:Geography of Uttarkashi district]]
[[Category:Mountains of Uttarakhand]]
[[Category:Six-thousanders of the Himalayas]]

Thalay Sagar - Revision history

imported>BattyBot: /* Climbing history */Fixed CS1 errors: extra text: pages and general fixes