Swargarohini - Revision history

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2022-01-03T15:30:46Z

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← Older revision		Revision as of 21:00, 3 January 2022
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	But the legends further gets complicated as many claim that the Pandavas had taken a route from the present town of Badrinath in the eastern part of Garhwal, Uttarakhand, which is very far apart from the Swargarohini peaks in Sankari range of western Garhwal. AHead of Badrinath, Mana and onwards to Satopanth Lake, one can see the Swargarohini Glacier ( no relation to Swargarohini peaks ) and Yudhishthira and the dog ( form taken by Yamraj ) had climbed the Swargarohini glacier to the top and not the Swargarohini peak.		But the legends further gets complicated as many claim that the Pandavas had taken a route from the present town of Badrinath in the eastern part of Garhwal, Uttarakhand, which is very far apart from the Swargarohini peaks in Sankari range of western Garhwal. AHead of Badrinath, Mana and onwards to Satopanth Lake, one can see the Swargarohini Glacier ( no relation to Swargarohini peaks ) and Yudhishthira and the dog ( form taken by Yamraj ) had climbed the Swargarohini glacier to the top and not the Swargarohini peak.

	In the Upayana Parva of the [[Mahabharata]], various hill tribes from the hill and mountain region of what is now [[Garhwal division\|Garhwal]] are mentioned as giving gifts to [[Yudhishthira]] during his [[Rajasuya]] [[yagna]], including the Taganas, [[Kirata~~\|Kiratas~~]] and [[Kuninda Kingdom\|Kunindas]]. [[Parashurama\|Parshurama]] killed his mother [[Renuka]] at Nakuri, 10 km from Uttarkashi town. Also, it is said the [[Pandava]]s, after leaving their kingdom to [[Parikshit]], halted at Patangini before continuing to Swargarohini, where they died.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web\|title=Uttar Pradesh District Gazetteers: Uttarkashi\|url=http://www.indianculture.gov.in/gazettes/uttar-pradesh-district-gazetteers-uttarkashi\|access-date=2021-05-23\|website=INDIAN CULTURE\|language=en}}</ref>		In the Upayana Parva of the [[Mahabharata]], various hill tribes from the hill and mountain region of what is now [[Garhwal division\|Garhwal]] are mentioned as giving gifts to [[Yudhishthira]] during his [[Rajasuya]] [[yagna]], including the Taganas, [[Kirata]]s and [[Kuninda Kingdom\|Kunindas]]. [[Parashurama\|Parshurama]] killed his mother [[Renuka]] at Nakuri, 10 km from Uttarkashi town. Also, it is said the [[Pandava]]s, after leaving their kingdom to [[Parikshit]], halted at Patangini before continuing to Swargarohini, where they died.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web\|title=Uttar Pradesh District Gazetteers: Uttarkashi\|url=http://www.indianculture.gov.in/gazettes/uttar-pradesh-district-gazetteers-uttarkashi\|access-date=2021-05-23\|website=INDIAN CULTURE\|language=en}}</ref>

	==Climbing history==		==Climbing history==

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2021-10-01T17:27:10Z

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← Older revision		Revision as of 22:57, 1 October 2021
Line 35:		Line 35:
	But the legends further gets complicated as many claim that the Pandavas had taken a route from the present town of Badrinath in the eastern part of Garhwal, Uttarakhand, which is very far apart from the Swargarohini peaks in Sankari range of western Garhwal. AHead of Badrinath, Mana and onwards to Satopanth Lake, one can see the Swargarohini Glacier ( no relation to Swargarohini peaks ) and Yudhishthira and the dog ( form taken by Yamraj ) had climbed the Swargarohini glacier to the top and not the Swargarohini peak.		But the legends further gets complicated as many claim that the Pandavas had taken a route from the present town of Badrinath in the eastern part of Garhwal, Uttarakhand, which is very far apart from the Swargarohini peaks in Sankari range of western Garhwal. AHead of Badrinath, Mana and onwards to Satopanth Lake, one can see the Swargarohini Glacier ( no relation to Swargarohini peaks ) and Yudhishthira and the dog ( form taken by Yamraj ) had climbed the Swargarohini glacier to the top and not the Swargarohini peak.

	In the Upayana Parva of the [[Mahabharata]], various hill tribes from the hill and mountain region of what is now [[Garhwal division\|Garhwal]] are mentioned as giving gifts to [[Yudhishthira]] during his [[Rajasuya]] [[yagna]], including the Taganas, [[Kirata\|Kiratas]] and [[Kuninda Kingdom\|Kunindas]]. [[Parashurama\|Parshurama]] killed his mother [[Renuka]] at Nakuri, 10 km from Uttarkashi town. Also, it is said the [[Pandava]]s, after leaving their kingdom to [[Parikshit]], halted at Patangini before continuing to [[Swargarohini]], where they died.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web\|title=Uttar Pradesh District Gazetteers: Uttarkashi\|url=http://www.indianculture.gov.in/gazettes/uttar-pradesh-district-gazetteers-uttarkashi\|access-date=2021-05-23\|website=INDIAN CULTURE\|language=en}}</ref>		In the Upayana Parva of the [[Mahabharata]], various hill tribes from the hill and mountain region of what is now [[Garhwal division\|Garhwal]] are mentioned as giving gifts to [[Yudhishthira]] during his [[Rajasuya]] [[yagna]], including the Taganas, [[Kirata\|Kiratas]] and [[Kuninda Kingdom\|Kunindas]]. [[Parashurama\|Parshurama]] killed his mother [[Renuka]] at Nakuri, 10 km from Uttarkashi town. Also, it is said the [[Pandava]]s, after leaving their kingdom to [[Parikshit]], halted at Patangini before continuing to Swargarohini, where they died.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web\|title=Uttar Pradesh District Gazetteers: Uttarkashi\|url=http://www.indianculture.gov.in/gazettes/uttar-pradesh-district-gazetteers-uttarkashi\|access-date=2021-05-23\|website=INDIAN CULTURE\|language=en}}</ref>

	==Climbing history==		==Climbing history==

imported>Rodw: Disambiguating links to Garhwal (link changed to Garhwal division) using DisamAssist.

2021-08-23T19:04:57Z

Disambiguating links to Garhwal (link changed to Garhwal division) using DisamAssist.

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{{short description|Mountain massif in Uttarakhand, India}}
{{Use Indian English|date=July 2015}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=July 2015}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Swargarohini
| photo = Swargarohini and Bandarpunch in the Himalaya, from Landour.jpg
| photo_caption = Swargarohini and Bandarpunch massifs
| elevation_m = 6252
| elevation_ref = <ref name="carter">H. Adams Carter, "Classification of the Himalaya", ''[[American Alpine Journal]]'', 1985, p. 141.</ref>
| prominence_m =
| prominence_ref=
| location = [[Uttarakhand]], [[India]]
| listing =
| range = [[Himalayas|Garhwal Himalaya]]
| map = India Uttarakhand
| coordinates = {{coord|31|05|04|N|78|30|58|E|region:IN_type:mountain}}
| coordinates_ref = <ref name="carter"/>
| topo =
| type =
| age =
| first_ascent = 1990 by a team from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering
| easiest_route = technical rock/snow/ice climb
}}

'''Swargarohini''' is a [[mountain]] [[massif]] in the [[Bandarpunch|Saraswati]] (Bandarpunch) Range of the [[Garhwal Division|Garhwal]] [[Himalaya]]. It lies in the [[Uttarkashi District]] of the northern [[India]]n state of [[Uttarakhand]], west of the [[Gangotri]] group of peaks. It comprises four separate peaks, the main peak Swargarohini I is the subject of this article.

'''Swargarohini I''', while not particularly high by Himalayan standards, and not the highest in the Bandarpunch range, it is notable for its dramatic local relief. Since its north face drops {{Convert|2000|m|ft|-1}} in less than {{Convert|2|km|mi|1}} of horizontal distance, and its south face achieves the same drop in less than {{Convert|3|km|mi|1}}, the climb is steep and challenging. Swargarohini I has two summits, east and west. The '''Swargarohini I West''' is slightly higher than the '''Swargarohini I East''' summit, the later has an elevation of {{Convert|6247|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}. However, the first ascensionists of the ''Swargarohini I West'' peak claim that that summit is the higher of the two.<ref name="aaj_1976">Kamal K. Guha, "Swargarohini", ''[[American Alpine Journal]]'', 1976, p. 527.</ref>

This snow-clad peak is the source of the [[Tons River]] and along with the [[Bandarpunch]] massif it acts as a watershed between the [[Yamuna]] and the [[Bhagirathi]] Rivers.

==History==

Swargarohini derives its name from the legends associated with it from the hindu epic [[Mahabharata]]. In the final section of the epic, the Pandavas give up kingdom and travel northwards in the hope of reaching heaven.
The peaks are said to be the stairway to heaven that was followed by [[Pandavas]], but only [[Yudhishthira]], the eldest of the Pandavas, is able to reach heaven. According to the legends it is believed that this is the only way one can go to heaven without dying.
But the legends further gets complicated as many claim that the Pandavas had taken a route from the present town of Badrinath in the eastern part of Garhwal, Uttarakhand, which is very far apart from the Swargarohini peaks in Sankari range of western Garhwal. AHead of Badrinath, Mana and onwards to Satopanth Lake, one can see the Swargarohini Glacier ( no relation to Swargarohini peaks ) and Yudhishthira and the dog ( form taken by Yamraj ) had climbed the Swargarohini glacier to the top and not the Swargarohini peak.

In the Upayana Parva of the [[Mahabharata]], various hill tribes from the hill and mountain region of what is now [[Garhwal division|Garhwal]] are mentioned as giving gifts to [[Yudhishthira]] during his [[Rajasuya]] [[yagna]], including the Taganas, [[Kirata|Kiratas]] and [[Kuninda Kingdom|Kunindas]]. [[Parashurama|Parshurama]] killed his mother [[Renuka]] at Nakuri, 10 km from Uttarkashi town. Also, it is said the [[Pandava]]s, after leaving their kingdom to [[Parikshit]], halted at Patangini before continuing to [[Swargarohini]], where they died.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|title=Uttar Pradesh District Gazetteers: Uttarkashi|url=http://www.indianculture.gov.in/gazettes/uttar-pradesh-district-gazetteers-uttarkashi|access-date=2021-05-23|website=INDIAN CULTURE|language=en}}</ref>

==Climbing history==

By 1994, there have been fifteen documented attempts had been made to climb Swargarohini peak.<ref name="aaj_1994">Ake Nilsson, "Swargarohini", ''[[American Alpine Journal]]'', 1994, p. 236.</ref> On 25 October 1974, Charles Clarke ([[United Kingdom|England]]); Dilsher Singh Virk, Peter Fuhrman and Bruce MacKinnon ([[Canada]]); and Mohan Singh and Rattan Singh ([[India]]) made the first ascent of the west summit of Swargarohini I, ascending from its west side.<ref name="aaj_1976"/>

On 3 May 1990, the first successful ascent of main Swargarohini summit was achieved by a team of instructors from the [[Jawahar Institute of Mountaineering and Winter Sports]]. They climbed from the Ruinsara Valley on the north side, via the eastern [[mountain pass|col]] connecting the peak to the rest of the range, and found challenging [[rock climbing]] to achieve the col, leading to easier snow slopes above.<ref name="kapadia_1991">Harish Kapadia, "Swargarohini I", ''[[American Alpine Journal]]'', 1991, pp. 255-256.</ref> However, other sources claim that this ascent stopped ({{Convert|5|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}) short of the summit due to the presence of an unstable [[cornice (snow)|cornice]].<ref name="aaj_1994"/>

In 1991, an unsuccessfully attempt was made on the south face of the peak.<ref name="kapadia_1992">Harish Kapadia, "Swargarohini I, South Face Attempt", ''[[American Alpine Journal]]'', 1992, p.238.</ref>

On 7 June 1993, an expedition from [[Sweden]] made the first undisputed ascent of the peak from south face. The summit team comprised Birger Andrén, Ingela Nilsson, and Ake Nilsson. They ascended a rock ridge on the eastern side of the south face, leading to the easy east-southeast ridge.<ref name="aaj_1994"/>

{{wide image|Swargrohini Peaks, view from Dhanaulti.jpg|400px|alt=Swargarohini Mountains Range and Buransh Flower}}

==See also==

* [[Geography of Uttarakhand]]
* [[Geology of the Himalaya]]
* [[List of Himalayan peaks of Uttarakhand]]

==References==
{{reflist}}

[[Category:Geography of Uttarkashi district]]
[[Category:Mountains of Uttarakhand]]
[[Category:Six-thousanders of the Himalayas]]