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{{short description|Attire of the Muslim Aristocracy of the Indian Sub-Continent}}
{{EngvarB|date=March 2017}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=March 2017}}
[[File:CHOWMAHALLA PALACE Royal painting.jpg|thumb|400px|<center>Painting of [[Mir Osman Ali Khan|last Nizam]] of [[Hyderabad state|Hyderabad]] accompanies by men some of whom are sporting sherwanis.</center>]]
'''Sherwani''' is a long-sleeved outer coat worn by men in South Asia. Like the Western [[frock coat]] it is fitted, with some waist suppression; it falls to below the knees and is buttoned down the front. It can be collarless, have a shirt-style collar, or a stand-up collar in the style of the [[Mandarin collar]].<ref name=tarlo-page-xii>{{citation|last=Tarlo|first=Emma|title=Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India|publisher =University of Chicago Press|year=1996|page=xii|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ByoTXhXCuyAC&pg=PR12|quote=Glossary: ''Sherwani'' Men's long coat, usually collarless}}</ref>
It evolved in India in the 19th-century as a result of the outer garment of the late [[Mughal Empire|Mughal]] period, the [[angarkha]], itself evolved from the Persian cape, ''balaba'', being given a western style with a button-down front.<ref name=tarlo-page-47>{{citation|last=Tarlo|first=Emma|title=Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India|publisher =University of Chicago Press|year=1996|page=47|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ByoTXhXCuyAC&pg=PA47|quote=The historian Abdul Halim Sharar ... shows how the Persian cape (''balaba'', ''chapkan'') was gradually given a more Indian form (''angarkha''), and finally developed into the ''sherwani'' which had buttons down the front, following European fashion. In the early stages wealthy men's robes were made from the luxury fabrics of muslin and silk and often embroidered. But as they became more Europeanised, they became increasingly like the Englishman's frock coat, made from heavy dull material with less ornamentation and given tight sleeves. Some men added a white shirt collar to the ''sherwani'' to complete the look.}}</ref>

== Etymology ==
The name of the attire is plausibly derived from [[Shirvan]] or Sherwan, a region of present-day [[Azerbaijan]] due to the folk dress of that area ([[Chokha]]) which resembles Sherwani in its outlook. Therefore, the garment may also be a [[Mughal Empire|Mughalized]] derivative of the Caucasian dress due to the ethnocultural linkages of Turco-Persian affinity during the Middle Ages.

==History==

[[File:Siryedazam.jpg|thumb|200px|right| The founders of [[Aligarh movement]] wearing sherwani, [[Mohsin-ul-Mulk|Nawab Mohsin ul Mulk]] (left), [[Sir Syed Ahmed Khan]] (centre), Justice [[Syed Mahmood]] (right).]]

Sherwani originated in the 18th century in South Asia, before being more generally adopted in the late 19th century. It is originally associated with Muslim [[aristocracy]] during the period of British rule.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=Jhala |first=Angma Dey |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=WGpECgAAQBAJ&q=sherwani+british+frock+coat&pg=PA57 |title=Royal Patronage, Power and Aesthetics in Princely India |date=2015-10-06 |publisher=Routledge |isbn=978-1-317-31657-2 |language=en}}</ref>
According to Emma Tarlo, the sherwani evolved from a Persian cape (balaba or [[Chapan|chapkan]]), which was gradually given a more Indian form (''[[angarkha]]''), and finally developed into the sherwani, with buttons down the front, following European fashion.<ref name="origin">{{Cite book |last=Tarlo |first=Emma |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8wyM5heEc9gC&q=Sherwani&pg=PA28 |title=Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India |date=1996 |publisher=Hurst |isbn=978-1-85065-176-5 |language=en}}</ref> It originated in the 19th century [[British India]] as the European style court dress of regional [[Mughal Empire|Mughal]] nobles and royals of northern India,<ref name=":0" /> before being more generally adopted in the late 19th century. It appeared first at [[Lucknow]] in the 1820s.<ref name="auto1">{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=eioXAgAAQBAJ&q=sherwani+british+frock+coat&pg=PT305 |title=The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective |date=29 January 1988 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |isbn=978-1-107-39297-7}}</ref> It was gradually adopted by rest of the royalty and [[aristocracy]] of Indian Subcontinent, and later by the general population, as a more evolved form of occasional traditional attire. The name of the attire is plausibly derived from [[Shirvan]] or Sherwan, a region of present-day [[Azerbaijan]] due to the folk dress of that area ([[Chokha]]) which resembles Sherwani in its outlook. Therefore, the garment may also be a Mughalized derivative of the Caucasian dress due to the ethnocultural linkages of Turco-Persian affinity during the Middle Ages.

==Description==
[[File:Nawabs of Bhawalpur in Sherwani..jpg|thumb|<center>[[Nawab of Bahawalpur]] in various styles of sherwani|alt=|325x325px]]
Sherwani evolved from a Persian cape (balaba or [[Chapan|chapkan]]) and was developed into the sherwani, with buttons down the front, following European fashion.<ref name="origin" /><ref name="auto1"/>

==Use==
Sherwani is now famous as a [[wedding]] outfit and it has always been popular as an outfit which can be worn on formal events.<ref name =ONE>{{Cite web |title=The Traditional Dress: Sherwani |url=https://ricimelion.com/blogs/news/the-traditional-dress-sherwani |access-date=2021-07-27 |website=RiciMelion |language=en}}</ref> The sherwani signified [[dignity]] and [[etiquette]] of the nobility and it used to be the court dress of the nobles of [[Turkic peoples|Turkish]] and [[Persians|Persian origin]]. It is the national dress of [[Pakistan]] for men. A sherwani carries a regal feel.<ref>{{Cite web |title=What is a Sherwani? |url=http://www.bhangrakids.com/info/sherwani.shtml |access-date=2021-07-27 |website=www.bhangrakids.com}}</ref>

==India==
{{Main|Achkan}}
In India, the [[achkan]] has been generally worn, which is a much shorter than sherwani. The achkan was worn on formal occasions in winter, especially by those from [[Rajasthan]], [[Punjab, India|Punjab]], [[Delhi]], [[Jammu]], Uttar Pradesh and [[Hyderabad, Telangana|Hyderabad]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1432&context=tsaconf|title=Shifting Sands: Costume in Rajasthan}}</ref> The achkan is generally associated with the Hindus while the sherwani was historically and is favored by Muslims.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Langkjær |first=Michael Alexander |title=From Cool to Un-cool to Re-cool: Nehru and Mao tunics in the sixties and post-sixties West |url=https://www.academia.edu/14599317 |journal=Global Textile Encounters, ed. Marie-Louise Nosch, Zhao Feng, and Lotika Varadarajan. Ancient Textiles Series, Vol. 20, Pp. 227-236 |via=www.academia.edu}}</ref> The two garments have significant similarities, though sherwanis typically are more flared at the hips and achkans are lengthier than simple sherwanis. The achkan later evolved into the [[Nehru Jacket]], which is now popular in India.<ref name="auto">{{Cite web|title=Nehru's style statement|url=http://www.tehelka.com/2016/01/nehrus-style-statement/}}</ref> In India, the achkan or sherwani is generally worn with the combination of ''[[Churidar]]'' as the lower garment.<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=FLIwDAAAQBAJ&q=achkan+with+churidar&pg=PA273 |title=Altogether book |isbn=978-93-259-7971-0}}</ref>
<gallery widths="200" heights="200">
File:Nehru Roerich.jpg|[[Jawaharlal Nehru]] (left) wearing an achkan with churidar.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Nehru's style statement |url=http://www.tehelka.com/2016/01/nehrus-style-statement/}}</ref>
File:Rajput Sherwani 2014-04-23 04-27.JPG|''[[Achkan]]'' sherwani and ''[[churidar]]'' (lower body) worn by [[Arvind Singh Mewar]] and his kin during a [[Hindu wedding]] in Rajasthan, India.
</gallery>

===In Bangladesh===
In [[Bangladesh]], the sherwani is worn by people on formal occasions such as weddings and [[wikt:Eid|Eid]].{{Citation needed|date=July 2021}}

==Pakistan==
[[File:Jinnah speaking on 14 August 1947.jpg|thumb|200px|[[Jinnah]] (right) addressing the Constituent Assembly on 14 August 1947, wearing a sherwani.]]
After the independence of [[Pakistan]], [[Muhammad Ali Jinnah]] frequently wore the sherwani.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Ahmed |first=Akbar S. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=YGdiqF6V8wYC&pg=PA99 |title=Jinnah, Pakistan and Islamic Identity: The Search for Saladin |date=1997 |publisher=Psychology Press |isbn=978-0-415-14966-2 |pages=99–}}</ref> Following him, most people and government officials in Pakistan such as the President and Prime Minister started to wear the formal black sherwani over the shalwar [[kameez]] on state occasions and national holidays.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|title=The Traditional Dress: Sherwani|url=https://ricimelion.com/blogs/news/the-traditional-dress-sherwani|access-date=2021-08-08|website=RiciMelion|language=en}}</ref> General [[Muhammad Zia-ul-Haq]] made it compulsory for all officers to wear sherwani on state occasions and national holidays.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.coursehero.com/file/89809687/A-little-bit-background-of-Sherwanidocx/|access-date=2021-08-08|website=www.coursehero.com}}</ref>
<gallery widths="200" heights="200">
File:Muhammad Ali Jinnah sitting on the Chair of Governer General wearing a Sherwani.jpg|[[Muhammad Ali Jinnah]], founder of [[Pakistan]], is sitting on the Chair of Governor General, sometimes referred as [[Pakistan|Pakistan's]] Throne, wearing Sherwani.
File:Muhammad Ali Jinnah with Fatima Jinnah.jpg|[[Muhammad Ali Jinnah]] (right), standing with his sister [[Fatima Jinnah]] (left), Leading member of [[Pakistan Movement]]. [[Muhammad Ali Jinnah]] is wearing a Sherwani and [[Fatima Jinnah]] is also wearing a female Sherwani.
File:Nawaz Sharif wearing Sherwani with William Cohen, 981203-D-9880W-117 (cropped).jpg|[[Nawaz Sharif]], longest-serving [[Prime Minister of Pakistan]], wearing Sherwani in Washington in 1998
</gallery>

===In Sri Lanka===
In Sri Lanka, Sherwani was generally worn as the formal uniform of [[Ceylonese Mudaliyars|Mudaliyar]]s and early Tamil legislators during the British colonial period. It is now no longer worn in Sri Lanka.{{Citation needed|date=July 2021}}

===Modern sherwanis===
Sherwanis are mostly worn in Pakistan, India and Bangladesh.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Marcus|first=Lauren|date=2013-12-01|title=Sources: Encyclopedia of National Dress: Traditional Clothing Around the World|journal=Reference & User Services Quarterly|volume=53|issue=2|pages=197–198|doi=10.5860/rusq.53n2.197c|issn=1094-9054|doi-access=free}}</ref>{{rp|571}} These garments usually feature detailed embroidery or patterns. One major difference between sherwani wearing habits is the choice of lower garment, while in India, the dress is distinguished by their preference for [[churidar]]s or [[pyjama]]s, in Pakistan and Bangladesh, it is mainly worn with [[shalwar]] instead.

Pakistani journalist, filmmaker and activist, [[Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy]] appeared in sherwani to receive [[Academy Award]] in 2012 and 2015.<ref>{{Cite news |title=Pakistan's Oscar triumph for acid attack film Saving Face |work=[[BBC News]] |publisher=Nosheen Abbas |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-17180530 |access-date=28 December 2014}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Oscar-winning Pakistani Filmmaker Inspired by Canada |url=http://www.cbc.ca/news/arts/story/2012/02/28/oscar-saving-face-obaid-chinoy.html}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |last=Clark |first=Alex |date=14 February 2016 |title=The case of Saba Qaiser and the film-maker determined to put an end to 'honour' killings |language=en-GB |work=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/film/2016/feb/14/sharmeen-obaid-chinoy-interview-saba-qaiser-honour-killing-documentary-girl-river-oscar-nomination |access-date=18 February 2016 |issn=0261-3077}}</ref><ref name="dawn.com">{{Cite web |date=24 January 2012 |title=Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy is Pakistan's First Oscar Nominee |url=http://www.dawn.com/2012/01/24/sharmeen-obaid-chinoy-is-pakistan%E2%80%99s-first-oscar-nominee.html |access-date=24 January 2011}}</ref><ref name="cbc.ca">{{Cite web |title=Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy fights to end honour killings with her film A Girl in the River |url=http://www.cbc.ca/radio/thecurrent/the-current-for-february-12-2016-1.3445325/sharmeen-obaid-chinoy-fights-to-end-honour-killings-with-her-film-a-girl-in-the-river-1.3445369 |access-date=18 February 2016 |website=www.cbc.ca}}</ref>

==See also==
* [[Achkan]]
* [[Angarkha]]
* [[Coat (clothing)|Coat]]
* [[Frock coat]]
* [[Jodhpuri]]
* [[Chokha]]

==References==
{{reflist}}

{{Commons category| Sherwani}}

{{Pakistani clothing}}
{{Clothing in South Asia}}
{{Folk costume}}

[[Category:Bangladeshi clothing]]
[[Category:Indian clothing]]
[[Category:Pakistani clothing]]
[[Category:Pakistani wedding clothing]]
[[Category:Coats (clothing)]]
[[Category:Indian wedding clothing]]
[[Category:British India]]

Sherwani - Revision history

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