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{{Short description|Mountain in Pakistan}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Rakaposhi
| native_name ={{native name|ur|{{Nastaliq|راکاپوشی / رَکی پُوشِہ}}}}
| photo = Rakaposhi The Beast.jpg
| photo_caption =
| elevation_m = 7788
| elevation_ref = <ref name="pb"/><br />[[List of highest mountains|Ranked 27th]]
| prominence_m = 2818
| prominence_ref = <ref name="peaklist"/><br />[[List of peaks by prominence|Ranked 122nd]]
| range = Rakaposhi, [[Karakoram]]
| parent_peak =
| location = between [[Nagar Valley]] and District Gilgit, [[Gilgit-Baltistan]], Pakistan
| map = Pakistan#Gilgit Baltistan
| range_coordinates =
| listing = [[Ultra prominent peak|Ultra]]
| map_size = 260
| map_caption = Location in Nagar valley, Gilgit-Baltistan
| label_position = bottom
| coordinates = {{coord|36|08|33|N|74|29|21|E|type:mountain_region:PK_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref = <ref name="peaklist"/>
| first_ascent = 1958 by [[Mike Banks (mountaineer)|Mike Banks]] and [[Tom Patey]]
| easiest_route = Southwest Spur - glacier/snow/ice
| embedded = {{Infobox mapframe |wikidata=yes |coord={{WikidataCoord|display=i}}}}
}}

'''Rakaposhi''' ({{lang-ur|{{Nastaliq|راکاپوشی / رَکی پُوشِہ}}}}) is a mountain in the [[Karakoram]] mountain range in the [[Gilgit-Baltistan]] territory of Pakistan.<ref name="pb"/>

==Geography==
{{unreferenced section|date=February 2022}}
Rakaposhi is a mountain in the [[Karakoram]] mountain range in the [[Gilgit-Baltistan]] territory of Pakistan, about {{convert|100|km|mi|0|abbr=on}} north of the city of [[Gilgit]].<ref name="pb"/> It is ranked [[List of highest mountains|27th-highest]] in the world. Rakaposhi rises over the [[Bagrot Valley|Bagrot]], [[Nagar Valley|Nagar]], and [[Hunza Valley|Hunza valleys]]

Rakaposhi is the only mountain in the world with more than 5,000 meters height between base camp and the summit; by contrast all of the other tallest mountains in the world have less than 5,000 meters from base camp to top.{{cn|date=May 2022}}

The first successful recorded ascent by non-natives was in 1958 by [[Mike Banks (mountaineer)|Mike Banks]] and [[Tom Patey]], members of a [[United Kingdom|British]] expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route.

==Park==
Rakaposhi is also known as Dumani ("Mother of Mist" or "Mother of Clouds").{{cn|date=February 2022}}
The people of [[Nagar, Pakistan|Nagar]] and [[Bagrot Valley]] have dedicated the Rakaposhi range mountain area as a community park. The Minister for Northern Areas inaugurated the park. The Rakaposhi mountain range is the home of [[endangered species]] such as [[Marco Polo sheep]], [[snow leopard]], [[brown bear]], and [[wolf|wolves]].<ref>{{cite web|title=Hunza Adventure Tours|url=https://www.hunzaadventuretours.com.pk/wildlife_of_pakistan.html|website=HunzaATP}}</ref>
[[File:Rakaposhi - View from across the valley.jpg|thumb|Rakaposhi as viewed from the road across the valley.]]

==Notable features==
Rakaposhi is notable for its exceptional rise over local terrain. On the north, it rises {{convert|5900|m|ft|0}} in only an 11.2 km (7 mi) horizontal distance from the Hunza River. There are views of Rakaposhi from the [[Karakoram Highway]] on the route through Nagar. A tourist spot in the town of Gilgit (located in the [[Bagrot Valley|bagrote valley]] ) called "Zero Point of Rakaposhi" is the closest view point of the mountain.<blockquote>Rakaposhi is the only mountain in the world which rises straight from beautifully cultivated fields to the height of 25,550 feet. From many places this wonderful spectacle can be viewed right from the base to the top.<ref>''Karakuram Hunza: The Land of Just Enough''. S. Shahid Hamid. Karachi, 1979, p. 10.</ref></blockquote>

==Time line==
{{More citations needed section|date=October 2017}}
[[File:Panoramio-134035584.jpg|alt=|thumb|Front view of Rakaposhi Peak from [[Bagrot Valley|Bagrote Valley]], [[Gilgit]]]]
* 1892 [[Martin Conway, 1st Baron Conway of Allington|Martin Conway]] explores the south side of Rakaposhi.<ref name=AAJ1957/>
* 1938 M. Vyvyan and R. Campbell Secord make the first reconnaissance and climb a north-western forepeak (about {{convert|5800|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}}) via the northwest ridge.
* 1947 Secord returns with [[Bill Tilman|H. W. Tilman]] and two Swiss climbers, Hans Gyr and Robert Kappeler; they ascend via the Gunti glacier to 5,800 m (19,000 ft) on the south-west spur.
* 1954 [[University of Cambridge|Cambridge University]] team, led by Alfred Tissières, attempts the peak via the south-west spur but only reached 6,340 m (20,800 ft). Also, an Austro-German expedition led by Mathias Rebitsch attempted the same route.
* 1956 A British-American expedition, led by Mike Banks, reaches 7,163 m (23,500 ft) on the Southwest Ridge, above the Gunti glacier.<ref name=AAJ1957/>
* 1958 The first successful recorded ascent by non-natives: [[Mike Banks (mountaineer)|Mike Banks]] and [[Tom Patey]], members of a [[United Kingdom|British]] expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route.<ref name=AAJ1959/><ref name=summitpost/> Both of them suffered minor [[frostbite]] during the ascent to the summit on June 25. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.
* 1964 An Irish expedition attempts the long and difficult Northwest Ridge.
* 1971 Karl Herrligkofer leads an attempt on the elegant but difficult North Spur (or North Ridge).
* 1973 Herrligkofer returns to the North Spur but is again unsuccessful due to time and weather problems.
* 1979 A Polish-Pakistani expedition ascends the Northwest Ridge from the Biro Glacier.<ref name=AAJ1980/>
* 1979 A Japanese expedition from [[Waseda University]], led by Eiho Ohtani, succeeds in climbing the North Spur. Summit party: Ohtani and Matsushi Yamashita. This ascent was expedition-style, done over a period of six weeks, with 5000 m of fixed rope.
* 1984 A Canadian team achieves a semi-alpine-style ascent of the North Spur, using much less fixed rope than the Japanese team had. Summit party: [[Barry Blanchard]], David Cheesmond, Kevin Doyle.<ref name=AAJ1985/>
* 1985-1987 Various unsuccessful attempts on the long East Ridge.
* 1986 A Dutch team climbs a variation of the Northwest Ridge route.
* 1995 An ascent via the Northwest Ridge.
* 1997 An ascent via the Southwest Spur/Ridge (possibly the original route).
* 2000 An attempt from the east side [[Bagrot Valley]] Hinercha Glacier.
* 2002 A Canadian caliber attempt period of 2 weeks from front side of base camp Hinercha glacier [[Bagrot Valley|Bagrote]] valley gilgit east side.{{clarify|date=July 2019}}
*2004 An attempt from the east side [[Bagrot Valley]] Hinercha Glacier.

==Climbing routes==
[[File:Diran view from Tagaphari.jpg|thumb|right|A view of [[Diran]] from Tagaferi Base Camp after Sunrise.]]
[[File:Rakaposhi bagrote valley gilgit.jpg|thumb|Incredible beauty of Rakaposhi from Bagrot Valley, Gilgit.]]
{{unreferenced section|date=February 2022}}
The routes with successful summits so far have been (see the timeline as well):
* Southwest Spur/Ridge (first ascent route). Long, but not exceedingly technical. Some tricky [[gendarme (mountaineering)|gendarmes]] (rock pinnacles). Has been repeated.
* From the east side, it is short route to climb
* Northwest Ridge. Long, and more technically difficult than the Southwest Spur/Ridge. Has been repeated.
* North Spur (a.k.a. North Ridge). Shorter than the above two routes, but much more technically difficult. Has been repeated, including a semi-[[alpine style]] (capsule style) ascent.

Attempts have also been made from the east side [[Bagrot Valley]] Hinearcha Glacier, the East Ridge, and the North Face.

==See also==
* [[List of highest mountains|Highest mountains of the world]]
* [[List of Ultras of the Karakoram and Hindu Kush]]
* [[List of mountains in Pakistan]]

==References==
{{Reflist|refs=
<ref name=AAJ1957>
{{cite journal | last = Irvin | first = Richard K. | title = Rakaposhi — Almost
| journal = [[American Alpine Journal]] | department = Feature Article
| volume = 10 | issue = 2 | pages = 54 | year = 1957
| publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA
| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195705400/Rakaposhi-Almost
| access-date = 2016-06-24}}</ref>
<ref name=AAJ1959>
{{cite journal | last = Banks | first = Michael | title = Himalaya, Pakistan, Rakaposhi
| journal = [[American Alpine Journal]] | department = Climbs And Expeditions
| volume = 11 | issue = 2 | pages = 328 | year = 1959
| publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA
| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195932803/Himalaya-Pakistan-Rakaposhi
| access-date = 2016-06-24}}</ref>
<ref name=AAJ1980>
{{cite journal | last = Nyka | first = Józef | title = Rakaposhi, Second Ascent by New Route, Northwest and Southwest Ridges
| journal = [[American Alpine Journal]] | department = Climbs And Expeditions
| year = 1980
| publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA
| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198065102/Asia-PakistanKarakoram-Rakaposhi-Second-Ascent-by-New-Route-Northwest-and-Southwest-Ridges
| access-date = 2017-10-08}}</ref>
<ref name=AAJ1985>
{{cite journal | last = Cheesmond | first = David M. | title = The North Face of Rakaposhi
| journal = [[American Alpine Journal]] | department = Feature Article
| volume = 27 | issue = 59 | pages = 53 | year = 1985
| publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA
| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198505300/The-North-Face-of-Rakaposhi
| access-date = 2016-06-24}}</ref>
<ref name="pb">
{{cite peakbagger|pid=10512|name=Rakaposhi|access-date=25 September 2011}}</ref>
<ref name="peaklist">
{{cite web|url=http://peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/karakoram.html|title=Karakoram ultras
| publisher=peaklist.org|access-date=25 September 2011}}</ref>
<ref name=summitpost>
{{cite web|url=http://www.summitpost.org/rakaposhi/173510|title=Climbing details|publisher=summitpost.org|access-date=25 September 2011}}</ref>
}}

==Sources==
* {{cite book | author = Neate, Jill |title = High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks |year = 1989 | isbn = 0-89886-238-8}}
* {{cite book | author1 = Fanshawe, Andy |author2 = Venables, Stephen
| title = Himalaya Alpine-Style | publisher = Hodder and Stoughton | year = 1995 | isbn = 0-89886-456-9}}
* [http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/index.htm Himalayan Index]
* [http://www.viewfinderpanoramas.org/dem3.html#himalayas DEM files for the Himalaya/Karakoram] (Corrected versions of SRTM data)

==External links==
{{commons}}
* [http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/173510/rakaposhi.html Rakaposhi on Summitpost.org]
* [http://www.peaklist.org/spire/lists/world-25.html A list of mountains by local relief and steepness] showing Rakaposhi as the world #3.
* [http://bbs.keyhole.com/ubb/showthreaded.php/Cat/0/Number/420123/an/0/page/0#420123 Northern Pakistan - highly detailed place marks of towns, villages, peaks, glaciers, rivers and minor tributaries in Google Earth]
*[http://www.naqoosh.com/rakaposhi-base-camp-trek/ A Quick approach through lovely meadows leads to the base camp of RAKAPOSHI]

{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Rakaposhi| ]]
[[Category:Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram]]
[[Category:Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan]]

Rakaposhi - Revision history

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