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{{short description|Type of sarong and shirt, traditional costume in Punjab}}
[[File:Punjabi boys in their traditional dress.jpg|thumb|Punjabi Kurta and chaadra]]
{{Punjabis}}
[[File:Bhangra Dance punjab.jpg|thumb|250px|[[Bhangra (dance)|Bhangra]] Dance performers in Punjab wearing Kurta and Tehmed. ]]
'''Punjabi Kurta and Tamba''' are traditional costume for men of [[Punjab]].

==Punjabi Tamba==

===Tamba/Tehmed/Lungi===
[[File:Punjabi Nachey-6.JPG|thumb|right|Punjabi kurta and tehmed]]
[[File:Milk vender with typical traditional brass containers , Gagar ,used in Majha Region of Punjab 01.jpg|thumb|left|Milk vendor with typical traditional brass containers, Gagar, used in Majha Region of Punjab wearing traditional clothes]]
The tamba, which is also called tehmed<ref>Development: A Saga of Two Worlds: Vismambhor Nath 2002 (Ashok Mukar Mittal Publishers)</ref><ref>Lahore: A Sentimental Journey Pran Neville Penguin Books</ref> is the Punjabi version of the [[lungi]] which has folds at the front and is the traditional dress for Punjabi men. The tamba is worn by [[Bhangra (dance)|Bhangra]] dancers. Although the use of the Punjabi tehmed in [[Punjab, India|East Punjab]] has declined in recent years, being replaced by the pyjama, men can be seen wearing the tehmed and its use has not completely stopped.<ref>Harkesh Singh Kehal (2009) Alop Ho Reha Punjabi Virsa.Lokgeet Parkashan. {{ISBN|81-7142-869-X}}</ref> The tamba or the lungi can also be seen on Punjabi men in [[Punjab, Pakistan|Punjab]] province<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=GQTABKAGaVgC&dq=kurta+new+style+punjab&pg=PA119 Malik, Iftikhar Haider (2006) Culture and Customs of Pakistan]</ref><ref>West Pakistan. Public Relations Department(1961) West Pakistan Year Book [https://books.google.com/books?id=FVq2AAAAIAAJ&q=bahawalpur+shalwar]</ref> and adjoining [[Hazara region|Hazara]] region of [[Pakistan]].<ref>Aziz, Khursheed Kamal (1993) The murder of history: a critique of history textbooks used in Pakistan [https://books.google.com/books?id=IXyfAAAAMAAJ&q=punjabi+speaking]</ref> A tehmed is of one colour and has no border. The tehmed or laacha can be long reaching to the heels. It can also be short to just below the knees.<ref>Punjab District Gazetteers - Ferozepur Year Published 1915</ref>

===Laacha===
A laacha differs from the tehmed in that it has a border and is variegated so that it has more than one colour.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=hsNFAQAAIAAJ&q=variegated Punjab District Gazetteers - Gujranwala District Year Published 1935]</ref> The laacha is popular in [[Punjab, Pakistan|West Punjab]].<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=GQTABKAGaVgC&dq=kurta+new+style+punjab&pg=PA119 Malik, Iftikhar Haider (2006) Culture and Customs of Pakistan]</ref> The laacha is worn in a like manner to the tehmed except it has more folds. Women in some parts of Punjab wear the tehmed and the laacha, especially the districts of Gujarat, Gujranwala, Shahpur and Muzzafargarh.<ref>Saini, B.S. (1975) The Social & Economic History of the Punjab, 1901-1939, Including Haryana & Himachal Pradesh [https://books.google.com/books?id=zPkEAAAAMAAJ&q=shahpur+district+shalwar]</ref>
{{clear}}

==Punjabi Kurta==
The Punjabi kurta<ref>Panjab University Research Bulletin: Arts, Volume 13, Issue 1 - Volume 14, Issue 1 (1982)[https://books.google.com/books?id=nvE7AQAAIAAJ&q=+punjabi]</ref> is made of two rectangular pieces with side slits, and a front opening<ref>Population Census of Pakistan, 1961: Dacca. 2.Chittagong. 3.Sylhet. 4.Rajshahi. 5.Khulna. 6.Rangpur. 7.Mymensingh. 8.Comilla. 9.Bakerganj. 10.Noakhali. 11.Bogra. 12.Dinajpur. 13.Jessore. 14.Pabna. 15.Kushtia. 16.Faridpur. 17.Chittagong Hill tracts [https://books.google.com/books?id=SqkZAAAAMAAJ&q=sialkot+++suthan]</ref> below the neck. In the past, it was traditional for men to wear a gold or silver chain (zanjiri) woven around the buttons.<ref>Kehal, Harkesh Singh (2011) Alop ho riha Punjabi virsa bhag dooja. Lokgeet Parkashan. {{ISBN|978-93-5017-532-3}}</ref>

This form of kurta gradually began to replace the older angarkha worn in the [[Punjab region]] which fell to the knees,<ref>Smith, Ronald Vivian (2008) Capital Vignettes: A Peep Into Delhi's Ethos [https://books.google.com/books?id=i6-mKS8IwrcC&dq=punjab+angarkha&pg=PT97]</ref> opened to either the left or the right,<ref>[http://revenueharyana.gov.in/html/gazeteers/karnal%20Gazeetter%201892.pdf Haryana Gazeteer 1892] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140501200322/http://revenueharyana.gov.in/html/gazeteers/karnal%20Gazeetter%201892.pdf |date=2014-05-01 }}</ref> and was sometimes known as the anga, the older form of the angarkha and is similar to a gown<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=Vf4InPH0STQC&q=peshwaj+known+as+anga Rajaram Narayan Saletore (1974) Sex Life Under Indian Rulers]</ref><ref>Panjab University Research Bulletin: Arts, Volume 13, Issue 1 - Volume 14, Issue 1 (1982) [https://books.google.com/books?id=nvE7AQAAIAAJ&q=peshwaj+known+as+anga]</ref> or a loose coat and wadded with cotton.<ref>Punjab District Gazetteers - District Attock Year Published 1930 BK-000211-0160 [https://books.google.com/books?id=3MNFAQAAIAAJ&q=+anga]</ref> By the 1960s the Punjabi kurta had almost replaced the angarkha but it was still popular in present-day [[Haryana]].<ref>Mohinder Singh Randhawa.(1960) Punjab: Itihas, Kala, Sahit, te Sabiachar aad.Bhasha Vibhag, Punjab, Patiala.</ref>

The Punjabi form of kurta is popular throughout the sub-continent. It is for this reason that, in [[Bhojpuri region|Bhojpur]], [[Mithila (region)|Mithila]], [[West Bengal]] and [[Bangladesh]]<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.indianmirror.com/culture/clothing/dhoti.html|title = Indian clothes - Traditional Indian Dhoti, Dhoti Kurta, How to Wear a Dhoti, How to Tie Dhoti}}</ref> the kurta is known as 'Panjabi' as the kurta is associated with the Punjab<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=zW30rV_UAskC&dq=why+is+kurta+called+panjabi+in+bengal&pg=PA617 Fraser, Bashabi (2008) Bengal Partition Stories: An Unclosed Chapter]</ref> and considered an article of Punjabi dress.<ref>
Arabinda Biswas, India. Ministry of Information and Broadcasting. Publications Division (1985) Indian Costumes [https://books.google.com/books?id=vdyBAAAAMAAJ&q=why+is+kurta+called+panjabi+in+bengal]</ref> The Punjabi kurta was introduced to [[Assam]] by King Garib Niwaj of [[Manipur]] during his reign sometime between 1709 A.D. and 1749 <ref>Sen, Sirpa ( 1992) Tribes and Castes of Manipur: Description and Select Bibliography [https://books.google.com/books?id=bQQNCU-QWBAC&dq=king+garib+niwaj+reign&pg=PA13]</ref> A.D. where it is also known as Panjabi.<ref>Narendra S. Bisht, T. S. Bankoti (2004) Encyclopaedic Ethnography of the Himalayan Tribes: A-D [https://books.google.com/books?id=JIsjAQAAIAAJ&q=king+garib+niwaj+panjabi]</ref> It is also worn in [[Uttar Pradesh]]<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=6QVuAAAAMAAJ&q=punjabi+kurta Kumar Suresh Singh (2005) People of India: Uttar Pradesh (3 pts.)]</ref> and since the 1960s has been replacing the traditional saluka (short shirt) worn in [[Madhya Pradesh]].<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=HLRhAAAAIAAJ&q=saluka+ Madhya Pradesh District Gazetteers: Raisen (1965)]</ref>
<gallery>
File:Punjabi kurta Ferozepur 1845.jpg|Punjabi straight cut kurta Ferozepur 1845
File:Kurta pajamas for men Indian Dress.jpg|kurta pajama for wedding
File:A punjabi guy in Jeans & Kurta.jpg|Kurta Jeans
File:SikhsInFrancePostcard.jpg|[[British Indian Army|Indian Army]] 15th Sikh Regiment, wearing kurtas, arrives in [[Marseille, France]] on their way to fight the Germans during the [[First World War]]
File:Folk singers in multan.JPG|Folk singers in Multan
</gallery>

===History===
The term [[kurta]] is a generic term to cover different types of upper garments worn by men. Kurta refers to the upper garments worn in [[South Asia]] inspired from garments worn by [[Central Asian]] [[Turkic peoples|Turks]] who spread their use beyond their region, reaching the Indian sub-continent.<ref>Rahman, Abdur (2002) India's Interaction with China, Central and West Asia [https://books.google.com/books?id=NZvpAAAAMAAJ&q=achkan+]</ref>

The traditional male attire for men in India consisted of the [[dhoti]] and an unstitched<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=8wyM5heEc9gC&dq=kurta+angarkha+punjab&pg=PA28 Tarlo, Emma (1996) Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India]</ref> cloth draped around the shoulders extended to cover the upper body.<ref>Vaidya, Chintaman Vinayak (2001) Epic India, Or, India as Described in the Mahabharata and the Ramayana [https://books.google.com/books?id=dmOUq73LZLgC&dq=punjab+angarkha&pg=PA141]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=HuQ2AQAAMAAJ&q=kurta Punjab District Gazetteers: Ibbetson series, 1883-1884 (pub 1883)]</ref><ref>Punjab District Gazetteers - District Attock Year Published 1930 BK-000211-0160</ref>

However, men in [[North India]] especially [[Rajasthan]] and the [[Punjab region]]<ref>Cohn, Bernard S. (1996) Colonialism and Its Forms of Knowledge: The British in India [https://books.google.com/books?id=uIalYaenrTkC&q=jama+dress]</ref> wore the [[Jama costume|jama]] of the Rajput type, the chola (robe)<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=UjZuAAAAMAAJ&q=blue+robes Proceedings - Punjab History Conference (2006)]</ref> (which in the [[Punjab region]] remained popular in some parts as recent as the 1980s),<ref>Survey Report on Village: [[Chandigarh]]. [[Kaimbwala]] (1988) https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=PHIkAQAAMAAJ&q=chola+gown+sikh&dq=chola+gown+sikh&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CEUQ6AEwCGoVChMI0_-WwNjqxgIVYSrbCh0pfwkn</ref> the [[Mughal Empire|Mughal]] [[Jama costume|jama]] and the [[angarkha]] as upper garments, which eventually led to different versions of the kurta being developed, such as the Punjabi [[angarkha]], Punjabi kurta, the Gujarati angarkha and the Rajasthani angarkha, also termed ‘[[kurta]]’.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=KHVGgyIVnOkC&q=rajasthan&pg=PA35 S. And Sahgal, Malik Gettingahead In Social Studies:, Book 3]</ref> A non region specific angarkha is also worn in various areas such as in [[Himachal Pradesh]], [[Uttrakhand]] and [[Uttar Pradesh]].

The Punjabi kurta also draws inspiration from the Mughal kurta,<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=AqdJ7LlfVWUC&dq=islamic+influence+on+hindu+dress&pg=PA141 Impact Of Hindu Culture On Muslims Mohsen Saeidi Madani]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=AqdJ7LlfVWUC&q=kurta Mohsen Saeidi Madani (1993) Impact Of Hindu Culture On Muslims]</ref> which was in common use in the region.<ref>Thesis by Renu Bala http://www.apnaorg.com/research-papers-pdf/thesis-8.pdf</ref> However, The Mughal kurta was much looser than the Punjabi kurta, had no side slits and the upper part of the Mughal kurta was also very loose.

The other inspiration for the Punjabi kurta is the [[Angarkha|Punjabi angarkha]] which was called the old kurta in the early 20th century A.D.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=fRhuAAAAMAAJ&q=angrakha+punjabi+kurta Punjab District Gazetteers, Volume 4, Part 1 Gurgaon 1911]</ref> and is a loose tunic<ref>Punjab District Gazetteers: Ibbetson series, 1883-1884]. [https://books.google.com/books?id=D-Q2AQAAMAAJ&q=punjabi+angrakha]</ref> which falls to below the knees.<ref>Punjab gazetteers, 1883, bound in 10 vols., without title-leaves (1883) [https://books.google.com/books?id=YacIAAAAQAAJ&q=punjabi+angarkha]</ref>

During the 11th century C.E., AL Biruni noted<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=irh9dvlLz3MC&dq=kurtaka+dress&pg=PA118 Ghurye, Govind Sadashiv (1966) Indian Costume]</ref> women in north India wore the kurtaka which was a short shirt, with sleeves extending to the shoulders, to the middle of the body, and had slashes on the left and the right sides.<ref>Yadava, Ganga Prasad (1982) Dhanapāla and His Times: A Socio-cultural Study Based Upon His Works [https://books.google.com/books?id=aY_I3zgxfpsC&dq=kurtaka+dress&pg=PA107]</ref> Thiis similar to the modern Punjabi kurta worn by women<ref>Sharma, Brij Narain (1966) Social life in Northern India, A.D. 600-1000 [https://books.google.com/books?id=G0oiAAAAMAAJ&q=kurtaka+punjab]</ref> and men which has side slits rather than slashes. The use of shirts and trousers was earlier observed in the [[Punjab region]] in the 7th century by Hsuan Tsang and I-Tsing.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=te1sqTzTxD8C&dq=punjabi+clothing+central+asian+influences&pg=PA427 Abraham Eraly (2011) The First Spring: The Golden Age of India]</ref>

In modern usage, a short kurta is referred to as the kurti. However, traditionally, the kurti is a short cotton coat<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=7SdGAQAAIAAJ&q=kurti+is+punjabi+dress Punjab District Gazetteers: Rawalpindi District (v. 28A) (1909)]</ref><ref>Compiled and published under the authority of the Punjab government, (1939) [https://books.google.com/books?id=6eY2AQAAMAAJ&q=punjab++kurti Punjab District and State Gazetteers: Part A]</ref> (without side slits) and is believed to have descended from the tunic of the Shunga period (2nd century B.C.).<ref>Panjab University Research Bulletin: Arts, Volume 13, Issue 1 - Volume 14, Issue (1982) [https://books.google.com/books?id=nvE7AQAAIAAJ&q=sunga]</ref> The kurti is front opening and is buttoned. Traditionally, a chain of gold or silver called zanjiri is woven into the buttons.<ref>Kehal, Harkesh Singh (2011) Alop ho riha Punjabi virsa bhag dooja. Lokgeet Parkashan. {{ISBN|978-93-5017-532-3}}</ref> The use of the kurti by women has been noted during the 1600s<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=6-jZAAAAMAAJ&q=+kurti Dr Daljit Singh (2004) Punjab Socio-Economic Condition (1501-1700 A.D.)]</ref><ref>Sanjeev Prasad Srivastava, R. P. Srivastava (2001) Studies in Panjab Sculpture [https://books.google.com/books?id=W0SIptlc5rQC&dq=punjab+dress+central+asian&pg=PA6]</ref> to the present day. The kurti can be front opening from below the neck to the waist, or cover the back but leave the stomach exposed. Some styles fasten at the back or are worn as pullovers with no side slits and font opening.

The kurti also forms part of male dress as a waist coat worn over the kurta.<ref>Sir George Casson Walker (2006) Gazetteer of the Lahore District, 1893-94 [https://books.google.com/books?id=A0duAAAAMAAJ&q=+++kurti]</ref>

Before the use of the kurta, people in Jammu traditionally wore the peshwaj<ref>Textiles, Costumes and Ornaments of the Western Himalayas O Handa</ref> which flowed to the ankles. However, the traditional attire now is the kurta and Dogri pajamma. The use of the kurta was very rare in [[Kashmir]] until [[Kashyap Bandhu]] encouraged its use in the 1930s cultural revolution.<ref>Cultural Heritage of India- Kashmiri Pandit Contribution. The Publication of Kashmir Sabha, Calcutta (1999-2000) [http://koausa.org/vitasta/pdf/Vitasta1999-2000.pdf]</ref>

==Muktsari Kurta Pajama==
[[File:Punjabi Traditional Fashion - Cultural Night - Wiki Conference India - CGC - Mohali 2016-08-05 7370.JPG|thumb|200px|Muktsari kurta pajama]]
The Muktsari kurta pajama is the modern Punjabi version of the traditional kurta pajama outfit which is very popular on the sub-continent.<ref>[http://www.tribuneindia.com/2012/20120105/ldh1.htm] Puneevnft Pal Singh Gill Article The Tribune 04 01 2012</ref>

Muktsari kurta pajamas were initially worn by youngsters in the [[Muktsar district|Muktsar]] area. However, they are now popular all over Punjab. The Muktsari kurtas are snug with lapels on either side and the pyjamas are similar to well-fitted slim pants.<ref>[http://www.tribuneindia.com/2012/20120105/ldh1.htm] Puneet Pal Singh Gill Article The Tribune 04 01 2012</ref> The kurta length is short and there's no pleating anywhere.<ref>[http://www.tribuneindia.com/2012/20120105/ldh1.htm] Puneet Pal Singh Gill Article The Tribune 04 01 2012</ref>

== See also ==
* [[Kurta]]

==References==
{{Reflist|30em}}
{{Punjabi clothing}}
{{Clothing in South Asia}}
{{Punjab, India}}
{{Pakistani clothing}}

[[Category:Folk costumes]]
[[Category:Indian clothing]]
[[Category:Pakistani clothing]]
[[Category:Punjabi culture]]
[[Category:Punjabi clothing]]

Punjabi Tamba and Kurta - Revision history

Felorox: Added first stub nd citations