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{{short description|Nepalese-British mountaineer}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=November 2021}}
{{Use British English|date=January 2021}}
{{Infobox mountaineer
| name = Nirmal Purja<br/>{{nobold|{{post-nominals|country=GBR|MBE}}}}
| honorific_suffix = {{small|[[Order of the British Empire|MBE]]}}
| nationality = formerly [[Nepalis|Nepalese]],<ref>{{cite web|publisher=Companies House|url=https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/10846049/filing-history/MzE3OTkxMzI1MWFkaXF6a2N4/document?format=pdf&download=0|title=Appointment of Director|access-date=31 October 2021}}</ref> now [[United Kingdom|British]]<ref>{{cite web|url=https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/10846049/officers|title=ELITE HIMALAYAN ADVENTURES PRIVATE LIMITED|publisher=find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk|access-date=31 October 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Change of Particulars for Director|access-date=31 October 2021|publisher=Companies House|url=https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/10846049/filing-history/MzE5Nzc3OTkwOWFkaXF6a2N4/document?format=pdf&download=0}}</ref><ref name="ft">{{cite news |last1=Robbins |first1=Tom |title=Mountaineer Nirmal Purja: 'I'm sick of people saying things are impossible' |url=https://www.ft.com/content/0664aee1-44e1-492f-ab2c-57a47acb3534 |access-date=10 March 2022 |work=Financial Times |date=26 November 2021}}</ref>
| image = NIRMAL PURJA "NIMS".jpg
| caption = Purja in 2021
| birth_date = {{Birth date and age|1983|7|25|df=y}}<ref name="RedBull" />
| start_age = 29/30<ref name="th"/>
| birth_place = [[Myagdi District|Myagdi]], [[Gandaki Province]], [[Nepal]]
| notable_ascents = Fastest ascent of all fourteen [[eight-thousander]] mountains, with a record time of six months and six days ([[bottled oxygen (climbing)|supplemental oxygen]] aid)
Fastest ascent of [[Mount Everest]], [[Lhotse]] and [[Makalu]], in 48 hours<ref name="Project" /><ref name="RaI">{{cite web|url=https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/nirmal-nims-purja-summits-all-14-8000-meter-peaks-in-just-6-months-6-days-shattering-former-record-by-over-7-years/|title=Nirmal "Nims" Purja Summits All 14 8,000 Meter Peaks in Just 6 Months 6 Days, Shattering Former Record by Over 7 Years|date=30 October 2019|publisher=Rock and Ice Magazine|access-date=29 October 2019|archive-date=29 October 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191029084755/https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/nirmal-nims-purja-summits-all-14-8000-meter-peaks-in-just-6-months-6-days-shattering-former-record-by-over-7-years/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name=BBC>{{cite news |last1=BBC News |title=Nirmal Purja: Ex-soldier climbs 14 highest mountains in seven months |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-50217376 |work=BBC News |date=29 October 2019 |access-date=29 October 2019 |archive-date=29 October 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191029071814/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-50217376 |url-status=live }}</ref>
First winter ascent of [[K2]]<ref>{{Cite web|title=Nirmal Purja climbed K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/nirmal-purja-climbed-k2-in-winter-without-supplementary-oxygen.html|access-date=29 January 2021|website=PlanetMountain.com|language=en|archive-date=27 January 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210127070654/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/nirmal-purja-climbed-k2-in-winter-without-supplementary-oxygen.html|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|date=16 January 2021|title=First winter ascent of K2 achieved by Nirmal Purja and fellow Nepalese|url=https://www.scmp.com/sport/outdoor/extreme-sports/article/3118032/first-winter-ascent-k2-achieved-nirmal-purja-and|access-date=29 January 2021|website=South China Morning Post|language=en|archive-date=28 January 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210128170657/https://www.scmp.com/sport/outdoor/extreme-sports/article/3118032/first-winter-ascent-k2-achieved-nirmal-purja-and|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Nirmal Purja's K2 winter summit proves ANYTHING is possible|url=https://www.redbull.com/ca-en/nirmal-purja-k2-summit-winter|access-date=29 January 2021|website=Red Bull|language=en|archive-date=25 January 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210125151724/https://www.redbull.com/ca-en/nirmal-purja-k2-summit-winter|url-status=live}}</ref>
|spouse = Suchi Purja
|children =Himani Purja
}}

'''Nirmal Purja''' (known as '''Nims''' or '''Nimsdai'''<ref>{{Cite news|last=Kennedy|first=Lisa|date=2021-12-01|title='14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible' Review: Climbing at a Breakneck Pace|language=en-US|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2021/12/01/movies/14-peaks-nothing-is-impossible-review.html|access-date=2021-12-24|issn=0362-4331}}</ref>) {{post-nominals|MBE}} ({{lang-ne|निर्मल पुर्जा}}; born 25 July 1983<ref name=RedBull>{{cite web | url = https://www.redbull.com/my-en/athlete/nirmal-purja | title = Nirmal Purja | publisher = RedBull | access-date = 28 January 2021 | archive-date = 30 October 2021 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20211030124313/https://www.redbull.com/my-en/athlete/nirmal-purja | url-status = live }}</ref>) is a Nepal-born [[naturalised]] British<ref name="ft"/> [[mountaineering|mountaineer]] and a holder of multiple mountaineering world records. Prior to taking on a career in mountaineering, he served in the [[British Army]] with the [[Brigade of Gurkhas]] followed by the [[Special Boat Service]] (SBS), the special forces unit of the [[Royal Navy]].{{r|RedBull}}<ref>{{cite web|access-date=2021-12-07|publisher=National Army Museum|title=Special Boat Service|url=https://www.nam.ac.uk/explore/special-boat}}</ref> Purja is notable for having climbed all 14 [[eight-thousander]]s (peaks above {{Convert|8,000|m|ft|abbr=|disp=or}}) in a record time of six months and six days with the aid of [[Bottled_oxygen_(climbing)|bottled oxygen]].<ref>{{Cite web|title=Moving mountains|url=https://www.theweek.in/theweek/leisure/2020/12/31/moving-mountains.html|access-date=15 January 2021|website=The Week|language=en|archive-date=16 January 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210116181212/https://www.theweek.in/theweek/leisure/2020/12/31/moving-mountains.html|url-status=live}}</ref> He was also the first to reach the summits of [[Mount Everest]], [[Lhotse]] and [[Makalu]] within 48 hours. In 2021, Purja, along with a team of nine other Nepalese mountaineers, completed the first-ever winter ascent of [[K2]].<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1" /><ref name=":2" />

==Early life==
Nirmal ("Nims") Purja was born in July 1983 in Dana, a small village in Nepal's [[Myagdi district]]{{r|RedBull2}} near [[Dhaulagiri]], at 1,600 m above sea level.<ref name=NG1/> At age 4, his family moved lower down to the [[Chitwan District]] near Kathmandu.<ref name=NG1/> His father was a Gurkha soldier and his mother was from a farming background.<ref name=NG1/> Being from two different [[Caste system in Nepal|Nepalese castes]], their marriage was frowned upon and they were cut off financially and socially from their respective families.<ref name=NG1/> Purja told ''[[National Geographic]]'', "We came from a really poor family", and "As a kid, I remember I didn’t even have flip-flops".<ref name=NG1/> His three much older brothers became Gurkha soldiers and they funded Purja to attend an English-speaking boarding school.<ref name=NG1/> During his schooling, Purja became proficient in [[kick-boxing]].<ref name=NG1>{{cite magazine | magazine=[[National Geographic]] | url=https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/adventure/2020/12/the-nepalese-mountaineer-who-is-taking-a-spiritual-view-to-new-heights | first=Dominic | last=Bliss | date=12 January 2021 | accessdate=5 December 2021 | title=How a Nepali climber with a "freakish physiology" stormed the world of high-altitude mountaineering}}</ref>

==Military career (2003–18) ==
Purja joined the Brigade of Gurkhas in 2003, and was accepted into the [[Royal Navy]]'s [[Special Boat Service]] (SBS) in 2009,<ref name="RedBull2">{{cite web |title=Meet the man who climbed 14 mountains in six months and stunned the world |url=https://www.redbull.com/au-en/project-possible-nirmal-purja-climbing-worlds-highest-peaks-record |website=Red Bull |access-date=30 October 2019 |language=en |archive-date=29 October 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191029172245/https://www.redbull.com/au-en/project-possible-nirmal-purja-climbing-worlds-highest-peaks-record |url-status=live }}</ref> becoming the first Gurkha to join the elite British unit.{{r|RedBull}} He served in the Special Boat Service as a [[cold-weather warfare]] specialist.{{r|RedBull}}<ref name="th">{{cite news |title=Nirmal Purja: Nepali climber carving mountaineering history |url=https://sportstar.thehindu.com/other-sports/nepal-nirmal-purja-mountaineer-project-possible-mountaineering-record-reinhold-messner/article29823944.ece |access-date=30 October 2019 |work=Sportstar |language=en |archive-date=30 October 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191030125109/https://sportstar.thehindu.com/other-sports/nepal-nirmal-purja-mountaineer-project-possible-mountaineering-record-reinhold-messner/article29823944.ece |url-status=live }}</ref> [[Ministry of Defence (United Kingdom)|Ministry of Defence]] regulations prohibit Purja from discussing his activities with the SBS, however he said that he was involved in all theatres of war that Britain was involved in, and he was wounded after taking a sniper bullet that missed his neck by striking the butt of the stock of his rifle.<ref name=NG1/>

In 2018, he passed on a surprise invitation to join the [[Special Air Services]] (SAS) unit, and resigned from the SBS as a [[Lance Corporal]],<ref name="LG">{{cite web|url=https://www.thegazette.co.uk/notice/3041428|title=The London Gazette: Nirmal Purja MBE|date=9 June 2018|access-date=26 May 2019|archive-date=26 May 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190526125628/https://www.thegazette.co.uk/notice/3041428|url-status=live}}</ref> in order to focus full-time on his high-altitude mountaineering career and projects.<ref name=NG1/> At the time, Purja had become an important contributor to his family while serving in the military,<ref name=BBC2021>{{cite news|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/59482665|title=BBC Sport: Nimsdai Purja |work=BBC Sport | date=30 November 2021|access-date=3 December 2021}}</ref> and was passing up his army pension (which he called "a life-changing" amount of money).<ref name=NG1/>

==Climbing career (2012–present)==
===Early Himalayan ascents===
He made his first major Himalayan climb in 2012, reaching the summit of [[Lobuche]] East without any previous experience as a mountaineer. On 18 May 2014, he made his first ascent of an [[eight-thousander]] by summiting [[Dhaulagiri]] (8,167 metres) during a return trip of only 15 days.<ref name="Wanderlust">{{cite web|url=http://www.dreamwanderlust.com/news/nirmal-purja-summits-5th-eight-thousander-in-12-days-ends-1st-phase-of-project-possible|title=Nirmal Purja summits 5th eight-thousander in 12 days, ends 1st phase of 'Project Possible'|date=24 May 2019|publisher=Dreamwanderlust.com.com|author=Dream Wanderlust|access-date=26 May 2019|archive-date=27 May 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190527231033/http://www.dreamwanderlust.com/news/nirmal-purja-summits-5th-eight-thousander-in-12-days-ends-1st-phase-of-project-possible|url-status=live}}</ref> On 13 May 2016, Purja summited [[Mount Everest]], his second eight-thousander.<ref name="Wanderlust" />

On 15 May 2017,<ref name="Wanderlust" /> Purja led the Gurkha Expedition "G200E", which summited Everest together with 13 Gurkhas to commemorate 200 years of Gurkha service in the British Army.<ref name="G200E">{{cite web|url=https://www.gurkhabde.com/gurkha-everest-expedition-himalayan-oddyssey/|title=Gurkha Everest Expedition – Himalayan Odyssey|date=3 February 2015 |access-date=26 May 2019|archive-date=26 May 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190526125632/https://www.gurkhabde.com/gurkha-everest-expedition-himalayan-oddyssey/|url-status=live}}</ref> He ascended Mount Everest six times. The third time 27 May 2017,<ref>{{cite web | url = http://www.himalayandatabase.com/2017%20Season%20Lists/2017%20Spring%20A15.html | title = The Himalayan Database, Spring 2017 |access-date = 26 June 2022}}</ref> the fourth time 22 May 2019,<ref>{{cite web | url = http://www.himalayandatabase.com/2019%20Season%20Lists/2019%20Spring%20A12.html | title = The Himalayan Database, Spring 2019 |access-date = 26 June 2022}}</ref> the fifth time 31 May 2021<ref>{{cite web | url = http://www.himalayandatabase.com/2021%20Season%20Lists/2021%20Spring%20A10.html | title = The Himalayan Database, Spring 2021 |access-date = 26 June 2022}}</ref> and the sixth time 15 May 2022.<ref name="NepalNews">{{cite web |url=https://nepalnews.com/s/travel-and-tourism/nirmal-purja-sets-another-record |title=Nirmal Purja sets another record |author=Raju Silwal |publisher=nepalnews.com |date=2022-05-19 |access-date=2022-06-30}}</ref>

On 9 June 2018, he was appointed a [[Member of the Order of the British Empire]] (MBE) by [[Elizabeth II|Queen Elizabeth II]]<ref name="LG" /> for his outstanding work in high altitude mountaineering.

===Project Possible 14/7===
[[File:Nirmal Purja.jpg|thumb|Purja in Kathmandu in 2019, after the final climb of Project Possible]]
With a plan to complete all 14 eight-thousand metre summits in seven months, Purja summited the first mountain on 23 April 2019 and completed the first six-summit phase of his "Project Possible 14/7"<ref name="Project" /> on 24 May 2019: [[Annapurna]], [[Dhaulagiri]], [[Kangchenjunga]], Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu.<ref name="Project">{{cite web|url=https://www.manojbohara.com/nirmal-purja-and-project-possible/|title="Project Possible" webpage.|access-date=26 May 2019|archive-date=26 May 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190526082829/https://www.manojbohara.com/nirmal-purja-and-project-possible/|url-status=live}}</ref> He climbed with [[sherpa people|Sherpas]] [[Mingma_Gyabu_Sherpa|Mingma Gyabu “David” Sherpa]], [[Lakpa Dendi (Zekson Son)]], Geljen Sherpa and Tensi Kasang, amongst other mountaineers. The last five summits were climbed in only 12 days. He broke his previous Guinness World Record by climbing Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu within 2 days and 30 minutes.<ref name="Wanderlust"/><ref name="THT">{{cite web|url=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/nirmal-purja-stands-atop-kanchenjunga-after-heroic-ascent-of-dhaulagiri-annapurna/|title=Nirmal Purja stands atop Kangchenjunga after heroic ascent of Dhaulagiri, Annapurna|date=15 May 2019|work=The Himalaya Times|author=Rakhan Pokhrel|access-date=26 May 2019|archive-date=26 May 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190526111429/https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/nirmal-purja-stands-atop-kanchenjunga-after-heroic-ascent-of-dhaulagiri-annapurna/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="desnivel1">{{cite web|url=https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/primeras-cimas-de-la-temporada-en-el-annapurna-nirmal-purja-tacha-el-primer-8-000/|title=Primeras cimas de la temporada en el Annapurna, Nirmal Purja tacha el primer 8.000|date=24 April 2019|publisher=Desnivel.com|language=Spanish|access-date=26 May 2019|archive-date=26 May 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190526103716/https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/primeras-cimas-de-la-temporada-en-el-annapurna-nirmal-purja-tacha-el-primer-8-000/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="desnivel3">{{cite web|url=https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/nirmal-purja-aclara-que-si-hizo-cima-en-el-dhaulagiri-ahora-va-a-por-everest-lhotse-y-makalu/|title=Nirmal Purja aclara que sí hizo cima en el Dhaulagiri… ahora va a por Everest, Lhotse y Makalu.|date=20 May 2019|publisher=Desnivel.com|language=Spanish|access-date=26 May 2019|archive-date=26 May 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190526093724/https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/nirmal-purja-aclara-que-si-hizo-cima-en-el-dhaulagiri-ahora-va-a-por-everest-lhotse-y-makalu/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="desnivel4">{{cite web|url=https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/nirmal-purja-corona-everest-y-lhotse-en-el-dia-y-hoy-intenta-el-makalu/|title=Nirmal Purja corona Everest y Lhotse en el día… y hoy intenta el Makalu.|date=23 May 2019|publisher=Desnivel.com|author=Isaac Fernández|language=Spanish|access-date=26 May 2019|archive-date=23 May 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190523163101/https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/nirmal-purja-corona-everest-y-lhotse-en-el-dia-y-hoy-intenta-el-makalu/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="desnivel6">{{cite web|url=https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/nirmal-purja-completa-sus-6x8000-de-primavera-con-el-makalu/|title=Nirmal Purja completa sus 6×8000 de primavera con el Makalu|language=Spanish|date=24 May 2019|publisher=Desnivel.com|author=Isaac Fernández|access-date=26 May 2019|archive-date=26 May 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190526093710/https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/nirmal-purja-completa-sus-6x8000-de-primavera-con-el-makalu/|url-status=live}}</ref>

Purja completed the second phase in July 2019, climbing [[Nanga Parbat]] (8126 m, 3 July), [[Gasherbrum I]] (8080 m, 15 July), [[Gasherbrum II]] (8034 m, 18 July), [[K2]] (8611 metres, 24 July) and [[Broad Peak]] (8047 m, 26 July), all in Pakistan.<ref name="THTBP">{{cite web|url=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/nirmal-nims-purja-sets-world-record-climbing-11-mountains-in-4-months/|title=Nirmal 'Nims' Purja scales Nanga Parbat to complete his seventh 8000er|date=7 July 2019|work=The Himalayan Times|author=Rajan Pokhrel|access-date=28 July 2019|archive-date=29 July 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190729094652/https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/nirmal-nims-purja-sets-world-record-climbing-11-mountains-in-4-months/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="BP">{{cite web|url=https://explorersweb.com/2019/07/26/breaking-nirmal-purja-climbs-broad-peak-11th-8000er-ticked-off/|title=Breaking: Nirmal Purja Climbs Broad Peak|date=26 July 2019|publisher=Explorers.web|author=Angela Benavides|access-date=28 July 2019|archive-date=28 July 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190728085822/https://explorersweb.com/2019/07/26/breaking-nirmal-purja-climbs-broad-peak-11th-8000er-ticked-off/|url-status=live}}</ref>

The third and last phase started in September 2019. He summitted [[Cho Oyu]] (8188 m, [[Tibet]], [[China]]) on 23 September and [[Manaslu]] (8163 m, Nepal) on 27 September. On 1 October 2019, Chinese authorities agreed to grant Purja and his team a special permit to scale [[Shishapangma]] (8027 m, Tibet, China) in the autumn season, at the request of the Nepali government. <ref name="THT1">{{cite web|url=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/china-to-allow-nirmal-nims-purja-to-climb-shishapangma/|title=China to allow Nirmal 'Nims' Purja to climb Shishapangma|access-date=1 October 2019|archive-date=1 October 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191001082603/https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/china-to-allow-nirmal-nims-purja-to-climb-shishapangma/|url-status=live}}</ref> Purja left Nepal for Tibet on 18 October 2019, leading a five-member expedition to climb the mountain<ref name="THT2">{{cite web|url=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/nirmal-nims-purja-leaves-for-shishapangma-to-complete-14-peaks-in-6-months/|title=Nirmal 'Nims' Purja leaves for Shishapangma to complete 14 peaks in 6 months|access-date=22 October 2019|archive-date=22 October 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191022104457/https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/nirmal-nims-purja-leaves-for-shishapangma-to-complete-14-peaks-in-6-months/|url-status=live}}</ref> and completed Project Possible 14/7 with a successful summit on 29 October using supplemental oxygen.<ref name="THTBMan">{{cite web|url=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/nirmal-nims-purja-sets-world-record-scaling-13-peaks-in-five-months/|title=Nirmal 'Nims' Purja sets world record scaling 13 peaks in five months|date=27 September 2019|work=The Himalayan Times|author=Rajana Ppokhrel|access-date=27 September 2019|archive-date=30 September 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190930121139/https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/nirmal-nims-purja-sets-world-record-scaling-13-peaks-in-five-months/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="RaI" />

Other than the fastest ascent with supplemental oxygen of the 14 tallest mountains in the world, Purja broke the following records: most 8000 m mountains in the Spring season, climbing six; most 8000 m mountains in the Summer season, climbing five; fastest summit of the three highest mountains in the world, Everest, K2 and Kangchenjunga; fastest summit of the five highest mountains in the World, Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu; fastest lower 8000ers, Gasherbrum 1, 2 and Broad Peak; fastest higher 8000ers, consecutive summits of Everest, Lhotse and Makalu in 48 hours (beats his own previous record of 5 days).<ref name="Project" />

Whilst attempting Project Possible in May 2019, a photo taken by Purja of the overcrowding on Mount Everest went viral and was shown in [[The New York Times]].<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/18/sports/the-everest-climber-whose-traffic-jam-photo-went-viral.html |title=New York Times: the climber whose traffic jam photo went viral |newspaper=The New York Times |date=18 September 2019 |access-date=3 December 2021|last1=Mutrie |first1=Tim }}</ref>

Project Possible has been documented as a Netflix Documentary called ''[[14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible]]'' which was launched on 29 November 2021<ref>{{cite web |title=JRE 1790 | website=[[Spotify]] |url=https://open.spotify.com/episode/0JEBeXmsbltKWYuf4TqJ6k?si=3c57bd822cb94dbc}}</ref>.<ref>{{cite news |title=14 Peaks: All the records Nims Purja broke in new Netflix documentary |url=https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/news/2021/12/14-peaks-all-the-records-nims-purja-broke-in-new-netflix-documentary-684255 |work=Guinness World Records |date=3 December 2021 |language=en-gb}}</ref>

=== First winter ascent of K2 ===
Nirmal Purja, along with nine other Nepali mountaineers, made history on 16 January 2021 as the first to ascend [[K2]] in the harsh weather conditions of the winter. His team consisting of [[Mingma Gyabu Sherpa|Mingma David Sherpa]], Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Pem Chiri Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa and himself, joined by the team of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa (Mingma G), Dawa Tenjin Sherpa and Kilu Pemba Sherpa, and Sona Sherpa from [[Seven Summit Treks|Seven Summits Treks]] and successfully ascended K2 at 16:58 local time in Pakistan.<ref>{{cite web |title=K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent |url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/k2-nepalese-mountaineers-claim-historic-first-winter-ascent.html/ |website=planetmountain.com |access-date=28 January 2021 |archive-date=28 January 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210128003023/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/k2-nepalese-mountaineers-claim-historic-first-winter-ascent.html/ |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite web|last=Welle (www.dw.com)|first=Deutsche|title=Nepali mountaineers make first K2 winter ascent {{!}} DW {{!}} 16 January 2021|url=https://www.dw.com/en/nepali-mountaineers-make-first-k2-winter-ascent/a-56249929|access-date=16 January 2021|publisher=Deutsche Welle|language=en-GB|archive-date=16 January 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210116160521/https://www.dw.com/en/nepali-mountaineers-make-first-k2-winter-ascent/a-56249929|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite web|date=16 January 2021|title=Nepalese team makes first successful winter ascent of K2|url=http://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/jan/16/nepalese-team-makes-first-successful-winter-ascent-of-k2|access-date=16 January 2021|website=The Guardian|language=en|archive-date=16 January 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210116172020/https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/jan/16/nepalese-team-makes-first-successful-winter-ascent-of-k2|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite web|date=16 January 2021|title=Nepali mountaineers achieve historic winter first on K2|url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/2021/01/nims-purja-attempts-to-summit-k2-the-worlds-second-highest-peak/|access-date=16 January 2021|website=Adventure|language=en|archive-date=16 January 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210116162316/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/2021/01/nims-purja-attempts-to-summit-k2-the-worlds-second-highest-peak/|url-status=live}}</ref> This is the first successful K2 winter expedition after numerous attempts since 1987. Purja was the only team member to summit without the use of supplemental oxygen, becoming the first person to do so in winter.{{r|SP}}<ref>{{cite web|author=Nirmal Purja|title=Update 11 – With or without O2 ?|url=https://www.nimsdai.com/post/k2-winter-update-11-with-or-without-o2|website=nimsdai.com|date=18 January 2021|access-date=28 January 2021|archive-date=28 January 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210128033612/https://www.nimsdai.com/post/k2-winter-update-11-with-or-without-o2|url-status=live}}</ref>

After terrible weather conditions hit the lower camps at the foot of K2<ref>{{Cite news|last=Tomlinson|first=Hugh|title=Storm wrecks bid to reach K2 summit in winter|newspaper=[[The Times]] |language=en|url=https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/storm-wrecks-bid-to-reach-k2-summit-in-winter-5qbc9n0cp|access-date=16 January 2021|issn=0140-0460|archive-date=16 January 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210116214819/https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/storm-wrecks-bid-to-reach-k2-summit-in-winter-5qbc9n0cp|url-status=live}}</ref> and some equipment was lost, Nepali mountaineers of these three teams decided to join efforts and climb the peak together, as a team.

=== Further achievements ===
In May 2022, Purja set a new speed record for ascending Kangchenjunga, Mount Everest, and Lhotse consecutively without oxygen, with a time of 8 days 23 hours, and 10 minutes. He ascended Kangchenjunga on May 7 at 10:50 am, Mount Everest on May 15 at 8 am (his sixth ascent of Mount Everest), and after 26 hours, on May 16, at 10 am, ascended Lhotse.{{r|NepalNews}}

=== Ascents of eight-thousanders ===
Research published in 2022 could only verify [[Eight-thousander#Verification issues|three climbers]], including Purja, (the other two being [[Ed Viesturs]] and [[Veikka Gustafsson]]), to have stood on the true geographical summit of all 14 eight-thousanders.<ref name=Alpinist>{{cite web | magazine=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist]] | url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web22c/newswire-8000er-records-challenged-by-photographic-research | date=20 July 2022 | accessdate=3 August 2022 | title=Researchers challenge historical records for 8000-meter peaks | first=Derek | last=Franz}}</ref> The researchers noted that during Project 14/7, Purja had stopped at the rocky fore summit of Dhaulagiri, and also at the ridge point on Manaslu.<ref name=Alpinist/> However, they noted that Purja had corrected this in autumn 2021 when he went to the true summits of both mountains.<ref name=Alpinist/>

The following table lists all of Purja's ascents of eight-thousander peaks:

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! S.no.!! Eight-thousander peak (height) !! Date of ascent
|-
|1.||[[Mount Everest]] (8848 m) || 13 May 2016, 15 May 2017, 27 May 2017, 22 May 2019, 31 May 2021, 15 May 2022
|-
|2.||[[K2]] (8611 m) || 24 July 2019, 16 January 2021, 22 July 2022<ref>{{cite news |url=https://baltistantimes.com/list-of-climbers-summited-k2-2022/ |title=K2 Expedition 2022 : List of climbers summited K2 in 2022 |publisher=baltistantimes.com |date=22 July 2022 |access-date=2022-07-23}}</ref>
|-
|3.||[[Kangchenjunga]] (8586 m) || 15 May 2019, 7 May 2022
|-
|4.||[[Lhotse]] (8516 m) || 27 May 2017, 22 May 2019, 16 May 2022
|-
|5.||[[Makalu]] (8485 m) || 1 June 2017, 24 May 2019
|-
|6.||[[Cho Oyu]] (8188 m) || 23 September 2019
|-
|7.||[[Dhaulagiri]] (8167 m) || 18 May 2014, 12 May 2019, 8 October 2021
|-
|8.||[[Manaslu]] (8163 m) || 27 September 2019, 27 September 2021
|-
|9.||[[Nanga Parbat]] (8125 m) || 3 July 2019
|-
|10.||[[Annapurna]] (8091 m) || 23 April 2019
|-
|11.||[[Gasherbrum I]] (8080 m) || 15 July 2019
|-
|12.||[[Broad Peak]] (8051 m) || 26 July 2019
|-
|13.||[[Gasherbrum II]] (8034 m) || 18 July 2019
|-
|14.||[[Shishapangma]] (8027 m) || 29 October 2019
|}

==Personal life==
Purja is of [[Magars|Magar]] descent.<ref name="SP">{{cite web|author=Sangam Prasain|date=19 January 2021|title=My body was freezing. I told my teammates I couldn't move.|url=https://kathmandupost.com/national/2021/01/19/nirmal-purja-announces-he-climbed-k2-without-supplemental-oxygen?fbclid=IwAR1QLxyAIytx-wHgT184yKrAvwadJJkiun61M99jnbXf3tRJiq-q7AfbimA|access-date=28 January 2021|work=The Kathmandu Post|archive-date=2 February 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210202045716/https://kathmandupost.com/national/2021/01/19/nirmal-purja-announces-he-climbed-k2-without-supplemental-oxygen?fbclid=IwAR1QLxyAIytx-wHgT184yKrAvwadJJkiun61M99jnbXf3tRJiq-q7AfbimA|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="NYT">{{cite web|author=Adam Skolnick|author2=Bhadra Sharma|date=19 January 2021|title=How Climbers Reached the Summit of K2 in Winter for the First Time|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/19/sports/summit-k2-nepalese-sherpas.html|access-date=28 January 2021|website=[[The New York Times]]|archive-date=29 January 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210129200423/https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/19/sports/summit-k2-nepalese-sherpas.html|url-status=live}}</ref> He was raised as a [[Hindus|Hindu]].{{Sfn|Purja|2020|p=38}} He is married to Suchi Purja (the daughter of a Gurkha soldier), and they live in [[Hampshire]].<ref name=NG1/> Purja has three much older brothers (who were also all Gurkha soldiers).<ref name=NG1/><ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2021/dec/03/nirmal-purja-mountaineer-14-peaks-documentary|title=Guardian: 14 Peaks challenge |website=[[TheGuardian.com]] |date=3 December 2021 |access-date=3 December 2021}}</ref>

==Filmography==
{| class="wikitable sortable plainrowheaders"
|-
! scope="col"| Year
! scope="col" | Title
! scope="col" | Role
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Notes
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | {{abbr|Ref(s)|Reference(s)}}

|-
| style="text-align:center;"| 2021
! scope="row" | ''[[14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible]]''
| Himself
|
| style="text-align:center;"|<ref>{{Cite web|last=Remley|first=Hilary|date=3 November 2021|title='14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible' Trailer Reveals a Man's Pursuit to Climb Every Mountain|url=https://collider.com/14-peaks-trailer-mountain-climbing-documentary/|url-status=live|access-date=15 November 2021|website=Collider|language=en-US}}</ref>
|}

==Books==
*{{cite book|first=Nirmal|last=Purja | title=Beyond Possible | isbn=978-1529312263 | year= 2020| publisher=[[Hodder & Stoughton]]}}

==See also==
*[[Death zone]], area above 8,000 metres
*[[Kim Chang-ho (climber)]], previous holder of world speed record for all 14 eight-thousanders
*[[List of climbers and mountaineers]]

==References==
{{Reflist}}

==External links==
*[https://projectpossible.co.uk/ "Project Possible 14/7" official webpage]
*[https://www.nimsdai.com/k2-winter "K2 Winter Ascent" official webpage]

{{authority control}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Purja, Nirmal}}
[[Category:1984 births]]
[[Category:Living people]]
[[Category:Gurkhas]]
[[Category:Nepalese emigrants to the United Kingdom]]
[[Category:British people of Nepalese descent]]
[[Category:Nepalese mountain climbers]]
[[Category:British mountain climbers]]
[[Category:British summiters of Mount Everest]]
[[Category:Nepalese summiters of Mount Everest]]
[[Category:Summiters of all 14 eight-thousanders]]
[[Category:People from Myagdi District]]
[[Category:Special Boat Service personnel]]
[[Category:Lists of British military personnel]]
[[Category:Nepalese Hindus]]
[[Category:British Hindus]]

Nirmal Purja - Revision history

Bot at 10:16, 17 December 2022