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<p><b>New page</b></p><div>{{short description|Traditional clothing}}<br />
[[File:Varma Raja Ravi-Lady with Veena.jpg|thumb|Women dressed in Mundum, Raja Ravi Verma]]<br />
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'''Mundum neriyathum''' ([[Malayalam]]: മുണ്ട് നേരിയത്; settu-mundu or mundu-set) is the traditional clothing of women in [[Kerala]], a state in southwestern [[India]]. It is the oldest remnant of the ancient form of the [[saree]] which covered only the lower part of the body.<ref name= "Boulanger">Boulanger, C (1997) Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping, Shakti Press International, New York. {{ISBN|0-9661496-1-0}}</ref><ref name= "Ghurye">Ghurye (1951) "Indian costume", Popular book depot (Bombay); (Includes rare photographs of 19th century Namboothiri and Nair women in ancient saree with bare upper torso)</ref> In the mundum neriyathum, the most basic traditional piece is the ''[[mundu]]'' or lower garment which is the ancient form of the saree denoted in [[Malayalam]] as 'Thuni' (meaning cloth), while the ''neriyathu'' forms the upper garment the mundu.<ref name="Boulanger"/><ref name="Ghurye"/> The mundum neryathum consists of two pieces of cloth, and could be worn in either the traditional style with the ''neriyathu'' tucked inside the blouse, or in the modern style with the ''neriyathu'' worn over the left shoulder.<ref name="Boulanger"/><br />
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==Origins==<br />
The mundum-neryathum is the extant form of the ancient saree referred to as "Sattika" in [[Hinduism|Hindu]], [[Buddhist]] and [[Jain]] literature.<ref name="Buddhist">Mahaparinibbanasutta (ancient Buddhist text)</ref> The mundu is the surviving form of lower garment of the ancient clothing referred to as antariya worn in a special way (lower garment).<ref name="alkazi">Alkazi, Roshan (1983) "Ancient Indian costume", Art Heritage</ref> The neriyath is the modern adaptation of a thin scarf worn from the right shoulder to the left shoulder referred to in ancient Buddhist-Jain texts as the ''uttariya''.<ref name="alkazi"/><ref name= "Mohapatra">Mohapatra, R. P. (1992) "Fashion styles of ancient India", B. R. Publishing corporation, {{ISBN|81-7018-723-0}}</ref> This two-set garments eventually evolved into what is now known as [[Kerala sari]].<ref name="Govind Sadashiv Ghurye 1951 p.236">Govind Sadashiv Ghurye (1951) "Indian Costume.", p.236</ref><ref name="Sulochana Ayyar 1987 p.152">Sulochana Ayyar (1987) "Costumes and Ornaments as Depicted in the Sculptures of Gwalior Museum.", p.152</ref><ref>Kusumanjali Prakashan, 1993 "The Natyasastra tradition and ancient Indian society", p.63</ref><br />
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Surviving medieval Kerala mural paintings depict existence of three-styles of clothing worn by women, these include one-piece mundum, single-piece sari with over-lapping pleats resembling nivi-drape worn today by [[Mohiniyattam]] dancers and two-piece mundam-neryathum attire which evolved into [[Kerala sari]].<ref name="North Kerala page 93">Wall paintings in North Kerala, India: 1000 years of temple art, Albrecht Frenz, Ke. Ke Mārār, page 93</ref><br />
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==Basic drape==<br />
[[file:Raja Ravi Varma - Mahabharata - Shakuntala.jpg|thumb|''Shakuntala'', by [[Raja Ravivarma]] is shown draped in a variation of the mundum neriyathum forming the modern Nivi style']]<br />
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The mundum neryathum is traditionally white or cream in colour and consists of two pieces of cloth, which have a coloured strip at the border known as ''kara''. The piece of cloth that drapes the lower garment is called the mundu. It is worn below the navel and around the hips, similar to the [[mundu]] worn by men in [[Kerala]]. The piece of cloth that is worn as the upper garment is called the neriyathu. One end of the neriyathu is tucked inside the pavada or petticoat and the remaining long end is worn across the front torso. The neriyathu is worn over a blouse that reaches quite above the breast bone. It is worn diagonally from along the right hips to the left shoulder and across the midriff, partly baring it. The remaining loose end of the neriyathu is left hanging from the left shoulder, resembling the 'nivi saree'. Today the 'nivi drape', is the most common form of the saree.<ref name= Mukulika>Miller, Daniel & Banerjee, Mukulika; (2004) "The Sari", Lustre press / Roli books</ref> A mundum neriyathum is starched before being draped and is worn over a blouse that matches the colour of the border or kara.<br />
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==Ornamental and festive use==<br />
The mundum neryathum is worn as everyday costume and also as distinct costume on festive occasions, in which case the Kara is ornamental in couture. During the Keralite festival of [[onam]], women of all ages wear the mundum neryathum and take part in folk dance meant only for women called ''kaikottikalli''. The mundum neryathum for festive occasion has golden coloured borders or a broad zari border known as ''Kasavu'', lending the costume another name of "Kasavu Saree". The colour for the blouse of the mundum neryathum for this occasion is determined by the age and marital status of the woman. Young unmarried girls wear green coloured blouse, while married middle aged mothers wear red blouses.<br />
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The kasavu or the golden border is either pure golden layer, copper coated or artificial. The fabric of mundu-sari is cotton and is always woven by hand. Kara or simple line designs adorn the bottom of these saris, while at times small peacock or temple designs embellish the pallu. The mundum neriyathum is also known as ''Set mundu'', Kasavu mundu, Mundu-sari, set-sari, or set veshti. The veshti is another version of the saree which consists of small upper clothing resembling a blouse-like garment worn without the pallu along with a mundu as lower garment.<br />
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==Kerala sari==<br />
The [[Kerala sari]] is worn as a garment that consists of a single piece of cloth. Otherwise, the Kerala sari closely resembles the mundum neriyathum and is often worn by [[Malayali]] women as a [[:wikt:quasi-|quasi]] mundum neriyathum.<br />
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==Cultural symbolism==<br />
The mundum neriyathum is the cultural costume of women of the [[Malayali]] community.<ref name="Boulanger"/><ref name="Ghurye"/> The grace and appeal of the golden borders contrasting with the otherwise plain white mundum neryathum of Keralite women has come to symbolize Malayali women. Both the traditional and modern styles of the mundum neryathum are depicted in the paintings of the Indian painter [[Raja Ravi Varma]]. The mundum neriyathum was modified in several paintings depicting Shakuntala from the Mahabharata to a style of draping now popularly known as the 'nivi saree' or 'national drape'. In one of his paintings the [[Indian subcontinent]] was shown as a mother wearing a flowing nivi saree.<ref name="Mukulika"/><br />
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==See also==<br />
* [[Mundu]]<br />
* [[Kuthampally dhoties and set mundu]]<br />
* [[Saree]]<br />
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==Notes==<br />
{{reflist}}<br />
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==External links==<br />
{{commons category}}<br />
*[https://ikasavu.com/kerala_women_ethnic_collection/kerala_set_mundu Kerala Mundu and Kasavu Saree]<br />
*[http://www.malabarshopping.com/women-collections/womens-dresses/kerala-set-mundu Kerala Set Mundu]<br />
*[https://ekatvacollections.com/set-mundu Set Mundu - Kasavu and Silver Kara Set Mundu]<br />
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==References and bibliography==<br />
{{refbegin}}<br />
*Boulanger, C (1997) Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping, Shakti Press International, New York. {{ISBN|0-9661496-1-0}}<br />
*Mohapatra, R. P. (1992) "Fashion styles of ancient India", B. R. Publishing corporation, {{ISBN|81-7018-723-0}}<br />
*Ghurye (1951) "Indian costume", Popular book depot (Bombay); (Includes rare photographs of 19th century Namboothiri and nair women in ancient saree with bare upper torso).<br />
*Alkazi, Roshan (1983) "Ancient Indian costume", Art Heritage<br />
*Mahaparinibbanasutta (ancient Buddhist text)<br />
*Miller, Daniel & Banerjee, Mukulika; (2004) "The Sari", Lustre press / Roli books<br />
* Bjorn Landstrom (1964) "The Quest for India", Double day English Edition, Stockholm.<br />
* T.K Velu Pillai, (1940) "The Travancore State Manual"; 4 volumes; Trivandrum<br />
* Miller, J. Innes. (1969). The Spice Trade of The Roman Empire: 29 B.C. to A.D. 641. Oxford University Press. Special edition for Sandpiper Books. 1998. {{ISBN|0-19-814264-1}}.<br />
* K.V. Krishna Iyer (1971) Kerala's Relations with the Outside World, pp.&nbsp;70, 71 in "The Cochin Synagogue Quatercentenary Celebrations Commemoration Volume", Kerala History Association, Cochin.<br />
* Periplus Maris Erythraei "The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea", (trans). Wilfred Schoff (1912), reprinted South Asia Books 1995 {{ISBN|81-215-0699-9}}<br />
{{refend}}<br />
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{{commons category|Mundum Neriyathum}}<br />
{{Saree}}<br />
{{Kerala}}<br />
{{Kerala topics}}<br />
{{Clothing in South Asia}}<br />
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2019}}<br />
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[[Category:Dresses]]<br />
[[Category:History of Asian clothing]]<br />
[[Category:Saris]]<br />
[[Category:Kerala clothing]]</div>2409:4073:498:5D99:E0BC:D516:AD13:46AC