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{{Infobox geographical indication
| name = Muga silk
| image =Assamese Muga With Japi.jpg
| image_size =
| alt = Muga silk mekhalas with ''[[jaapi]]''
| caption = Muga silk mekhala and chador with ''[[jaapi]]''
| alternative names =
| description = Wild Silk from Assam with a yellowish golden tint
| type = Handicraft
| area = Assam
| country = India
| registered = 2007
| material = Silk
| official website =
}}
'''Muga silk''' is a variety of [[wild silk]] [[List of Geographical Indications in India|geographically tagged]]<ref name="GIIndia">{{cite web | url=http://ipindia.nic.in/girindia/ | title=GI Registry India | publisher=Intellectual property India | work=Statewise Registration Details of GI Applications | accessdate=27 January 2016 | url-status=dead | archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20130826183844/http://ipindia.nic.in/girindia/ | archivedate=26 August 2013 }}</ref> to the state of [[Assam]] in [[India]]. The silk is known for its extreme durability and has a natural yellowish-golden tint<ref name="Central Silk Board" /> with a shimmering, glossy texture.<ref name="NHyde">{{cite journal | title=The Queen of Textiles | author=Hyde, Nina | journal=National Geographic | date=1984 | volume=165 | issue=1 | pages=14}}</ref> It was previously reserved for the use of royalty.<ref name="FAO">{{cite web | url=http://www.fao.org/docrep/005/y4351e/y4351e0d.htm | title=Non-wood products from organisms associated with temperate broad-leaved trees | publisher=Food and Agriculture Organization | accessdate=27 January 2016}}</ref>

In the [[Brahmaputra Valley]], the larvae of the [[Antheraea assamensis|Assam silkmoth]] feed on aromatic ''Som'' (''[[Machilus|Machilus bombycina]]'') and ''Sualu'' (''[[Litsea monopetala|Litsea polyantha]]'') leaves. Muga silk can be dyed after bleaching. This silk can be hand-washed with its lustre increasing after every wash.<ref name="CMER&TI">{{cite web | url=http://cmerti.res.in/aboutus.html | title=CMER&TI | publisher=CMER&TI | accessdate=31 January 2016}}</ref> Muga silk, like other [[Assam silk]]s, is used in products like [[sari]]s, [[Mekhela chador|mekhalas and chadors]].<ref name="Central Silk Board">{{cite web | url=http://www.csb.gov.in/silk-sericulture/silk/muga-silk/ | title=Muga Silk | publisher=Central Silk Board, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India | date=3 July 2014 | accessdate=27 January 2016}}</ref>

== History ==
{{Cleanup section|reason=overlaps (copy-paste like) with article [[Assam silk]].|date=December 2020}}
Sericulture in Assam is an ancient industry without a precise time of origin. Assam was well known for the production of high quality silk since ancient times. The craft of weaving goes along with the production of silk. It grew to such sophistication in Assam that it was known all over India and abroad. The first reference to Assam silk was probably in Valmiki's ''[[Ramayana]]''. In the ''Kishkindha Kanda'' of ''Ramayana'', it is stated that one travelling towards the east has to first pass through Magadha, Anga, Pundra and then the ''Kosha-karanam-bhumi'' ("the country of cocoon rearers").<ref>Sharma,S.K.,''Discovery of North-East India'', p.315.</ref><ref>Deka, Phani. ''The Great Indian Corridor in the East'', p.63.</ref><ref>M, Mignonette. ''Society and Economy in North-east India, Volume 2", 2004, p.316.''</ref> Kautilya’s ''[[Arthashastra]]'', a political literature of the 3rd century BC, makes references to the highly sophisticated silk clothing from Assam. Kautilya mentions the production of ''Suvarnakudyaka'' (from [[Kamarupa kingdom|Kamrupa]]) along with ''Vangika'' (from [[Vanga Kingdom|Vanga]]/southern Bengal), ''Magadhika'' (from [[Magadha]]) and ''Paundrika'' (from [[Pundra Kingdom|Pundra]]/northern Bengal), of which Suvarnakudyaka, Magadhika and Paundrika fabrics were types of ''Kauseya'' ([[Tussar silk|Tussar/Muga]]) and ''Cina-patta'' ([[Bombyx mori|Mulberry silk]]).<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://csboa.com/eBooks/Arthashastra_of_Chanakya_-_English.pdf |title=Kautilya,''Arthashatra'',p.110, "The above will explain the fabrics known as ''kauseya'', silk-cloth, and ''chinapatta'', fabrics of China manufacture."|access-date=2020-02-06 |archive-date=2020-11-12 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201112031454/https://www.csboa.com/eBooks/Arthashastra_of_Chanakya_-_English.pdf |url-status=dead }}</ref> The fact that Kamrupa produced Suvarnakudyaka is confirmed by the 8th century writer [[Kumārila Bhaṭṭa]] who, in his commentary of Arthashatra, said that Kamrupa was Suvarnakudya(''Kamarupeschaiva Suvarna Kudyah'').<ref>[https://www.jstor.org/stable/42930897?read-now=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A8bb7bac97d301458f7bb7ade2909cdba&seq=3#page_scan_tab_contents Dhavalikar, M.K., ''Archeology of Guwahati'', 1972, p.139]</ref> As per the Arthashatra, the fibres of Suvarnakudyaka were of 'the colour of butter', 'as red as the sun', and of the best quality.<ref>[https://csboa.com/eBooks/Arthashastra_of_Chanakya_-_English.pdf Kautilya,''Arthashatra'',p.110]</ref> Due to this description of colour, the type of silk can be easily identified as Muga. The text also refers to four trees (''Vakula'', ''Likucha'', ''Vata'' and ''Naga-vriksa'') which the silkworms feed on. Out of these, ''Vakula'' and ''Naga-vriksa''<ref>Journal Of Bihar And Orissa Research Society Vol. 3, p.215, "There is some doubt in identifying the ''Naga'' tree named in the ''Arthashastra''. Lexicographers take it to denote the tree, ''Naga-kesara and ''Punnaga'', the flowers of which possess yellow anther..A synonym of ''Naga-kesara'' is ''Champeya'', because the flower of ''Champaka'' (Michelina champac) is yellow; and it is no less remarkable that the Champa silk once celebrates in Assam was fine white." p. 212, "There is a variety of ''muga'' called ''Champa muga'', its worms feeding on leaves of Champa tree (Michelia champaca). Sir George Watt tells us that "the Chpa silk seems almost quite forgotten to-day, but it was the fine white silk worn by the kings and nobles of Assam in former times"."</ref> belong to the genus [[Ericales]] and [[Magnolia]] which the Muga silkworm [[Antheraea assamensis]] is known to feed on; while ''Likucha'' (Artocarpus lakucha) and ''Vata'' belong to the genus [[Moraceae]] (Mulberry) which the [[Bombyx mori|Pat Silkworm]] feeds on. This is further confirmed from the 9th century thesaurus [[Amara-kosha]] which mentions that the worms of the fibre ''Patrorna'' (a form of white silk), fed on the leaves of ''Vata'', ''Lakucha'', etc.<ref>[https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.55117/page/n230/mode/1up?q=assam Journal Of Bihar And Orissa Research Society Vol. 3, p.214, "A variety of ''Kausheya'' was called ''Patrorna''(Pat silk). It is defined in the Amara-kosha as "a bleached or white ''Kausheya''" and is said to have been costly...The commentator, Kshirasvami(of Amara-kosha), states that it is the fibre produced by the saliva of a worm on the leaves of ''Lakucha''(Artocarpus lakoocha), Vata(Ficus bengalensis), etc"]</ref> The Arthashastra also states that the fibre was spun while the threads were wet, indicating that the production method was still the same at that period.<ref>[https://csboa.com/eBooks/Arthashastra_of_Chanakya_-_English.pdf Kautilya,''Arthashatra'',p.109, "''and that which is the product of the country, Suvarnakudya, is as red as the sun, as soft as the surface of the gem, woven while the threads are very wet, and of uniform (chaturasra) or mixed texture (vyámisravána).''"]</ref> The ancient text [[Kalika Purana]](dated between 10th-11th century) well records the use of silk in the worship of deities in ancient Kamrupa. As per the text, while worshipping the deities at the ''Dikkarvasini pitha''(also known as [[Tamreswari Temple|Tamreswari]] of [[Sadiya]]), red, yellow and white ''Kauseya''(meaning wild silk, probably Muga) were used to drap the idols of the presiding deities of the temple.<ref>Shastri, B.N, "The Kalikapurana: Text, Introduction and English Trans. with Shloka Index", p. 1240, "The goddess in her Lalitakanta (pleasantly charming) form is known as Mangala chandi,...she wears red silk(''rakta-kauseya-vasana'')."</ref><ref>Shastri, B.N, "The Kalikapurana: Text, Introduction and English Trans. with Shloka Index", p. 1243-45, "O king! Listen to the procedure of worship of Brahma with rapt attention...Red silk(''rakta-kauseya-vastram'') is his (Brahma's) favourite cloth, rice cooked with milk, sesames, mixed with ghee are his favourite food."</ref><ref>Shastri, B.N, "The Kalikapurana: Text, Introduction and English Trans. with Shloka Index", p. 1259, "Vasudeva may be worshipped briefly or elaborately. Red, yellow and white silk are the favourite cloths of Vishnu..."</ref>It is known that Muga, in olden times, was available in yellow(natural), white(''Mejankari muga'') and often dyed red with lac.<ref>Journal Of Bihar And Orissa Research Society Vol. 3, p.212, "There was another of similar quality. It is known as the ''Mezankari muga'', the worm feeding on the ''Adakari tree'' (Litsea citrata)."This ''muga'' constituted the dress of the higher ranks, most of which were dyed red with lac but some were white." It is now scarce."</ref>

The knowledge of sericulture probably arrived with the [[Tibeto-Burman languages|Tibeto-Burman]] groups which arrived from China around the period of 3000-2000 BC. Moreover, there was another trade of Silk through the Southwestern Silk road which started from China, passed through Burma and Assam, finally getting connected to the main silk road in Turkministan. There are various other records to show that Silk came to India through Assam. As per the Sanskrit text ''[[Harshacharita]]'' (biography of North Indian ruler Harshavardhan written by the court poet Banabhatta in the 7th century), during the coronation ceremony of King Harshavardhan, king [[Bhaskarvarman]] of Kamrupa gifted many precious items to the North Indian king. Out of this the most important ones include the precious fabrics and jewels. These included an umbrella wrapped by a ''dukula'' cloth, sacks of ''patta-sutra'' cloth as well as ''ksoma'' fabrics which were as pure as the autumn moon's light (''sharada chandrama shaucha ksamani''). These fabrics could either be silk<ref>[https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.32096/page/n125 "Kirata-jana-kriti", S.K. Chatterjee, 1951, p. 95-96]</ref> or linen. It is also mentioned in the text that the loin fibres were so even and polished that it resembled ''Bhoj-patra'', which could indicate silk as well.<ref>[https://books.google.co.in/books?redir_esc=y&hl=ms&id=KItocaxbibUC&q=Silk#v=snippet&q=Bhurjapatra&f=false Suhas Chatterjee, Indian Civilisation and Culture, p. 435]</ref> There are also references of Assam silk in the records written by [[Xuanzang|Huen Sang]] where he has written the use and trade of silk in [[Kamrupa]] during the rule of king Bhaskar Varman. Ram Mohan Nath in his book "The Background of Assamese culture states that: ''"The Kiratas,(an early Mongoloid race in Assam, were traders in silk, a word that was derived from the Mongolian original word ‘sirkek’. The Indian word ‘sari’ is probably derived from the same word. “It is therefore clear that in ancient times traders from different parts of Tibet, Central Asia and China flocked to Assam through various routes, and as they traded mostly in silk, they were generally called Seres – Cirrahadoi – Syrities – Cirata-Kirata. The word Kirata therefore, is a general term referring to the people of the Mongolian origin and it refers specially to the Bodos.”'' These Bodos referred by Nath are today known as [[Bodo-Kachari people|Bodo-Kacharis]] which includes groups such as [[Chutia people|Chutias]], [[Bodo people|Boros]], [[Dimasa people|Dimasas]], [[Rabha tribe|Rabhas]], [[Sonowal Kacharis|Sonowal]], [[Garo people|Garo]], [[Koch people|Koch]] and many more. J.Geoghegan in his book "Silk in India" states that: ''"It is the Kiratas who introduced the cultivation of silk with its different varieties in Assam and it is from Assam that Silk was later introduced to mainland India. Whatever may be the date of the introduction of the worm, its geographical distribution at present day, and the fact species first introduced was a multivoltine, seem to me to lead to the conclusion that the insect was first introduced into India from the north-east (i.e. Assam)''".

Genetic research on silkworms show that Assam silk originated in two specific regions of Assam. One was [[Garo Hills]] in the ancient [[Kamrupa|Kamrupa kingdom]] and the other was [[Dhakuakhana]] in the ancient [[Chutia kingdom]].

As per the ''Naoboicha Phukanar Buranji'', Muga was adopted in the Ahom courts at later period. As per the text, one of the Ahom kings upon the advise of his ministers took the decision of introducing Muga, Paat clothing and employed a ''thousand Muga producers and weavers'' from the [[Chutia people|Chutia]] community to weave royal garments in the capital.<ref>[https://archive.org/details/3_20190901_20190901, Padmeswar Naoboicha Phukan, Assam Buranji, p.30]</ref> Before that the Ahoms are said to have worn black-coloured clothes. In the Assam Buranji, the Ahoms are mentioned as ''"Lunda-Munda Kula Kapur pindha luk"'' (black-clothed men) in the 16th century,<ref>[Mahanta,S. Assam Buranji.D.H.A.S.,1945, p.70.]</ref> which denotes they wore black cotton clothes till the 16th century similar to the other Tais of Yunnan and Burma. Due to this adoption of the clothing style of native rulers, Muga production received patronage from the [[Ahom dynasty]] in the later period of their rule. Royalty and senior mandarins were prescribed clothing made of the silk. Ahom kings were known to keep many costly muga sets in the royal storehouse for presentation to distinguished visitors to their court. Queens were personally involved in training weavers. The fabric was also a chief export of the Ahoms.<ref name="Phukan">{{cite journal | url=https://globaljournals.org/GJHSS_Volume12/2-Muga-Silk-Industry-of-Assam.pdf | title=Muga Silk Industry of Assam in Historical Perspectives | author=Phukan, Raju | journal=Global Journal of Human-Social Science | year=2012 | volume=12 | issue=9 | pages=5–8 }}</ref>

Although Silk was cultivated and woven by women all around Assam, the silk clothes of a particular place named Sualkuchi achieved much fame during the [[Kamarupa]] as well as [[Ahom kingdom|Ahom]] rule. Sualkuchi is said to have been established in the 11th Century by King [[Dharma Pala]] of the [[Pala dynasty (Kamarupa)|Pala dynasty]] that ruled western Assam from 900 AD to about 1100 AD. Dharmapala, the story goes, brought 26 weaver families from Tantikuchi in Barpeta to Sualkuchi and created a weavers' village close to modern-day Guwahati.<ref>[http://archive.indianexpress.com/news/trouble-looms/831610/ ''Trouble looms'']</ref> Silk was given royal patronage during that period and Sualkuchi was made an important centre of Silk weaving. The Hand-loom industry of Sualkuchi encompasses cotton textile, silk textile as well as Khadi cloth which are, in fact, traditional cloth endowing high social and moral value in and outside the state. However, Sualkuchi is well known for silk textiles both mulberry and muga silk. In fact muga, "the golden fibre" is produced only in Assam and it has also tremendous export potentiality. Such activities are intimately linked with the culture and tradition of the Assamese people since long past.

Muga silk was recognized as a protected [[geographical indication]] (GI) in 2007, and was granted a GI logo for trademark purposes in 2014. The logo has been registered with the Assam Science Technology and Environment Council.
The Central Silk Board of India has been granted the authority to inspect muga silk products, certify their authenticity and allow producers to use the GI logo.<ref name="The Telegraph">{{cite web | url=http://www.telegraphindia.com/1140428/jsp/northeast/story_18284649.jsp#.Vqt7xlIXVf4 | title=Finally, muga gets GI logo | publisher=The Telegraph, Calcutta | date=28 April 2014 | accessdate=29 January 2016}}</ref> This board is also involved in R&D and infrastructure development for Assamese silk, including muga, through the Central Muga Eri Research & Training Institute (CMER&TI) in [[Jorhat]], Assam.<ref name="CMER&TI" />

In 2015, Adarsh Gupta K of Nagaraju's research team at [[Centre for DNA Fingerprinting and Diagnostics]], Hyderabad, India, discovered the complete sequence and the protein structure of muga silk fibroin and published it in ''[[Nature (journal)|Nature]]'' Scientific Reports.<ref>{{cite news |title=Molecular architecture of silk fibroin of Indian golden silkmoth, ''Antheraea assama'' |author=Adarsh Gupta. K |url=http://www.nature.com/articles/srep12706}}</ref>

India produced 158 tonnes of muga silk in [[Fiscal year|FY]] 2014–15, out of which 136 tonnes were produced in Assam. India's total silk output in the same period amounted to 28,708 tonnes.<ref name="CSB Report">{{cite web | url=http://www.csb.gov.in/assets/Uploads/pdf-files/CSBAR-1415English.pdf | title=CSB Annual Report 14-15 | publisher=Central Silk Board, India | work=Annual Report 2014–15 | date=November 2015 | accessdate=29 January 2016 | pages=5, 123 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170809090716/http://www.csb.gov.in/assets/Uploads/pdf-files/CSBAR-1415English.pdf | archive-date=9 August 2017 | url-status=dead }}</ref>

== References ==
{{reflist|30em}}

[[Category:Wild silk]]
[[Category:Economy of Assam]]
[[Category:Textiles and clothing of Assam]]
[[Category:Geographical indications in Assam]]

[[as:মুগা]]

Muga silk - Revision history

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