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{{for|the mythical peak|Mount Meru}}{{for|the volcano in Tanzania|Mount Meru (Tanzania)}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=July 2015}}
{{Use Indian English|date=July 2015}}
{{short description|Mountain in India}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Meru Peak
| photo = File:Meru Peak cropped.jpg
| photo_caption = Meru's three peaks from left to right: Southern, Central, and Northern. The Shark's Fin is just left of the wide snow slope in the centre.
| elevation_m = 6660
| elevation_ref =
| prominence_m =
| prominence_ref=
| listing =
| location = [[Gangotri National Park]], [[Uttarakhand]], [[India]]
| range = [[Himalayas]]
| map = India
| map_caption = Location in northern India
| map_size = 250
| label_position = right
| coordinates = {{coord|30|52|5|N|79|1|56|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref =
| first_ascent =
| easiest_route =
}}

'''Meru Peak''' is a [[mountain]] located in the [[Garhwal Division|Garhwal]] [[Himalayas]], in the state of [[Uttarakhand]] in [[India]]. The {{convert|6660|m|ft|0|adj=on}} peak lies between [[Thalay Sagar]] and [[Shivling (Garhwal Himalaya)|Shivling]], and has some highly challenging routes. The name Meru likely originated from the [[Sanskrit]] word for "peak".

The mountain was formerly the site of the world's highest [[BASE jumping|BASE jump]] from a location on the surface of the Earth by Glenn Singleman and Heather Swan, from a height of {{convert|6604|m|ft|0}}, in June 2006, a record which has since been surpassed by [[Valery Rozov]]'s 2013 jump from the North Face of [[Mount Everest]].<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.theguardian.com/sport/video/2013/may/29/everest-valery-rozov-base-jump-video|title=Everest: Valery Rozov records world's highest base jump – video|first=Source|last=Reuters|date=29 May 2013|accessdate=25 September 2017|via=www.theguardian.com|newspaper=The Guardian}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.smh.com.au/news/world/leap-from-the-top-of-the-world/2006/06/08/1149359863372.html|title=Leap from the top of the world|date=8 June 2006|publisher=[[The Sydney Morning Herald]]|accessdate=2011-10-20}}</ref><ref>Blog by one of the BASE Jump climbing team {{cite web |url=http://www.itourist.com/members/blog/view.php?id=124 |title=Archived copy |accessdate=2010-01-22 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110713065347/http://www.itourist.com/members/blog/view.php?id=124 |archive-date=13 July 2011 |df=dmy-all }}</ref>

The mountain has three distinct peaks: southern ({{Convert|6660|m|ft|disp=comma}}), central ({{Convert|6310|m|ft|disp=comma}}), and northern ({{Convert|6450|m|ft|disp=comma}}). The two higher peaks were climbed earlier than the harder central peak, which was first climbed in a 2001 solo ascent by [[Valery Babanov]],<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.himalayanclub.org/journal/meru-peak-the-gate-to-the-sky/ |title=Meru Peak: The Gate to the Sky |year=2002 |publisher=The Himalayan Club (via Internet Archive) |accessdate=2015-08-20 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111020095521/http://www.himalayanclub.org/journal/meru-peak-the-gate-to-the-sky/ |archive-date=20 October 2011 }}</ref> twice by other teams in 2006,<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP17/newswire-meru-japanese|title=Japanese Climb Meru Before Czechs|date=20 November 2006|publisher=alpinist.com|accessdate=2011-10-20}}</ref> and for the first time along the "Shark's Fin" route in 2011.

== Shark's Fin route ==
This 1400m<ref name=":4">{{Cite web|url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/indias-sharks-fin-finally-climbed|title=India's Shark's Fin finally climbed|website=www.thebmc.co.uk|access-date=2018-07-02}}</ref> route to Meru Central follows North East Pillar,<ref name=":4" /> over the "Shark's Fin", a massive granite feature on the northeast face<ref name=":1">{{Cite news|url=https://www.outdoorjournal.com/focus-2/himalayas-hardest-climb-the-sharks-fin-on-meru-central/|title=Himalaya's Hardest Climb - The Shark's Fin on Meru Central|last=Journal|first=The Outdoor|date=2015-08-06|work=The Outdoor Journal|access-date=2018-07-02|language=en-US}}</ref> variously described as a "prow", "blade" or "nose".<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11f/newswire-meru-sharks-fin-anker-chin-ozturk|title=Shark's Fin Full Report - Alpinist.com|website=www.alpinist.com|access-date=2018-07-02}}</ref> Its exceptional difficulty is exacerbated by the fact that its most technical rock climbing is near the top, meaning that heavy gear needs to be carried almost all the way.<ref name=":0" /> It had been described as "one of the most attempted and most coveted lines in the entire Himalaya"<ref name=":4" /> and "one of the last remaining challenges of big wall mountaineering."<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/health-fitness/body/jimmy-chin-why-climbing-meru-peak-is-tougher-than-everest/|title=Jimmy Chin: why climbing Meru Peak is tougher than Everest|last=Bailey|first=Mark|date=2017-06-01|work=The Telegraph|access-date=2018-07-03|language=en-GB|issn=0307-1235}}</ref>

The route begins after a two-day approach, a 700m snow slope and a rock ramp.<ref name=":0" /> Next, is a steep, overhanging wall nicknamed the "Indian Ocean Wall" climbed with [[Aid climbing|aid techniques]] up to A4 difficulty.<ref name=":0" /> This is followed by the "Crystal Pitch", an overhanging and exposed section of aid climbing.<ref name=":0" /> The last section combines mixed and aid climbing.<ref name=":0" />

=== Attempts ===
American [[Mugs Stump]] attempted the route in 1986, thwarted by an avalanche on the lower slopes. In 1988 he tried and failed again, defeated by a lengthy snow storm.<ref name=":3">{{Cite news|url=https://www.mensjournal.com/features/conquering-sharks-fin-the-first-to-climb-mount-impossible-20140709/|title=Conquering the Himalaya's Shark's Fin: The First to Climb Mount Impossible|date=2014-07-09|work=Men's Journal|access-date=2018-07-02|language=en-US}}</ref>

A serious attempt was made by the primarily British team of [[Paul Pritchard]], [[Johnny Dawes]], Noel Craine, Dave Kendall and Philip Lloyd in 1993. This failure included Dawes losing a boot, and later having a major fall.<ref name=":4" />

Further unsuccessful attempts followed in the 1990s included [[Scott Backes]].<ref name=":3" /> In 1997, Nick Bullock, Jules Cartwright and Jamie Fisher achieved a height of 6,100m.<ref name=":4" />

Pete Takeda and Dave Sheldon made three attempts, in 1998, 1999 and 2001, all unsuccessful.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.marmot.com/inspirational/JBQtwLzm1RWk1npzN8DdSdPb.html|title=Marmot Athlete Pete Takeda {{!}} Marmot US|website=www.marmot.com|language=en|access-date=2018-07-02}}</ref>

In 2001, Russian [[Valery Babanov]] climbed the bottom part of the route to 5,800m before descending. He summited via a different route, which became known as "Shangri-La",<ref name=":4" /> later the same year.<ref name=":1" /> This was the first time Meru Central had been summited, by any route.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://armchairmountaineer.com/meru-peak/|title=Meru Peak|website=The Armchair Mountaineer|language=en-US|access-date=2018-07-02}}</ref>

In 2003, Americans Conrad Anker, Doug Chabot and Bruce Miller completed the bottom part of the wall, before veering off onto ice flutings, then eventually turning back.<ref name=":1" />

In 2004, a Japanese expedition failed after an accident injured one of the team members. The same team attempted again in 2006, but departed the Shark's Fin to reach the summit.<ref name=":3" />

In October 2006, Czech climbers Marek Holecek and Jan Kreisinger attempted the route, but departed the ridge halfway up to successfully pursue an easier route to the summit.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP17/newswire-meru-shark's-fin-holecek-kreisinger|title=MERU'S SHARK'S FIN REMAINS UNCLIMBED - Alpinist.com|website=www.alpinist.com|access-date=2018-07-02}}</ref>

In 2008, the team of [[Conrad Anker]], [[Jimmy Chin]], and [[Renan Ozturk]] climbed to within two pitches (150m) of the summit before turning back. They had experienced severe storms, forcing them to spend four days in the portaledge, depleting their food supplies.<ref name=":0" />

In 2009, Slovenians [[Silvo Karo]], Marko Lukic and Andrej Grmovsek unsuccessfully attempted the route, turning around at the base of the headwall, due to insufficient gear, poor acclimatisation and an Alpine-style approach.<ref name=":0" />

The first successful climb of the route was made in October 2011 by [[Conrad Anker]], [[Jimmy Chin]], and [[Renan Ozturk]],<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11f/newswire-meru-sharks-fin-anker-chin-ozturk|title=Shark's Fin Full Report|date=17 October 2011|publisher=alpinist.com|accessdate=2011-10-20}}</ref> the same team that had narrowly failed in 2008. The attempt was made only 5 months after Ozturk suffered serious spinal and skull injuries while skiing.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://gearjunkie.com/climber-renan-ozturk-injury|title=Climber Renan Ozturk On Injury, Setbacks & Persistence|last=Kurt|first=Alex|date=2015-11-13|work=GearJunkie|access-date=2018-07-02|language=en-US}}</ref> They overcame a broken portaledge, and a "mini-stroke" suffered by Ozturk,<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventure-blog/2015/02/01/climbing-film-meru-wins-audience-choice-award-at-sundance-interview-with-filmmaker-renan-ozturk/|title=Climbing Film 'Meru' Wins Audience Choice at Sundance|date=2015-02-01|access-date=2018-07-03}}</ref> but cited excellent weather as a major factor in their success,<ref name=":0" /> which was recognized also by Guinness World Records as the first ascent of this peak.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/news/2016/10/american-explorers-recognised-by-guinness-world-records-for-completing-the-first-446200|title=American explorers recognised by Guinness World Records for completing the first ever ascent of Meru Peak Shark's Fin|date=6 October 2016|publisher=guinnessworldrecords.com|accessdate=13 October 2016}}</ref> They reached the summit on their eighth day,<ref name=":3" /> then it took them three days to descend.<ref name=":2">{{Cite news|url=http://mentalfloss.com/article/67362/9-facts-about-climbing-mount-meru-and-making-documentary-out-it|title=9 Facts About Climbing Mount Meru—And Making a Documentary Out of It|date=2015-08-14|access-date=2018-07-02|language=en}}</ref>

In 2015, the feature film ''[[Meru (film)|Meru]]'' was released, documenting Anker's team's two attempts on the route. It included footage taken by Chin and Ozturk on both attempts, originally intended just for posterity.<ref name=":2" />

==See also==
* [[Meru (film)|''Meru'']], a 2015 documentary film about climbing the Shark's Fin route

==References==
{{Reflist}}

[[Category:Mountains of Uttarakhand]]
[[Category:Geography of Uttarkashi district]]
[[Category:Six-thousanders of the Himalayas]]

Meru Peak - Revision history

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