Mangalagiri Sarees and Fabrics - Revision history

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{{Use dmy dates|date=April 2018}}
{{Use Indian English|date=April 2018}}
{{Infobox geographical indication
| name = Mangalagiri Sarees and Fabrics
| color =
| logo =
| image =
| image_size =
| alt =
| caption =
| alternative names =
| description =
| type = [[Handicraft]]
| area = [[Mangalagiri]], [[Guntur district]], [[Andhra Pradesh]]
| country = [[India]]
| registered = 
| material = {{plainlist|[[Fabric]]
* [[Dye]]
}}
| official website =
}}
'''Mangalagiri Sarees and Fabrics''' are produced by performing [[handicraft]] [[weaving]] in [[Mangalagiri]], a town in [[Guntur district]] of the [[States and Territories of India|Indian state]] of [[Andhra Pradesh]].<ref>{{cite news|title=Geographical Indication|url=http://www.thehansindia.com/posts/index/Hans/2016-01-23/Geographical-Indication/201919|access-date=24 January 2016|work=The Hans India|date=23 January 2016}}</ref> It was registered as one of the [[handicraft]] in the [[geographical indication]] from Andhra Pradesh by ''Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999''.<ref name="GI">{{cite web |title=Registration Details of Geographical Indications |url=http://www.ipindia.nic.in/writereaddata/Portal/Images/pdf/Registered_GI_01_04_19.pdf |website=Intellectual Property India, Government of India |access-date=14 May 2019 |format=PDF}}</ref> The Mangalagiri fabric is produced by [[weaving]] with the help of [[Loom|pitlooms]] from [[Combing|combed yarn]] by [[warp and woof]] interlacing. The fabric then undergoes the process of [[dyeing]].<ref name=mangalagiri_fabric>{{cite news|last1=Raparla|first1=Deepa|title=The magnificent mangalagiri|url=http://www.thehindu.com/thehindu/mp/2005/05/10/stories/2005051000650400.htm|archive-url=https://archive.today/20160126114518/http://www.thehindu.com/thehindu/mp/2005/05/10/stories/2005051000650400.htm|url-status=dead|archive-date=26 January 2016|access-date=24 January 2016|work=[[The Hindu]]|date=10 May 2005}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Rao|first1=R. V.|title=Rural Industrialisation in India: The Changing Profile|publisher=Concept Publishing Company|isbn=9788170220176|page=54|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=XVJPDHAY93kC&pg=PA54&dq=Mangalagiri+Sarees+and+Fabrics&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj4z9eq8MHKAhXDc44KHfXmA2UQ6AEILjAA#v=onepage&q=Mangalagiri%20Sarees%20and%20Fabrics&f=false|access-date=24 January 2016}}</ref> The ''Nizam design'' is another characteristic of the fabric.<ref>{{cite web|title=APCO-The Andhra Pradesh State Handloom Weaves Co-Operative Society Limited|url=http://www.apcofabrics.com/mangalgiri.html|website=APCO Fabrics|access-date=25 January 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160114055825/http://www.apcofabrics.com/mangalgiri.html|archive-date=14 January 2016|url-status=dead}}</ref>

== History ==
The occupation of weaving is as old as 400 years as per some inscriptions found at this region. There was a migratory period for the weavers during the rule of [[Qutub Shahi dynasty|Qutub Shahi]] due to increase in taxes.<ref name=sarees>{{cite web|title=The Exquisite Sarees of Mangalagiri|url=http://aptdc.gov.in/blog/the-exquisite-sarees-of-mangalagiri/|website=AP Tourism Blog|access-date=25 January 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160201060621/http://aptdc.gov.in/blog/the-exquisite-sarees-of-mangalagiri/|archive-date=1 February 2016|url-status=dead}}</ref>

== Stages of production ==

The production of the Mangalagiri sari includes different stages which includes:<ref name=GI_description>{{cite journal|title=Geographical Indications Journal|date=11 September 2012|volume=45|pages=21–29|url=http://ipindia.nic.in/girindia/journal/Journal_45.pdf|access-date=26 January 2016|publisher=Government of India|format=PDF|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130809231943/http://ipindia.nic.in/girindia/journal/Journal_45.pdf|archive-date=9 August 2013|url-status=dead}}</ref>

*''Raw materials'' – pure [[cotton yarn]], silver and gold zari{{'}}s, synthetic and natural dyes and some chemicals.
*''Cotton purification'' – This process involves boiling of hank cotton to remove certain impurities, soaked overnight, rinsed and made suitable for dyeing process.
*''Dyeing'' – it involves [[bleach]]ing technique for white saris and for colored ones, [[Vat dye|Vat]] dyes are used.
*''Removal of excess dye'' – dyed or bleached yarn undergoes soaking in boiling water with some techniques to cut out excess dyeing.
*''Drying'' – after the above process, the yarn is dried and also adds light sensitive colors in shades

'''Pre-loom process'''

*''Winding of hank yarn into warp and weft'' – [[Spinning wheel#Charkha|charka]], shift bamboo and [[bobbin]] are used to form [[Warp (weaving)|warp]]. While, the [[weft]] is made with help of a [[pirn]].
*''Street sizing'' – the warp extension, spraying of [[conjee|rice conjee]] ensures suitable weaving followed by drying.
*''Weaving process'' – it involves [[Warp and Weft]] method of weaving and sometimes replaced by [[Jacquard weaving]]. Usage of only [[Loom|pitlooms]] for weaving, designing and cutting per the goods demand undertakes
*''Cutting & folding'' – woven cloth undergoes cutting per the goods demand
*''Inspection of sarees'' – inspection by the master weaver to rectify flaws
*''Marketing'' – the period of 1985 bought revolution with new market for dress materials than the saris

== Sarees ==
Mangalagiri saris are unique variety, woven from cotton and has the most characteristic features such like [[zari]] on the border and no woven designs on the body. As the town is also the abode of [[Narasimha Temple|Lord Narasimha Temple]], the saris are also used by the devotees for devotional purposes.<ref name=sarees /><ref name=GI_description />

== See also ==
*[[List of Geographical Indications in India]]

== References ==
{{Reflist}}
{{Sari}}
[[Category:Geographical indications in Andhra Pradesh]]
[[Category:Guntur district]]
[[Category:Saris]]
[[Category:Culture of Andhra Pradesh]]
[[Category:Amaravati]]