Kerala sari - Revision history

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	{{Use Indian English\|date=December 2019}}		{{Use Indian English\|date=December 2019}}
	[[File:Thiruvathira Kali During Onam.jpg\|thumb\|Women dressed in Kerala sari]]		[[File:Thiruvathira Kali During Onam.jpg\|thumb\|Women dressed in Kerala sari]]
	'''Kerala sari''' (Set-sari) ({{Lang-ml\|കേരള സാരി}}) is a clothing of women in the [[India]]n state of [[Kerala]].		'''Kerala sari''' (Set-sari) ({{Lang-ml\|കേരള സാരി}}) is a clothing of women in the [[India]]n state of [[Kerala]].

	==Mundum Neriyathum==		==Mundum Neriyathum==
	[[File:Scene from Gajendra Moksha Mural in Krishnapuram, 1730 CE.jpg\|thumb\| Women dressed in two-piece sari, scene from Kerala Mural, 1730 CE.]]		[[File:Scene from Gajendra Moksha Mural in Krishnapuram, 1730 CE.jpg\|thumb\|Women dressed in two-piece sari, scene from Kerala Mural, 1730 CE.]]

	It is worn as a garment that closely resembles the ''[[mundum neriyathum]]'' though it is not considered a true mundum neriyathum by classic definition. Traditional mundum neriyathum consists of a two-piece cloth, while Kerala sari is worn in a way to resemble navi drape using two-piece mundum neiyathum. Otherwise, the Kerala sari closely resembles the mundum neriyathum and is often worn by [[Malayali]] women as a [[:wikt:quasi-\|quasi]] mundum neriyathum.		It is worn as a garment that closely resembles the ''[[mundum neriyathum]]'' though it is not considered a true mundum neriyathum by classic definition. Traditional mundum neriyathum consists of a two-piece cloth, while Kerala sari is worn in a way to resemble navi drape using two-piece mundum neiyathum. Otherwise, the Kerala sari closely resembles the mundum neriyathum and is often worn by [[Malayali]] women as a [[:wikt:quasi-\|quasi]] mundum neriyathum.

	Surviving medieval Kerala mural paintings depict existence of three-styles of clothing worn by women, these include one-piece mundum, single-piece sari with over-lapping pleats resembling nivi-drape worn today by [[Mohiniyattam]] dancers and two-piece mundam-neryathum attire which evolved into Kerala sari.<ref>Wall paintings in North Kerala, India: 1000 years of temple art, Albrecht Frenz, Ke. Ke Mārār, page 93</ref><ref name="Boulanger"/><ref name= Mukulika>Miller, Daniel & Banerjee, Mukulika; (2004) "The Sari", Lustre press / Roli books</ref>		Surviving medieval Kerala mural paintings depict existence of three-styles of clothing worn by women, these include one-piece mundum, single-piece sari with over-lapping pleats resembling nivi-drape worn today by [[Mohiniyattam]] dancers and two-piece mundam-neryathum attire which evolved into Kerala sari.<ref>Wall paintings in North Kerala, India: 1000 years of temple art, Albrecht Frenz, Ke. Ke Mārār, page 93</ref><ref name="Boulanger"/><ref name= Mukulika>Miller, Daniel & Banerjee, Mukulika; (2004) "The Sari", Lustre press / Roli books</ref>

	==~~Kuthampully Sari~~==		==Weaving centers==
			Balaramapuram, Chendamangalam and Kuthampully are the three major sari weaving centres in Kerala, these clusters have been given a Geographical Indication Tag by the Indian Government and all three are famous for the weaving of Kasavu saris notable for its white cotton or silk textile with golden borders.

	~~In September 2011~~, the ~~Kuthampully sari~~ was ~~given geographical indication status~~ by the ~~Indian government~~. The Kuthampully ~~weavers belong~~ to ~~the Devanga caste who were brought~~ from [[~~Karnataka~~]] ~~to make garments for~~ the ~~Maharaja~~ of Kochi.<ref>{{cite news \|last=George \|first=Anubha \|date=6 October 2018\|title=For 500 years, a Kannadiga community of weavers has produced Kerala’s iconic white and gold saree\|url=https://scroll.in/magazine/881619/for-500-years-a-kannadiga-community-of-weavers-has-produced-keralas-iconic-white-and-gold-saree\|url-status=live\|work=Scroll.in\|location= \|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210701100352/https://scroll.in/magazine/881619/for-500-years-a-kannadiga-community-of-weavers-has-produced-keralas-iconic-white-and-gold-saree\|archive-date=1 July 2021\|access-date=1 July 2021}}</ref>		The Balaramapuram cluster weavers traditionally weave Kasavu saris and mundu. The Balaramapuram cluster is known for having a simple gold border and it is woven out of cotton and silk yarn.<ref>Preserving the famous legacy of weavers in Balaramapuram in Kerala capital https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/preserving-the-famous-legacy-of-weavers-in-balaramapuram-in-kerala-capital/article32413618.ece</ref> Chendamangal, the second cluster, is known for weaving saris with cotton and silk and striped golden borders. They are similar to Balaramapuram but with lesser emphasis on the golden border. It is widely believed that weaving in Chedamangalam was introduced by the Paliam clan. Called the Paliath Achans, these hereditary prime ministers to the Maharaja of Kochi have been associated with Chendamangalam from the 16th century onwards. The Devanga Chettiars settled in this region at their behest to serve the family's sartorial needs.<ref>Chendamangalam sari: a saga of hope and resilience https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/fashion/chendamangalam-sari-a-saga-of-hope-and-resilience/article32647783.ece</ref><ref>Read about the regained looms of Chendamangalam https://www.thehindu.com/society/keralas-design-community-got-together-to-bat-for-chendamangalam-handloom-in-2019/article30358790.ece</ref> The Kuthampully cluster is based in Thrissur District, their history dates back 500 years when their forefathers came to Kerala from [[Mysore Kingdom\|Mysore]]. The weavers of Kuthampully came under the patronage of the Kochi royal family, and had woven fabrics for the Royal family. The saris by Kuthampully weavers are quite different from the other two clusters as they include more patterns, borders and motifs.<ref>{{cite news \|last=George \|first=Anubha \|date=6 October 2018\|title=For 500 years, a Kannadiga community of weavers has produced Kerala’s iconic white and gold saree\|url=https://scroll.in/magazine/881619/for-500-years-a-kannadiga-community-of-weavers-has-produced-keralas-iconic-white-and-gold-saree\|url-status=live\|work=Scroll.in\|location= \|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210701100352/https://scroll.in/magazine/881619/for-500-years-a-kannadiga-community-of-weavers-has-produced-keralas-iconic-white-and-gold-saree\|archive-date=1 July 2021\|access-date=1 July 2021}}</ref>

	==Cultural costume==		==Cultural costume==
	[[File:തിരുവാതിര കളി.JPG\|thumb\|Thiruvathirakali dancers dressed in Kerala sari.]]		[[File:തിരുവാതിര കളി.JPG\|thumb\|Thiruvathirakali dancers dressed in Kerala sari.]]
	Kerala sari is regarded as the cultural costume of women of the [[Malayali]] community.<ref name= "Boulanger">Boulanger 1997, Ghurye 1951</ref> The grace and appeal of the golden borders contrasting with the otherwise plain white mundum neryathum of Keralite women has come to symbolize Malayali women. The sari is a hot favorite during the time of [[Onam]], not just in [[Kerala]] but in other parts of India as well. <ref name= Hindu2016a>{{cite news\| url=http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-metroplus/say-it-in-gold-and-offwhite/article9104929.ece \| location=Kochi, India \| work=The Hindu \| title=Say it in gold and off-white\| date=2016-09-14}}</ref>		Kerala sari is regarded as the cultural costume of women of the [[Malayali]] community.<ref name= "Boulanger">Boulanger 1997, Ghurye 1951</ref> The grace and appeal of the golden borders contrasting with the otherwise plain white mundum neryathum of Keralite women has come to symbolize Malayali women. The sari is a hot favorite during the time of [[Onam]], not just in [[Kerala]] but in other parts of India as well.<ref name= Hindu2016a>{{cite news\| url=http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-metroplus/say-it-in-gold-and-offwhite/article9104929.ece \| location=Kochi, India \| work=The Hindu \| title=Say it in gold and off-white\| date=2016-09-14}}</ref>

	==In popular culture==		==In popular culture==

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Notes

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{{short description|Sari originating from Kerala, India}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=December 2019}}
{{Use Indian English|date=December 2019}}
[[File:Thiruvathira Kali During Onam.jpg|thumb|Women dressed in Kerala sari]]
'''Kerala sari''' (Set-sari) ({{Lang-ml|കേരള സാരി}}) is a clothing of women in the [[India]]n state of [[Kerala]].
==Mundum Neriyathum==
[[File:Scene from Gajendra Moksha Mural in Krishnapuram, 1730 CE.jpg|thumb| Women dressed in two-piece sari, scene from Kerala Mural, 1730 CE.]]

It is worn as a garment that closely resembles the ''[[mundum neriyathum]]'' though it is not considered a true mundum neriyathum by classic definition. Traditional mundum neriyathum consists of a two-piece cloth, while Kerala sari is worn in a way to resemble navi drape using two-piece mundum neiyathum. Otherwise, the Kerala sari closely resembles the mundum neriyathum and is often worn by [[Malayali]] women as a [[:wikt:quasi-|quasi]] mundum neriyathum.

Surviving medieval Kerala mural paintings depict existence of three-styles of clothing worn by women, these include one-piece mundum, single-piece sari with over-lapping pleats resembling nivi-drape worn today by [[Mohiniyattam]] dancers and two-piece mundam-neryathum attire which evolved into Kerala sari.<ref>Wall paintings in North Kerala, India: 1000 years of temple art, Albrecht Frenz, Ke. Ke Mārār, page 93</ref><ref name="Boulanger"/><ref name= Mukulika>Miller, Daniel & Banerjee, Mukulika; (2004) "The Sari", Lustre press / Roli books</ref>

==Kuthampully Sari==

In September 2011, the Kuthampully sari was given geographical indication status by the Indian government. The Kuthampully weavers belong to the Devanga caste who were brought from [[Karnataka]] to make garments for the Maharaja of Kochi.<ref>{{cite news |last=George |first=Anubha |date=6 October 2018|title=For 500 years, a Kannadiga community of weavers has produced Kerala’s iconic white and gold saree|url=https://scroll.in/magazine/881619/for-500-years-a-kannadiga-community-of-weavers-has-produced-keralas-iconic-white-and-gold-saree|url-status=live|work=Scroll.in|location= |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210701100352/https://scroll.in/magazine/881619/for-500-years-a-kannadiga-community-of-weavers-has-produced-keralas-iconic-white-and-gold-saree|archive-date=1 July 2021|access-date=1 July 2021}}</ref>

==Cultural costume==
[[File:തിരുവാതിര കളി.JPG|thumb|Thiruvathirakali dancers dressed in Kerala sari.]]
Kerala sari is regarded as the cultural costume of women of the [[Malayali]] community.<ref name= "Boulanger">Boulanger 1997, Ghurye 1951</ref> The grace and appeal of the golden borders contrasting with the otherwise plain white mundum neryathum of Keralite women has come to symbolize Malayali women. The sari is a hot favorite during the time of [[Onam]], not just in [[Kerala]] but in other parts of India as well. <ref name= Hindu2016a>{{cite news| url=http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-metroplus/say-it-in-gold-and-offwhite/article9104929.ece | location=Kochi, India | work=The Hindu | title=Say it in gold and off-white| date=2016-09-14}}</ref>

==In popular culture==
Both the traditional and modern styles of the mundum neryathum are depicted in the paintings of the Indian painter [[Raja Ravi Varma]]. The mundum neriyathum was modified in several paintings depicting shakuntala from the mahabharatha to a style of draping now popularly known as the 'nivi saree' or 'national drape'. In one of his paintings, the [[Indian subcontinent]] was shown as a mother wearing a flowing nivi saree.<ref name= "Miller">Miller & Banerjee 2004</ref>

==See also==
* [[Sari]]
* [[Mundum Neriyathum]]
* [[Mundu]]

==Notes==
{{Reflist}}

https://www.keralasaree.com

==References and bibliography==
{{refbegin}}
*Boulanger, C (1997) ''Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping'', Shakti Press International, New York. {{ISBN|0-9661496-1-0}}
*Mohapatra, R. P. (1992) ''Fashion styles of ancient India'', B. R. Publishing corporation, {{ISBN|81-7018-723-0}}
*Alkazi, Roshan (1983) "Ancient Indian costume", Art Heritage
*Mahaparinibbanasutta (ancient Buddhist text)
*Miller, Daniel & Banerjee, Mukulika; (2004) ''The Sari'', Lustre press / Roli books
* Bjorn Landstrom (1964) ''The Quest for India'', Doubleday English edition, Stockholm.
* T.K Velu Pillai, (1940) "The Travancore State Manual"; 4 volumes; Trivandrum
* Miller, J. Innes. (1969). ''The Spice Trade of The Roman Empire: 29 B.C. to A.D. 641''. Oxford University Press. Special edition for Sandpiper Books. 1998. {{ISBN|0-19-814264-1}}.
* K.V. Krishna Iyer (1971) "Kerala’s Relations with the Outside World," pp. 70, 71 in ''The Cochin Synagogue Quatercentenary Celebrations Commemoration Volume'', Kerala History Association, Cochin.
* Periplus Maris Erythraei, ''The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea'', (trans). Wilfred Schoff (1912), reprinted South Asia Books 1995 {{ISBN|81-215-0699-9}}
{{refend}}

{{Kerala}}
{{Clothing in South Asia}}

[[Category:Saris]]
[[Category:Kerala clothing]]