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{{Short description|Wild silk from Odisha, India}}
{{Infobox geographical indication
| name = Gopalpur tussar silk
| image = Tussar Fabrics.jpg
| image_size =
| alt =
| caption =
| alternative names = ଗୋପାଳପୁର ଟସର ବସ୍ତ୍ର
| description =
| type = [[Fabric]]
| area = [[Gopalapuram, Jajpur district|Gopalpur]], [[Jajpur district]], [[Odisha]]
| country = [[India]]
| registered = 2009
| material = [[Silk]]
| official website =
}}
The village of '''[[Gopalpur, Odisha|Gopalpur]]''' in [[Jajpur District]] in the Indian state of [[Odisha]] is known for producing [[tussar silk]]. The [[handicraft]] received the [[Geographical Indication]] tag by the Government of India in 2009. The fabric may be used for [[dhoti]], [[shawl]]s, [[scarves]], and [[sari]]s.<ref>{{cite web|last1=sethi|first1=Pankaja|title=weaving threads of tradition- Traditional textile from gopalpur, Odisha|url=http://www.craftrevival.org/CraftArtDetails.asp?CountryCode=India&CraftCode=003693|website=www.craftrevival.org|access-date=31 January 2016|archive-date=27 May 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150527184738/http://www.craftrevival.org/CraftArtDetails.asp?CountryCode=India&CraftCode=003693|url-status=dead}}</ref>

==Process==
===Thread===
Women and girls usually reel the tussar threads holding 'natai'{{which lang|date=October 2020}} in their right hand and unwinding the thread around the [[Pupa#Cocoon|cocoons]] with their other hand. Twisting the filament, the weaver winds the yarns on the wooden 'natai' at a continuous speed. Embellishments are done by hand, either with extra weft or extra warp with a 'bandha'{{which lang|date=October 2020}} pattern in hand. The embellishments increase the value of the fabric. Alternatively, reeling machines are available.

===Spinning===
Traditionally, thread is wound around the chadaki{{which lang|date=October 2020}} to fill the [[bobbin]]s (''nali'') for weft with the help of a [[spinning wheel]] (charakha). ''Gandhi charakha'' or wooden charakha have been replaced by a metal part.

==Weaving==
Fabric is woven using a 'cut [[Shuttle (weaving)|shuttle]] technique', in which shuttles interlock with one another to form ''foda kumbh''a in the weft direction. Shuttles on both sides interlock with the main shuttle for the main body of the fabric. By tie and die bandha technique, the foda kumbha pattern is copied for multiple productions.

==Design==
Threads are dyed in different shades, such as maroon, red, plum and rust. Fabrics are designed in tussar and gheecha{{which lang|date=October 2020}} and enhanced with a weft and cut shuttle technique.

==Industry==
The tussar silk is mainly marketed by PWCS and SHGs{{clarify|What do these letters mean?|date=October 2020}} traders through the Boyanika (OSHWCS), Sambalpuri Bastralaya, SERIFED, Pvt. traders. Sales also take place at exhibitions and in local markets. According to a 2013-14 survey, 745 looms operate in this cluster. Around 5,000 people are dependent on this industry for income.<ref>{{cite web|title=Gopalpur Handloom-1 Cuttack, Orissa|url=https://gocoop.com/cluster/Gopalpur%20Handloom-1#zoom=16&lat=20.79826&lon=86.16907&layers=0B0TTTFT|website=gocoop.com|access-date=31 January 2016|archive-date=21 October 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161021153012/https://gocoop.com/cluster/Gopalpur%20Handloom-1#zoom=16&lat=20.79826&lon=86.16907&layers=0B0TTTFT|url-status=dead}}</ref>

==References==
{{Reflist}}
{{Odisha}}
{{Odia culture}}

[[Category:Geographical indications in Odisha]]
[[Category:Textile arts of India]]

Gopalpur tussar silk - Revision history

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