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Handloom sari

2022-07-15T07:54:48Z

Data ask 09: Added a cite for clarity information on handloom weaving sarees

{{short description|Sari woven by hand-operated loom}}
{{advert|date=December 2018}}
[[File:Sambalpuri Saree.jpg|thumb|right|Handloom saris]]

'''Handloom saris''' are a traditional [[Textile arts|textile art]] of Bangladesh and India. The production of handloom [[Sari|saris]] are important for economic development in rural India.<ref name=ijtk>{{cite journal|last1=Shailaja|first1=D. N.|title=An insight into the traditional handloom of Kinnal, Karnataka|journal=Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge|date=April 2006|volume=5|issue=2|pages=173–176|url=http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/123456789/6831/1/IJTK%205%282%29%20%282006%29%20173-176.pdf}}</ref>

Completion of a single sari takes two to three days of work. Several regions have their own traditions of handloom saris. The most traditional are made in West Bengal.{{citation needed|date=August 2020}}

== The weaving process ==


A handloom sari is often woven on a shuttle-pit [[loom]] made from ropes, wooden beams and poles.<ref>[http://www.qohindia.com/ "Handloom Sarees Online"]</ref> The shuttle is thrown from Tarsbhullar{{clarify|date=August 2020}} side-to-side by the weaver. Other weavers use a fly-shuttle loom which can produce different types of patterns. The saris can vary in size and quality.<ref name=ijtk />

Handloom sari weaving is generally a family enterprise and one of India's [[Textile industry in India|cottage industries]].<ref>[http://www.sarisafari.com/handlooms.html "Origin of Handloom Sarees"]</ref> The handloom saris are made from [[silk]] or [[cotton]] threads. The handloom weaving process requires several stages in order to produce the final product. Traditionally the processes of [[dyeing]] (during the yarn, fabric, or garment stage), [[Warp (weaving)|warping]], sizing, attaching the warp, weft winding and [[weaving]] were done by weavers and local specialists around weaving villages.<ref name="DAMA">[http://www.dacottonhandlooms.in/short-story/ "weaving"]</ref> However, currently most of the activities are outsourced.{{citation needed|date=August 2020}}

==Major regional weaving traditions==
Weaving takes place in many regions of India.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.csb.gov.in/silk-sericulture/silks-of-india/ |title=Silks of India|publisher=Central Silk Board, Ministry of Textiles}}</ref> Each region has tradition designs for the [[Motif (textile arts)|motifs]], design and colours. Handloom weaving<ref>{{cite web |title=Pure Handloom Weaving Silk Saree |url=https://www.samyakk.com/blog/pure-handloom-weaving-silk-saree/ |website=Samyakk}}</ref> takes place in villages supporting lakhs of families for their [[livelihood]].

==Types of handloom saris==
Some of the well-known Indian handloom saris<ref name="indian-handloom-saris">{{cite news|title=Types of Handloom Sarees|url=https://www.samyakk.com/blog/saga-handloom-sarees/|author=Samyakk}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.heritagetown.org/hsilk.htm|title=Varieties of Handloom Sarees}}</ref> are [[Kanchipuram silk sari]]s, Maheshwari sari, [[Bagh print]] sari, [[Chanderi sari|Chanderi silk saris]], [[Tussar silk| Tussar silk sari]], [[Banarasi sari|Banarasi silk sari]], Baluchuri saris, [[Sambalpuri sari]]s, [[Kantha|Kantha stitch saris]], Bhadhini saris and Munga saris. Some handloom saris are made out of high-quality silk fabric which is valued for its luster.

===Baluchari saris===
The designs on Baluchuri saris<ref>{{cite web|url=https://sareesofbengal.com/index.php/collections/baluchari.html|title=Baluchari Silk Sarees |first=Sarees|last=Baluchari|website=sareesofbengal.com}}</ref><ref>[http://www.silkmarkindia.com/blog/?p=95 " About Baluchuri Sarees"]</ref> feature [[mythological|mythology]] stories which can be seen in the temples of [[Bishnupur, Bankura|Bishnupur & Bankura]] of [[West Bengal]]. The [[Paithani|pallus]] and borders showcase elaborate designs of flowers, animals and royal court scenes. Some feature designs of [[Ramayana]] and [[Mahabharat]]a scenes narrating the stories. The most popular colours of Balachuri saris are green, red, white and yellow. [[File:Kanchipuram silk sareer.JPG|thumb|right|[[Kanchipuram sari|Famous Kanchipuram saris]]]] A master weaver usually takes 20–25 days to complete weaving of a Baluchuri sari.

===Kanchipuram saris===
The quality of [[zari]]<ref>[http://www.tn.gov.in/hhtk/dht/zari/zari-home.htm "Glory of South India"]</ref> used in weaving kanchipuram saris in [[Tamil Nadu]] is superior and attracts foreign visitors. The zaris used are generally [[gold]] and [[silver]].
[[File:Saree on display at Dilli Haat.JPG|thumb|right|[[Banarasi sari]]s]]

===Tussar saris===
Tussar sari<ref>{{cite web|url=https://sareesofbengal.com/index.php/collections/tussar-silk.html|title=Tussar Silk Sarees |first=Sarees|last=Tussar|website=sareesofbengal.com}}</ref> are soft to touch and are woven in areas of [[Chhattisgarh]], [[Jharkhand]] and [[Bhagalpur|Bhalgalpur]]. The bright colour combinations and the<ref>[https://www.unnatisilks.com/blog/tussar-silks-weavers-fabric-sarees/ "The Breathable saree "] by Unnati Silks</ref> breathable nature of the [[Textile|fabric]] make it unique.

===Banarasi saris===
Banarasi saris <ref>{{Citation|title=Bunkar: The Last of the Varanasi Weavers|url=http://www.imdb.com/title/tt7202190/|access-date=2019-04-21}}</ref> have been a valuable possession for [[brides]]. Woven by master craftsmanship of [[Uttar Pradesh]], they feature intricately woven designs with golden and silver threads. These saris are usually heavy and can be worn in [[List of Hindu festivals|festivals]] as well as at weddings.

[[File:Banaras weavers from handloom looms Bharatsthali.jpg|thumb|A handloom weavers works 10 hours every day at a BharatSthali handloom in [[Banaras]], [[Uttar Pradesh]]]]

==Impact on the economy and weavers' cooperatives==
The handloom sector plays a vital role in the country's economy and as a result evens the government are implementing several measures to optimize all the resources available. The handloom sector is the second largest economic activity after agriculture which involves nearly 30 lakh weavers. It contributes<ref>[https://www.nabard.org/pdf/OC%2022.pdf"NABARD"]</ref> nearly 22% of cloth produced in the country. The handloom industry belongs to the pre-independence period and the [[Economy of India|new economic policy in India]] is implemented to thrust this industry. The Textile Policy 1985 emphasised the promotion of handloom. According to the Handloom Census of 2009–2010, this sector provides employment to 4.33 million people.

In the 2010 census, 4.4 million families were engaged in hand weaving. In December 2011, the handloom industry wove 6.9 billion square metres of cloth. [[Andhra Pradesh]] is said to be the home of 359,212 weaver families who work in primary cooperative handloom societies. Primary Handloom Weavers Cooperatives (PHWCS)<ref>[http://www.dacottonhandlooms.in/short-story/ "PHWCS"]</ref> includes weavers within certain specific geographical limits and provides production work to the members. The cooperatives also see that the weavers receive fare wages and conduct various welfare measures.

==See also==
*[[Bunkar: The Last of the Varanasi Weavers|Documentary Film on Handloom Weavers of Varanasi]]
*[[Khadi]]
* [[Khādī Development and Village Industries Commission]] ([[Khadi Gramodyog]])

==References==
{{Reflist}}

==External links==
* [http://www.csb.gov.in/silk-sericulture/silks-of-india/ Central Silk Board ]

{{Bengali clothing}}

[[Category:Textile arts of India]]
[[Category:Handloom sarees]]
[[Category:Textile arts of Bangladesh]]

Handloom sari

2022-07-15T07:25:25Z

Data ask 09: changed a broken link

{{short description|Sari woven by hand-operated loom}}
{{advert|date=December 2018}}
[[File:Sambalpuri Saree.jpg|thumb|right|Handloom saris]]

'''Handloom saris''' are a traditional [[Textile arts|textile art]] of Bangladesh and India. The production of handloom [[Sari|saris]] are important for economic development in rural India.<ref name=ijtk>{{cite journal|last1=Shailaja|first1=D. N.|title=An insight into the traditional handloom of Kinnal, Karnataka|journal=Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge|date=April 2006|volume=5|issue=2|pages=173–176|url=http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/123456789/6831/1/IJTK%205%282%29%20%282006%29%20173-176.pdf}}</ref>

Completion of a single sari takes two to three days of work. Several regions have their own traditions of handloom saris. The most traditional are made in West Bengal.{{citation needed|date=August 2020}}

== The weaving process ==


A handloom sari is often woven on a shuttle-pit [[loom]] made from ropes, wooden beams and poles.<ref>[http://www.qohindia.com/ "Handloom Sarees Online"]</ref> The shuttle is thrown from Tarsbhullar{{clarify|date=August 2020}} side-to-side by the weaver. Other weavers use a fly-shuttle loom which can produce different types of patterns. The saris can vary in size and quality.<ref name=ijtk />

Handloom sari weaving is generally a family enterprise and one of India's [[Textile industry in India|cottage industries]].<ref>[http://www.sarisafari.com/handlooms.html "Origin of Handloom Sarees"]</ref> The handloom saris are made from [[silk]] or [[cotton]] threads. The handloom weaving process requires several stages in order to produce the final product. Traditionally the processes of [[dyeing]] (during the yarn, fabric, or garment stage), [[Warp (weaving)|warping]], sizing, attaching the warp, weft winding and [[weaving]] were done by weavers and local specialists around weaving villages.<ref name="DAMA">[http://www.dacottonhandlooms.in/short-story/ "weaving"]</ref> However, currently most of the activities are outsourced.{{citation needed|date=August 2020}}

==Major regional weaving traditions==
Weaving takes place in many regions of India.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.csb.gov.in/silk-sericulture/silks-of-india/ |title=Silks of India|publisher=Central Silk Board, Ministry of Textiles}}</ref> Each region has tradition designs for the [[Motif (textile arts)|motifs]], design and colours. Handloom weaving takes place in villages supporting lakhs of families for their [[livelihood]].

==Types of handloom saris==
Some of the well-known Indian handloom saris<ref name="indian-handloom-saris">{{cite news|title=Types of Handloom Sarees|url=https://www.samyakk.com/blog/saga-handloom-sarees/|author=Samyakk}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.heritagetown.org/hsilk.htm|title=Varieties of Handloom Sarees}}</ref> are [[Kanchipuram silk sari]]s, Maheshwari sari, [[Bagh print]] sari, [[Chanderi sari|Chanderi silk saris]], [[Tussar silk| Tussar silk sari]], [[Banarasi sari|Banarasi silk sari]], Baluchuri saris, [[Sambalpuri sari]]s, [[Kantha|Kantha stitch saris]], Bhadhini saris and Munga saris. Some handloom saris are made out of high-quality silk fabric which is valued for its luster.

===Baluchari saris===
The designs on Baluchuri saris<ref>{{cite web|url=https://sareesofbengal.com/index.php/collections/baluchari.html|title=Baluchari Silk Sarees |first=Sarees|last=Baluchari|website=sareesofbengal.com}}</ref><ref>[http://www.silkmarkindia.com/blog/?p=95 " About Baluchuri Sarees"]</ref> feature [[mythological|mythology]] stories which can be seen in the temples of [[Bishnupur, Bankura|Bishnupur & Bankura]] of [[West Bengal]]. The [[Paithani|pallus]] and borders showcase elaborate designs of flowers, animals and royal court scenes. Some feature designs of [[Ramayana]] and [[Mahabharat]]a scenes narrating the stories. The most popular colours of Balachuri saris are green, red, white and yellow. [[File:Kanchipuram silk sareer.JPG|thumb|right|[[Kanchipuram sari|Famous Kanchipuram saris]]]] A master weaver usually takes 20–25 days to complete weaving of a Baluchuri sari.

===Kanchipuram saris===
The quality of [[zari]]<ref>[http://www.tn.gov.in/hhtk/dht/zari/zari-home.htm "Glory of South India"]</ref> used in weaving kanchipuram saris in [[Tamil Nadu]] is superior and attracts foreign visitors. The zaris used are generally [[gold]] and [[silver]].
[[File:Saree on display at Dilli Haat.JPG|thumb|right|[[Banarasi sari]]s]]

===Tussar saris===
Tussar sari<ref>{{cite web|url=https://sareesofbengal.com/index.php/collections/tussar-silk.html|title=Tussar Silk Sarees |first=Sarees|last=Tussar|website=sareesofbengal.com}}</ref> are soft to touch and are woven in areas of [[Chhattisgarh]], [[Jharkhand]] and [[Bhagalpur|Bhalgalpur]]. The bright colour combinations and the<ref>[https://www.unnatisilks.com/blog/tussar-silks-weavers-fabric-sarees/ "The Breathable saree "] by Unnati Silks</ref> breathable nature of the [[Textile|fabric]] make it unique.

===Banarasi saris===
Banarasi saris <ref>{{Citation|title=Bunkar: The Last of the Varanasi Weavers|url=http://www.imdb.com/title/tt7202190/|access-date=2019-04-21}}</ref> have been a valuable possession for [[brides]]. Woven by master craftsmanship of [[Uttar Pradesh]], they feature intricately woven designs with golden and silver threads. These saris are usually heavy and can be worn in [[List of Hindu festivals|festivals]] as well as at weddings.

[[File:Banaras weavers from handloom looms Bharatsthali.jpg|thumb|A handloom weavers works 10 hours every day at a BharatSthali handloom in [[Banaras]], [[Uttar Pradesh]]]]

==Impact on the economy and weavers' cooperatives==
The handloom sector plays a vital role in the country's economy and as a result evens the government are implementing several measures to optimize all the resources available. The handloom sector is the second largest economic activity after agriculture which involves nearly 30 lakh weavers. It contributes<ref>[https://www.nabard.org/pdf/OC%2022.pdf"NABARD"]</ref> nearly 22% of cloth produced in the country. The handloom industry belongs to the pre-independence period and the [[Economy of India|new economic policy in India]] is implemented to thrust this industry. The Textile Policy 1985 emphasised the promotion of handloom. According to the Handloom Census of 2009–2010, this sector provides employment to 4.33 million people.

In the 2010 census, 4.4 million families were engaged in hand weaving. In December 2011, the handloom industry wove 6.9 billion square metres of cloth. [[Andhra Pradesh]] is said to be the home of 359,212 weaver families who work in primary cooperative handloom societies. Primary Handloom Weavers Cooperatives (PHWCS)<ref>[http://www.dacottonhandlooms.in/short-story/ "PHWCS"]</ref> includes weavers within certain specific geographical limits and provides production work to the members. The cooperatives also see that the weavers receive fare wages and conduct various welfare measures.

==See also==
*[[Bunkar: The Last of the Varanasi Weavers|Documentary Film on Handloom Weavers of Varanasi]]
*[[Khadi]]
* [[Khādī Development and Village Industries Commission]] ([[Khadi Gramodyog]])

==References==
{{Reflist}}

==External links==
* [http://www.csb.gov.in/silk-sericulture/silks-of-india/ Central Silk Board ]

{{Bengali clothing}}

[[Category:Textile arts of India]]
[[Category:Handloom sarees]]
[[Category:Textile arts of Bangladesh]]