https://en.bharatpedia.org/w/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=AbdurroufmollaBharatpedia - User contributions [en]2026-08-17T10:23:21ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.43.6https://en.bharatpedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dattirajeru_mandal&diff=432548Dattirajeru mandal2023-10-02T17:03:45Z<p>Abdurroufmolla: Seems we don't have an article about the mandal</p>
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<div>{{Infobox settlement<br />
| name = <br />
| native_name = <br />
| native_name_lang = te<br />
| other_name =<br />
| nickname =<br />
| settlement_type = [[Mandal]]<br />
| image_skyline =<br />
| image_alt =<br />
| image_caption =<br />
| pushpin_map = India Andhra Pradesh<br />
| pushpin_label_position =<br />
| pushpin_map_alt =<br />
| pushpin_map_caption = Location in Andhra Pradesh, India<br />
| coordinates = {{coord|18.5667|N|83.3667|E|display=inline,title}}<br />
| subdivision_type = Country<br />
| subdivision_name = [[India]]<br />
| subdivision_type1 = [[States and territories of India|State]]<br />
| subdivision_name1 = [[Andhra Pradesh]]<br />
| subdivision_type2 = [[List of districts of India|District]]<br />
| subdivision_name2 = [[Vizianagaram district|Vizianagaram]]<br />
| seat_type = Headquarters<br />
| seat = [[Dattirajeru]]<br />
| parts_type = [[Administrative divisions of India|Major villages]]<br />
| parts_style = para<br />
| parts = <br />
| unit_pref = Metric<br />
| area_footnotes =<br />
| area_rank =<br />
| area_total_km2 =<br />
| elevation_footnotes =<br />
| elevation_m =<br />
| population_total = 54,499<br />
| population_as_of = 2011<br />
| population_rank =<br />
| population_density_km2 = auto<br />
| population_demonym =<br />
| population_footnotes = <ref name=population>{{cite web|title=Census 2011|url=http://www.censusindia.gov.in/pca/SearchDetails.aspx?Id=628954|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150924135211/http://www.censusindia.gov.in/pca/SearchDetails.aspx?Id=628954|url-status=dead|archive-date=24 September 2015|publisher=The Registrar General & Census Commissioner, India|access-date=26 July 2014}}</ref><br />
| demographics_type1 = Languages<br />
| demographics1_title1 = Official<br />
| demographics1_info1 = [[Telugu language|Telugu]]<br />
| timezone1 = [[Indian Standard Time|IST]]<br />
| utc_offset1 = +5:30<br />
| postal_code_type = [[Postal Index Number|PIN]]<br />
| postal_code =<br />
| registration_plate =<br />
| website =<br />
| footnotes =<br />
| image_map = {{maplink|frame=yes|frame-width=300|frame-height=300|frame-align=center|type=shape|id=Q59850828|stroke-colour=#C60C30|stroke-width=2|text=Interactive Map Outlining mandal}}<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Dattirajeru mandal''' is one of the 27 mandals in [[Vizianagaram district]] of the state of Andhra Pradesh in India.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Bureau |first=The Hindu |date=2023-08-24 |title=Union Minister to lay stone for Tribal University in A.P. on Friday |language=en-IN |work=The Hindu |url=https://www.thehindu.com/news/national/andhra-pradesh/union-minister-to-lay-stone-for-tribal-university-in-ap-on-friday/article67232155.ece |access-date=2023-10-01 |issn=0971-751X}}</ref> It is under the administration of Tiruvuru revenue division and the headquarters are located at [[Dattirajeru]] village.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Divisions and Mandals {{!}} Vizianagaram District Website {{!}} India |url=https://vizianagaram.ap.gov.in/divisions-and-mandals/ |access-date=2023-10-01 |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Villages & Towns in Dattirajeru Mandal of Vizianagaram, Andhra Pradesh |url=http://www.census2011.co.in/data/subdistrict/4823-dattirajeru-vizianagaram-andhra-pradesh.html}}</ref><br />
<br />
== List of villages in Dattirajeru mandal ==<br />
<br />
# Balabhadra Rajapuram<br />
# Bhojarajupuram<br />
# Bhupalarajapuram<br />
# Cherakupalle<br />
# China Chamalapalle<br />
# Chinakada<br />
# Chowdantivalasa<br />
# Dasupeta<br />
# Datti<br />
# Datti Rajeru<br />
# Datti Venkatapuram<br />
# Gadabavalasa<br />
# Gadasam<br />
# Gobhyam<br />
# Gutchim<br />
# Ingilapalle<br />
# Kannam<br />
# Komatipalle<br />
# Korapa<br />
# Korapa Kothavalasa<br />
# Korapakrishna Puram<br />
# Lakshmipuram<br />
# Lingarajapuram<br />
# M.Lingalavalasa<br />
# Maradam<br />
# Marrivalasa<br />
# Neelakanta Rajapuram<br />
# Pachalavalasa<br />
# Pappala Lingalavalasa<br />
# Pedakada<br />
# Pedamanapuram<br />
# Porali<br />
# S. Burjavalasa<br />
# S.Chintalavalasa<br />
# Sarayyavalasa<br />
# Shikaruganji<br />
# ST valasa<br />
# Tadendoravalasa<br />
# Timiteru<br />
# Timiteru Burjavalasa<br />
# V. Krishnapuram<br />
# Vangara<br />
# Vindhyavasi<br />
# Viziarama Gajapathi Rajapuram<br />
# Viziaramapuram<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
{{Reflist}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Mandals in Vizianagaram district]]</div>Abdurroufmollahttps://en.bharatpedia.org/w/index.php?title=Khilji_Mosque,_Delhi&diff=426245Khilji Mosque, Delhi2023-09-07T09:10:30Z<p>Abdurroufmolla: </p>
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<div>{{Infobox religious building<br />
| name = Khilji Mosque<br />
| building_name = Jamaat Khana Mosque<br />
| religious_affiliation = [[Sunni Islam]] ([[Barelvi]])<br />
| image = Nizamuddin Dargah and Jamaat Khana Masjid, Delhi.jpg<br />
| location = [[Nizamuddin Dargah]]<br />
| district = [[South Delhi]]<br />
|coordinates = {{coord|28.591898765609585|77.24172952870865|display=inline,title}}<br />
| territory = [[New Delhi]]<br />
| country = India<br />
| administration = [[Aga Khan Trust for Culture]]<br />
| type = Mosque<br />
| ownership = New Delhi Tourism Department<br />
| architecture_type = Indo-Persian<br />
| founded_by = [[Khizr Khan]]<br />
| established = 1325<br />
| year_completed = 1325<br />
}}<br />
<br />
The '''Jamaat Khana Masjid''' ([[Urdu]]: جماعت خانہ مسجد )also known as the '''Khilji Mosque''' is one of the oldest mosques in [[New Delhi]]. It was built by [[Khizr Khan]] son of [[Alauddin Khalji|Sultan Alauddin Khilji]].<ref>{{Cite web |last=KHAWAJA |first=SAIF ALI |title=Walking Through History to Reach Nizamuddin’s Dargah |url=https://www.thecitizen.in/index.php/en/NewsDetail/index/9/15174/Walking-Through-History-to-Reach-Nizamuddins-Dargah-- |access-date=2023-08-16 |website=The Citizen - Independent Journalism {{!}} Indian News {{!}} The Citizen |language=en}}</ref> It was started in 1315 and ended up completely by 1325, It's work was stopped marking the death of [[Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya]] in April 1325.<ref>{{Cite web |title=NMMA |url=http://nmma.nic.in/nmma/builtDetail.do?refId=11693&dynasty=5 |access-date=2023-08-16 |website=nmma.nic.in}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |title=Delhi: 700-year-old-mosque gets glory back in 5 years |work=The Times of India |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/delhi/700-yr-old-mosque-gets-glory-back-in-5-yrs/articleshow/82038501.cms |access-date=2023-08-16 |issn=0971-8257}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Discover Delhi: The azaan at Jamat Khana mosque can enliven even the non-Muslim |url=https://www.hindustantimes.com/delhi/discover-delhi-the-azaan-at-jamat-khana-mosque-can-enliven-even-the-non-muslim/story-4ATdE3YIVI7V7bMUJU19cN.html |access-date=2023-08-16 |website=Hindustan Times |language=en}}</ref> It is under the [[Nizamuddin Dargah]] complex and used as a place of prayer at [[Dargah]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Jamaat Khana Mosque: The first-ever conservation of a living and unprotected mosque – Delhipedia |url=https://delhipedia.com/jamaat-khana-mosque-the-first-ever-conservation-of-a-living-and-unprotected-mosque/ |access-date=2023-08-16 |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=A detailed Account on Architectural Landmarks of the Sultanate Period |url=https://www.jagranjosh.com/general-knowledge/architectural-landmarks-of-the-sultanate-period-a-detailed-account-1490620114-1 |access-date=2023-08-16 |website=www.jagranjosh.com |language=en}}</ref> The entry gate is full of [[Quran]]ic Verses inscription.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Archnet > Site > Jamat Khana Masjid |url=https://www.archnet.org/sites/2534 |access-date=2023-08-16 |website=www.archnet.org}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Restoring an era of pious glorify |url=https://www.newindianexpress.com/thesundaystandard/2019/jul/21/restoring-an-era-of-pious-glory-2006968.amp |access-date=2023-08-16 |website=www.newindianexpress.com}}</ref> The Masjid is now taken care of by Barelvi [[Hanafi]] Muslims as only the [[Barelvi]] community is visiting tombs and Dargahs. It is being conserved by the Aga Khan Trust of Culture which was started in 2014.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Walla |first=The Delhi |title=City Monument – Jamaat Khana Mosque, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya’s Shrine |url=https://www.thedelhiwalla.com/2019/05/03/city-monument-jamaat-khana-mosque-hazrat-nizamuddin-auliyas-shrine/ |access-date=2023-08-16 |website=The Delhi Walla |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Using heritage to improve people’s lives: The Aga Khan Trust for Culture in Nizamuddin |url=https://indianexpress.com/article/research/using-heritage-to-improve-peoples-lives-the-aga-khan-trust-for-culture-in-nizamuddin-7874444/ |access-date=2023-08-16 |website=The Indian Express |language=en}}</ref><br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
{{Reflist}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Mosques in India}}<br />
[[Category:Mosques in India]]<br />
[[Category:Sufism in India]]<br />
[[Category:Barelvi mosques]]<br />
[[Category:1325 establishments in Asia]]<br />
[[Category:Aga Khan Trust for Culture projects]]</div>Abdurroufmollahttps://en.bharatpedia.org/w/index.php?title=Akhil_George&diff=394693Akhil George2023-07-20T08:46:10Z<p>Abdurroufmolla: Published a valuable reference.</p>
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<div>{{Short description|Indian cinematographer}}<br />
{{Orphan}}<br />
<br />
{{Use Indian English}}<br />
{{Use dmy dates}}<br />
<br />
{{Infobox person<br />
| name = Akhil George<br />
| image = <br />
| birth_name = Akhil George<br />
| birth_date = {{birth date and age|df=yes|1990|08|29}} <br />
| alma_mater =<br />
| birth_place = [[Kochi]], [[Kerala]], India<br />
| nationality =<br />
| occupation = [[Cinematographer]], Producer<br />
| spouse = <br />
| children = <br />
| yearsactive = 2017–present<br />
| awards = <br />
}}<br />
'''Akhil George''' <ref>{{Cite web |last=ചന്ദ്ര |first=അനു |title=‘2018’ൽ ചെവിയിലെ ഇൻഫെക്ഷൻ കാര്യമാക്കാതെ അണ്ടർ വാട്ടർ സീനിനായി ടൊവി വന്നു -അഖിൽ ജോർജ് {{!}} Madhyamam |url=https://www.madhyamam.com/entertainment/filmy-talk/cinematographe-akhil-george-interview-1159168 |access-date=2023-07-20 |website=www.madhyamam.com |language=ml}}</ref><ref>https://www.doolnews.com/cinematographer-akhil-george-on-2018-movie-shooting-experiences-64-129.html</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last= |title=‘Kala’ and ‘The Priest’ cinematographer Akhil George joins CBI 5! |url=https://onlookersmedia.in/latestnews/kala-the-priest-cinematographer-akhil-george-joins-cbi-5/ |access-date=2023-07-20 |website=onlookersmedia |language=en-US}}</ref> is an Indian [[cinematographer]], who works predominantly in the [[Malayalam cinema]] industry. He is a graduate of the BTech in Electronics and Media Technology at [[Karunya Institute of Technology and Sciences]], [[Coimbatore]].<br />
<br />
==Career==<br />
He started his career with the debut movie [[Adventures of Omanakkuttan]] in 2017 along with his college mate Rohith V.S, who directed the movie. Later gained acceptance for his collaborations with Rohith for the critically acclaimed movies Iblis and Kala. He did project design and jointly produced the movie Kala along with actor [[Tovino Thomas]] and Rohith V.S.<ref>{{Cite news |title=Kala Movie Review : A visual treat for those who love action movies |work=The Times of India |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/entertainment/malayalam/movie-reviews/kala/movie-review/81689624.cms |access-date=2023-07-20 |issn=0971-8257}}</ref><br />
<br />
==Awards==<br />
He received the 2018 Vayalar Rama Varma Film Awards for Best Cinematography<ref>{{Cite web |last=Anil |first=Revathy |title=Vayalar Rama Varma Film Awards Honor Soubin As Best Actor, Darshana As Best Actress, And Lijo As Best Director |url=https://theprimetime.in/vayalar-rama-varma-film-awards-honor-soubin-as-best-actor-darshana-as-best-actress-and-lijo-as-best-director/ |access-date=2023-07-20 |website=News Portal |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Vayalar Ramavarma Film Awards 2023: Nanpakal Nerathu Mayakkam Wins Best Film, Soubin & Darshana Best Actors |url=https://www.filmibeat.com/malayalam/2023/vayalar-ramavarma-film-awards-2023-nanpakal-nerathu-mayakkam-wins-best-film-soubin-darshana-best-356924.html |access-date=2023-07-20 |website= |language=en}}</ref><br />
<br />
==Filmography==<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+As cinematographer<br />
! Year !! Film !! Director<br />
|-<br />
| 2023 || ''[[2018 (film)]]'' || [[Jude Anthany Joseph]]<ref>{{Cite web |title=Jude Anthany Joseph’s 2018 becomes fastest Malayalam film to enter Rs 100-crore club |url=https://indianexpress.com/article/entertainment/malayalam/jude-anthany-joseph-2018-fastest-malayalam-film-100-crore-club-8611626/ |access-date=2023-07-20 |website=The Indian Express |language=en}}</ref><br />
|-<br />
| 2023 ||''Aap Kaise Ho?'' || Vinay Jose <br />
|-<br />
| 2022 || ''[[CBI 5: The Brain]]'' || [[K. Madhu]]<ref>{{Cite web |title=‘CBI 5: The Brain’ teaser to arrive on THIS day {{!}} Entertainment - Times of India Videos |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/videos/entertainment/regional/malayalam/cbi-5-the-brain-teaser-to-arrive-on-this-day/videoshow/90670178.cms |access-date=2023-07-20 |website=The Times of India |language=en}}</ref><br />
|-<br />
| 2021 || ''[[The Priest (2021 film)]]'' || Jofin T. Chacko<br />
|-<br />
| 2021 || ''I[[Kala (2021 film)]]'' || Rohith V. S.<br />
|-<br />
| 2020 || ''[[Forensic (2020 film)]]'' || Akhil Paul<br />
|-<br />
| 2019 || ''[[Kodathi Samaksham Balan Vakeel]]'' || [[B. Unnikrishnan]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2018 || ''[[Iblis (film)]]'' || Rohith V. S.<br />
|-<br />
| 2017 || ''[[Adventures of Omanakkuttan]]'' || Rohith V. S.<br />
|-<br />
| 2017 || ''[[Goodalochana]]'' ||Thomas Sebastian<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+As Producer<br />
! Year !! Film !! Director<br />
|-<br />
| 2021 || ''[[Kala (2021 film)]]'' || Rohith V. S.<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
{{Reflist}}<br />
[https://www.madhyamam.com/entertainment/filmy-talk/cinematographe-akhil-george-interview-1159168]<br />
[https://theprimetime.in/vayalar-rama-varma-film-awards-honor-soubin-as-best-actor-darshana-as-best-actress-and-lijo-as-best-director/]<br />
[https://www.filmibeat.com/malayalam/2023/vayalar-ramavarma-film-awards-2023-nanpakal-nerathu-mayakkam-wins-best-film-soubin-darshana-best-356924.html?story=4]<br />
[https://www.doolnews.com/cinematographer-akhil-george-on-2018-movie-shooting-experiences-64-129.html]<br />
[https://onlookersmedia.in/latestnews/kala-the-priest-cinematographer-akhil-george-joins-cbi-5/]<br />
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llUQEpVZnD4]<br />
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8xxWl-ehY4]<br />
[https://www.cinemaexpress.com/malayalam/news/2023/apr/30/first-single-from-2018-is-out-42869.html]<br />
[https://onlookersmedia.in/latestnews/kala-the-priest-cinematographer-akhil-george-joins-cbi-5/]<br />
[https://mammoottytimes.in/cameraman-akhil-george-talks-about-cbi-5-and-mammootty/]<br />
[https://www.pinkvilla.com/entertainment/south/2018-teaser-tovino-thomas-next-shares-the-heart-wrenching-tale-of-the-2018-kerala-floods-1203121]<br />
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltR5QDQGa2o]<br />
[https://www.desimartini.com/movies/trending/2018movie-box-office-the-tovino-thomas-starrer-is-on-its-way-to-becoming-the-second-blockbuster-of-2023-for-malayalam-cinema/f481d908b1157/]<br />
[https://www.deccanherald.com/entertainment/dh-talkies/a-different-kerala-story-1218290.html]<br />
[https://www.cinemaexpress.com/malayalam/news/2022/dec/01/jude-anthany-josephs-2018-first-look-to-be-out-on-this-date-37258.html]<br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
* {{IMDb name|7909555}}<br />
* {{facebook|akhilarakkal}}<br />
* {{instagram|akhilarakkal}}<br />
<br />
{{DEFAULTSORT:George, Akhil}}<br />
[[Category:Malayalam film cinematographers]]<br />
[[Category:1990 births]]<br />
[[Category:Living people]]<br />
[[Category:People from Ernakulam district]]<br />
[[Category:Cinematographers from Kerala]]<br />
[[Category:21st-century Indian photographers]]</div>Abdurroufmollahttps://en.bharatpedia.org/w/index.php?title=Clothing_in_India&diff=387786Clothing in India2023-05-13T00:21:56Z<p>Abdurroufmolla: Fresh addition.</p>
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<div>{{Short description|Variety of ethnic and cultural clothing worn by the people of India}}<br />
{{Use dmy dates}}<br />
{{Culture of India}}<br />
'''Clothing in India''' varies with the different ethnicities, geography, climate, and cultural traditions of the people of each region of India. Historically, clothing has evolved from simple garments like [[kaupina]], [[langota]], [[achkan]], [[lungi]], [[sari]], to rituals and dance performances.<!-- Clothing, along with accessories and [[embellishment]]s in India, also indicates the religion, class, and [[caste]] of a person.{{dubious}} --> In urban areas, western clothing is common and uniformly worn by people of all social levels. India also has a great diversity<ref>Admin. [http://www.lisaadelhi.com/traditional-dresses-and-fashion-culture-across-different-indian-states/ "Traditional Dresses and Fashion Culture across different Indian States"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180510184639/http://www.lisaadelhi.com/traditional-dresses-and-fashion-culture-across-different-indian-states/ }}, ''[LisaaDelhi]'', Retrieved 10 May 2018.</ref> in terms of weaves, fibers, colors, and the material of clothing. Sometimes, color codes are followed in clothing based on the religion and ritual concerned. The clothing in India also encompasses a wide variety of [[Embroidery of India|Indian embroidery]], prints, handwork, embellishments, and styles of wearing clothes. A wide mix of Indian traditional clothing and western styles can be seen in India.<br />
<br />
== History ==<br />
{{Main|History of clothing in India|Sari}}<br />
<gallery widths="160" heights="200"><br />
File:Mohenjo-daro Priesterkönig.jpeg|Statue of "Priest King" wearing a robe, [[Indus Valley civilisation]].<br />
File:Didarganj Yakshi statue in the Bihar Museum.jpg|The [[Didarganj Yakshi]] depicting the ''dhoti wrap'', c. 300 BC.<br />
File:Gandhara Buddha (tnm).jpeg|[[The Buddha]] wearing [[Kasaya (clothing)|kāṣāya]] robes, c. 200 BC.<br />
File:In Welcome of Buddha - ACCN 34-2542 - Government Museum - Mathura 2013-02-24 5941.JPG|Relief depicting men in [[antriya]] and [[uttariya]], first century AD.<br />
</gallery><br />
India's recorded history of clothing goes back to the fifth millennium BC in the [[Indus Valley Civilisation]] where [[cotton]] was spun, woven and dyed. Bone needles and wooden [[Spindle (textiles)|spindles]] have been unearthed in [[excavations]] at the site.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.textileasart.com/weaving.htm | title=Weaving in Ancient India | access-date=5 July 2012 | archive-date=22 November 2012 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121122175626/http://www.textileasart.com/weaving.htm | url-status=live }}</ref> The cotton industry in ancient India was well developed, and several of the methods survive until today. [[Herodotus]], an ancient [[Greeks|Greek]] historian described Indian cotton as "a wool exceeding in beauty and goodness that of sheep".<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.thenagain.info/Classes/Sources/Herodotus.India.html | title=Herodotus on Indian Cotton – Primary sources | publisher=thenagain.com | access-date=5 July 2012 | archive-date=25 January 2013 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130125225740/http://www.thenagain.info/Classes/Sources/Herodotus.India.html | url-status=live }}</ref> Indian cotton clothing was well adapted to the dry, hot summers of the [[subcontinent]]. The grand epic [[Mahabharata]], composed in about 400 BC, tells of the god [[Krishna]] staving off [[Draupadi]]'s disrobing by bestowing an unending ''cheera'' upon her.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://medium.com/indian-ethnic-fashion/6775fd474318 | title=Introduction to the Saree | date=20 December 2013 | publisher=Alvia Malik | access-date=20 December 2013 | archive-date=24 December 2013 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131224182307/https://medium.com/indian-ethnic-fashion/6775fd474318 | url-status=live }}</ref>{{Better source needed|reason=Personal/hobby blog post with unreliable dates, no references.}} Most of the present knowledge of ancient Indian clothing comes from rock sculptures and paintings in cave monuments such as [[Ellora Caves|Ellora]]. These images show dancers and goddesses wearing what appears to be a dhoti wrap, a predecessor to the modern [[sari]]. The upper castes dressed in fine [[muslin]] and wore gold ornaments<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.payer.de/quellenkunde/quellen1102.htm | title=Megasthenes' Indica | publisher=Tuepflis Global Village Library | access-date=5 July 2012 | archive-date=13 November 2012 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121113190905/http://www.payer.de/quellenkunde/quellen1102.htm | url-status=live }}</ref> The Indus civilisation also knew the process of silk production. An analysis of Harappan silk fibres in beads has shown that silk was made by the process of [[Silk reeling|reeling]], a process allegedly known only to China until the early centuries AD.<ref>{{cite journal | url=http://www.nature.com/news/2009/090217/full/457945a.html | title=Rethinking Silk's origins | year=2009 | publisher=nature.com | doi=10.1038/457945a | access-date=7 July 2012 | archive-date=5 November 2012 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121105012304/http://www.nature.com/news/2009/090217/full/457945a.html | url-status=live | last1=Ball | first1=Philip | journal=Nature | volume=457 | issue=7232 | page=945 | pmid=19238684 | s2cid=4390646 }}</ref> [[Kimkhwab]] is an Indian brocade woven of silk and gold or silver thread. The word ''kimkhwāb,'' derived from the Persian, means "a little dream", ''Kimkhwāb,'' known in India from ancient times, was called ''hiraṇya,'' or cloth of gold, in Vedic literature (''c.'' 1500 BC). In the Gupta period (4th–6th century AD) it was known as ''puṣpapaṭa a, '' or cloth with woven flowers. During the [[Mughal Empire|Mughal]] period (1556–1707), when ''kimkhwāb'' was extremely popular with the rich, the great centres of brocade weaving were Benares (Vārānasi), Ahmādābād, Surat, and Aurangābād. Benares is now the most important centre of ''kimkhwāb'' production.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.britannica.com/topic/kimkhwab|title=Kimkhwāb {{!}} cloth|website=Encyclopædia Britannica|language=en|access-date=2019-02-09}}</ref> When Alexander invaded Gandhara in 327 BC, block-printed textiles from India were noticed.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://study.com/academy/lesson/textile-printing-history-techniques.html|title=Textile Printing: History & Techniques {{!}} Study.com|work=Study.com|access-date=2018-05-20|language=en|archive-date=17 August 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180817060015/https://study.com/academy/lesson/textile-printing-history-techniques.html|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.beprimitive.com/LiteratureRetrieve.aspx?ID=139115|title=Printing in Progress... - History of woodblock printing|last=Imagawa|first=Misaki|access-date=3 June 2018|archive-date=17 August 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180817055846/http://www.beprimitive.com/LiteratureRetrieve.aspx?ID=139115|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite encyclopedia|url=https://www.britannica.com/topic/textile/Printing|title=Textile - Printing|encyclopedia=Encyclopedia Britannica|access-date=2018-06-03|language=en|date=|archive-date=21 February 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210221000227/https://www.britannica.com/topic/textile/Printing|url-status=live}}</ref><br />
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According to the Greek historian [[Arrian]]:<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.shsu.edu/~his_ncp/Indica.html | title=Indica(Arrian) on indian clothing | publisher=Sam Houston State University – TX | access-date=5 July 2012 | url-status=dead | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120525151841/http://www.shsu.edu/~his_ncp/Indica.html | archive-date=25 May 2012}}</ref><br />
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<blockquote>"The Indians use linen clothing, as says Nearchus, made from the flax taken from the trees, about which I have already spoken. And this flax is either whiter in colour than any other flax, or the people being black make the flax appear whiter. They have a linen frock reaching down halfway between the knee and the ankle, and a garment which is partly thrown round the shoulders and partly rolled round the head. The Indians who are very well-off wear earrings of ivory; for they do not all wear them. Nearchus says that the Indians dye their beards various colours; some that they may appear white as the whitest, others dark blue; others have them red, others purple, and others green. Those who are of any rank have umbrellas held over them in the summer. They wear shoes of white leather, elaborately worked, and the soles of their shoes are many-coloured and raised high, in order that they may appear taller."</blockquote><br />
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Evidence from the first century AD shows the Buddhas were portrayed as wearing saṃghāti that forms a part of the [[Kasaya (clothing)|Kasaya]] of Buddhist monks.<ref>{{cite journal | jstor=499859 | doi=10.2307/499859 | title=Gandhara and Early Christian Art: Buddha Palliatus | journal=American Journal of Archaeology | author=Benjamin Rowland Jr. | volume=49 | issue=4 | pages=445–448 | year=1945 | s2cid=191355022 }}</ref> During the [[Maurya]] and [[Gupta]] period, the people wore both stitched and non-stitched clothing. The main items of clothing were the [[Antariya]] made of white cotton or muslin, tied to the waist by a [[sash]] called ''Kayabandh'' and a scarf called the [[Uttariya]] used to drape the top half of the body.{{citation needed}}<br />
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<gallery widths="160" heights="200"><br />
File:Male head, northern India, Kushan or Gupta period, 5th-6th century CE, terracotta, HAA.JPG|Terracotta head, wearing possibly an early form of [[Pagri (turban)|pagri]] from the Gupta period.<br />
File:GuptaDanceMusic02.jpg|Ancient form of ''[[Churidar]]'' worn during the [[Gupta Empire|Gupta period]], c. 300 AD.<br />
File:Raja Ravi Varma - Mahabharata - Shakuntala.jpg|[[Shakuntala]], wife of [[Dushyanta]] and the mother of [[Bharata (Mahabharata)|Emperor Bharata]], from [[Kālidāsa|Kalidasa]]'s play ''[[Shakuntala (play)|Abhijñānaśākuntala]]'', wearing a [[sari]], painting by [[Raja Ravi Varma]].<br />
File:Iacuci11d0b62ppy.D.0.Ajanta-Cave-painting-Painting-Dance.jpg|Dancing girl in kurta-salwar-like choli; [[Gupta Empire]].<br />
File:Krishnacart.jpg|[[Gupta Empire|Gupta]]-period depiction of women in [[Ghagra choli]], 320–550 AD, [[Uttar Pradesh]], India.<br />
</gallery><br />
New trade routes, both overland and overseas, created a cultural exchange with Central Asia and Europe. Romans bought [[indigo]] for dyeing and cotton cloth as articles of clothing. Trade with China via the [[Silk Road]] introduced silk textiles using domesticated silkworms. [[Chanakya]]'s treatise on [[public administration]], the [[Arthashastra]] written around the third century BC, briefly describes the norms followed in silk weaving.<ref name="Chanakya's Arthashastra">{{cite web|title=The removal of thorns|url=http://www.sdstate.edu/projectsouthasia/upload/Book-IV-The-Removal-of-Thorns.pdf|work=Arthashastra|publisher=South Dakota State University|access-date=10 July 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110812055032/http://www.sdstate.edu/projectsouthasia/upload/Book-IV-The-Removal-of-Thorns.pdf|archive-date=12 August 2011|url-status=dead}}</ref><br />
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A variety of weaving techniques were employed in ancient India, many of which survive to the present day. Silk and cotton were woven into various designs and motifs, each region developing its distinct style and technique. Famous among these weaving styles were the [[Jamdani]], ''Kasika vastra'' of [[Varanasi]], ''butidar'', and the [[Ilkal saree]].{{citation needed}} [[Brocade]]s of silk were woven with gold and silver threads. The [[Mughal Empire|Mughals]] played a vital role in the enhancement of the art, and the [[Paisley (design)|paisley]] and ''Latifa Buti'' are examples of Mughal influence.{{citation needed}}<br />
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Dyeing of clothes in ancient India was practised as an art form. Five primary colours (''Suddha-varnas'') were identified and complex colours (''Misra – varnas'') were categorised by their many hues. Sensitivity was shown to the most subtlest of shades; the ancient treatise, [[Vishnudharmottara Purana|Vishnudharmottara]] states five tones of white, namely [[Ivory]], [[Jasmine]], August moon, August clouds after the rain and the conch shell.<ref name="Vishnudharmottara">{{cite web | url=https://archive.org/download/vishnudharmottar031493mbp/vishnudharmottar031493mbp.pdf | title=Vishnudharmottara purana | access-date=11 July 2012}}</ref> The commonly used dyes were [[indigo]](''Nila''), [[Common madder|madder red]] and [[safflower]].<ref name="Ancient pigments">{{cite web | url=http://condor.depaul.edu/sjost/gph205/paint-pigments/dyes.htm | title=Dies used in Ancient india | publisher=DePaul university | access-date=11 July 2012 | archive-date=17 June 2013 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130617015840/http://condor.depaul.edu/sjost/gph205/paint-pigments/dyes.htm | url-status=live }}</ref>{{efn|These were vegetable dyes, commonly used in textiles. Non-vegetable dyes were also used such as ''gairika'' (red ochre), ''sindura'' (red lead), ''kajal'' (lampblack), sulphate of iron, sulphate of [[antimony]] and [[carmine]].<ref name="Ancient pigments"/>}} The technique of [[mordant]] dyeing was prevalent in India since the second millennium BC.<ref name="Mordant Dyeing">{{cite web | url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/indian-textiles-introduction/ | title=Mordant dyeing in ancient india | publisher=Victoria and Albert museum | access-date=12 July 2012 | archive-date=19 October 2012 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121019113746/http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/indian-textiles-introduction/ | url-status=live }}</ref> [[Resist dyeing]] and [[Kalamkari]] techniques were hugely popular and such textiles were the chief exports.<br />
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Integral to the history of Indian clothing is the [[Kashmiri shawl]]. Kashmiri shawl varieties include the [[Shahtoosh]], popularly known as the 'ring shawl' and the [[pashmina]] wool shawls, historically called ''pashm''. Textiles of wool find mention as long back as the Vedic times in association with Kashmir; the Rig Veda refers to the Valley of Sindh as being abundant in sheep,{{citation needed}} {{efn|The [[Rig Veda]], Mandala 10, hymn 75, mentions the valley of ''Sindhu'' as ''suvasa urnavati'' i.e home to plenty of sheep{{citation needed}} }} and the god [[Pushan]] has been addressed as the 'weaver of garments',<ref name="Kani "/> which evolved into the term ''pashm'' for the wool of the area. Woolen shawls have been mentioned in Afghan texts of the third century BC, but reference to the Kashmir work is done in the 16th century AD. The sultan of Kashmir, [[Zain-ul-Abidin]] is generally credited with the founding of the industry.<ref name="Kashmir shawl history">{{cite encyclopedia | title=Kashmir shawl | encyclopedia=Britannica | access-date=12 July 2012 | url=https://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/312939/kashmir-shawl}}</ref> A story says that the Roman emperor [[Aurelian]] received a purple [[pallium]] from a Persian king, made of Asian wool of the finest quality.{{citation_needed}} The shawls were dyed red or purple, red dye procured from cochineal insects and purple obtained by a mixture of red and blue from [[indigo]]<ref name="Ctesias">{{cite web | url=https://www.livius.org/ct-cz/ctesias/photius_indica.html | title=Summary of Ctesias' Indica | publisher=liviticus.org | access-date=12 July 2012 | pages=section 39 | archive-date=16 July 2012 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120716183321/http://www.livius.org/ct-cz/ctesias/photius_indica.html | url-status=live }}</ref> The most prized Kashmiri shawls were the [[Jamavar]] and the ''Kanika Jamavar'', woven using weaving spools with coloured thread called ''kani'' and a single shawl taking more than a year for completion and requiring 100 to 1500 ''kanis'' depending on the degree of elaboration.<ref name="Kani ">{{cite book | title=Textiles, costumes and ornaments of Western Himalayas | publisher=Indus Publishing house | author=Omacanda Hāṇḍā | isbn=8173870764| year=1998 }}</ref><br />
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Indian textiles were traded from ancient times with China, Southeast Asia, and the [[Roman Empire]]. The [[Periplus of the Erythraean Sea]] mentions [[mauve|mallow]] cloth, [[muslin]]s and coarse cottons.<ref name="Periplus">{{cite web | url=https://archive.org/stream/periplusoferythr00schouoft#page/42/mode/2up | title=Periplus of the Erythraean Sea | access-date=15 July 2012 | pages=42}}</ref>{{efn| The Periplus states the various regions of production of cloth, including the Gangetic plain. Ancient Romans called Indian textiles by names such as ''gangetika'', nebula and ''venti'' meaning woven wind. [[Marco Polo]]'s Description of the world gives an idea of textile trade of the time, with a mention that Gujarat has the best textiles in the world.<ref name="Periplus"/>}} Port towns like [[Masulipatnam]] and [[Barygaza]] won fame for its production of muslins and fine cloth. Trade with the [[Arabs]] who were middlemen in the [[spice trade]] between India and Europe brought Indian textiles into Europe, where it was favored by royalty in the 17th–18th century.<ref name="European royalty">{{cite news | url=http://www.hindu.com/mag/2005/08/14/stories/2005081400190400.htm | title=Indian textiles in Europe | date=14 August 2005 | access-date=15 July 2012 | archive-date=20 January 2014 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140120004140/http://www.hindu.com/mag/2005/08/14/stories/2005081400190400.htm | work=[[The Hindu]] | url-status=dead }}</ref> The [[Dutch_East_India_Company|Dutch]], [[French East India Company|French]] and [[East India Company|British East India Companies]] competed for monopoly of the spice trade in the Indian Ocean but were posed with the problem of payment for spices, which was in gold or silver. To counter this problem, [[bullion]] was sent to India to trade for the textiles, a major portion of which were subsequently traded for spices in other trade posts, which then were traded along with the remaining textiles in London. Printed Indian [[calicos]], [[chintz]], muslins and patterned silk flooded the British market and in time the designs were copied onto imitation prints by textile manufacturers in Britain, reducing the dependence on India.<ref name="VAM">{{cite web | url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/indian-textiles-introduction/ | title=Indian trade with EIC | publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum | access-date=15 July 2012 | archive-date=19 October 2012 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121019113746/http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/indian-textiles-introduction/ | url-status=live }}</ref><br />
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Opposition to [[British Raj|British rule in India]], in particular the [[Partition of Bengal (1905)|1905 partition of Bengal]], sparked the nationwide [[Swadeshi movement]]. One of the integral aims of the movement was to attain self-sufficiency, and to promote Indian goods while boycotting British goods in the market.<ref name="Swadeshi">{{cite press release | url=https://www.academia.edu/1798102 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220624081250/https://www.academia.edu/1798102 | url-status=dead | archive-date=24 June 2022 | title=Swadeshi movement in India | publisher=WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO MAHARASHTRA | access-date=15 July 2012 }}</ref> This was idealised in the production of [[Khadi]]. Khadi and its products were encouraged by the nationalist leaders over British goods, while also being seen as a means to empower the rural artisans.<ref name="Swadeshi on artisans">{{cite book | title=A companion to the Anthropology of India | publisher=Wiley- Blackwell | isbn=9781405198929 | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ZlWDEb0j9KkC&q=swadeshi+movement+rural+artisans&pg=PA195| date=8 March 2011 }}</ref><br />
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== Female clothing ==<br />
[[File:Indian girl in saree.jpg|thumb|Indian girl in saree]]<br />
In India, women's clothing varies widely and is closely associated with the [[Indian culture|local culture]], [[Indian religions|religion]] and [[Climate of India|climate]].<br />
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Traditional Indian clothing for women across the country in Indian includes [[sari]]s worn with [[choli]] tops; a skirt called a [[lehenga]] or [[chaniya]] worn with choli and a [[dupatta]] scarf to create an ensemble called a [[ghagra choli]]; while many south Indian children traditionally wear ''[[Langa_voni]]''.{{citation needed| date=July 2012}}. Across India, saris are traditionally worn by married women although in areas such as [[Rajasthan]] and [[Gujarat]], for example, the [[Ghagra choli|chaniya choli]] (as it is called there) is worn by all ages. In many rural parts of India, traditional clothing is still worn today due to ease of materials, comfort and accessibility. Jewellery is hugely significant for Indian men and women. Men traditionally wear rings with stones or necklaces, and for women, there is an assortment of jewellery that includes [[maang tikka|maang-tikka]], earrings, nose rings, necklaces, bangles, waist chains, anklets and toe-rings - these all form part of the traditional [[Jewellery of India|Solah Shringaar]] for married Hindu women. A Hindu religious mark called a [[Tilaka|tilak]] is usually applied with sandalwood or vermillion between the eyebrows - and as such the modern iteration of the tilak known as a bindi is also worn. {{citation needed| date=July 2012}} [[Indo-Western clothing]] is the fusion of [[western culture|Western]] and [[South Asia|Subcontinental]] fashion. Other clothing includes the [[churidar]], [[gamucha]], [[kurti top|kurti]] and [[kurta]], [[dhoti]], [[lungi]] and [[sherwani]].<br />
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The traditional style of clothing in India varies with male or female distinctions. This is still followed in rural areas, though is changing in the urban areas.<br />
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=== Traditional clothing ===<br />
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==== Sari and wrapped garments ====<br />
{{Main| Sari}}<br />
[[File:Vidya Balan at Esha Deol's wedding reception 09.jpg|thumb|left|Purple silk sari worn by [[Vidya Balan]].]]<br />
[[File:Women in Karnataka wearing Kodagu style sari.jpg|thumb|Women in Karnataka wearing Kodagu style sari.]]<br />
A ''saree'' or ''sari''<ref name="Kalman2009">{{cite book |last=Kalman |first=Bobbie |title=India: The Culture |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=UuDBEsOF6G4C&pg=PA17 |access-date=6 July 2012 |publisher=Crabtree Publishing Company |isbn=978-0-7787-9287-1 |page=17 |archive-date=7 July 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140707201757/http://books.google.com/books?id=UuDBEsOF6G4C&pg=PA17 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name="BanerjeeMiller2008">{{cite book |last1=Banerjee |first1=Mukulika |last2=Miller |first2=Daniel |title=The Sari |url=https://archive.org/details/sari0000bane_p8w9 |url-access=registration |access-date=6 July 2012 |publisher=Berg Publishers |isbn=978-1-84788-314-8}}</ref> is a female garment in the [[Indian subcontinent]].<ref name= Roshan>Alkazi, Roshan (1983) "Ancient Indian costume", Art Heritage; Ghurye (1951) "Indian costume", Popular book depot (Bombay); Boulanger, Chantal; (1997)</ref> A sari is a strip of unstitched cloth, ranging from four to nine meters in length, that is draped over the body in various styles. These include: [[Sambalpuri Saree]] from East, Mysore silk and Ilkal of Karnataka and, [[Kanchipuram]] of Tamil Nadu from South, [[Paithani]] from [[Maharashtra]] and [[Banarasi]] from North among others.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.culturalindia.net/indian-clothing/sari.html |title=Indian Sari - How to Wear a Sari, How to Wrap a Sari, Indian Sari Fabric, Saree Design, Sari Fashion, Indian Dress Saree |access-date=3 July 2012 |archive-date=12 January 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170112230344/http://www.culturalindia.net/indian-clothing/sari.html |url-status=live }}</ref> The most common style is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist, with one end then draped over the shoulder baring the midriff.<ref name="Roshan"/> The sari is usually worn over a [[petticoat]].<ref name="Boulanger1997">{{cite book |author=Chantal Boulanger |title=Saris: an illustrated guide to the Indian art of draping |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=_1pEAAAAYAAJ |access-date=15 July 2012 |publisher=Shakti Press International |isbn=9780966149616 |archive-date=7 July 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140707195325/http://books.google.com/books?id=_1pEAAAAYAAJ |url-status=live }}</ref> Blouse may be "backless" or of a halter neck style. These are usually more dressy with a lot of embellishments such as mirrors or embroidery and may be worn on special occasions. Women in the armed forces, when wearing a sari uniform, don a half-sleeve shirt tucked in at the waist. Teenage girls may wear half-sarees, a three-piece set consisting of a langa, a choli and a [[Stole (shawl)|stole]] wrapped over it like a saree. Women usually wear full sarees. Indian [[wedding sari]]s are typically red or pink, a tradition that goes back to India's pre-modern history.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Ramdya |first1=Kavita |title=Bollywood weddings : dating, engagement, and marriage in Hindu America |publisher=Lexington Books |location=Lanham |isbn=9780739138540 |page=45 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Y2MpN1ZfDHkC&pg=PA45 |access-date=30 August 2017 |archive-date=29 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200729142325/https://books.google.com/books?id=Y2MpN1ZfDHkC&pg=PA45 |url-status=live }}</ref><br />
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Saris are usually known by different names in different places. In [[Kerala]], white saris with golden borders, are known as ''kavanis'' and are worn on special occasions. A simple white sari, worn as a daily wear, is called a ''mundu''. Saris are called ''pudavai'' in [[Tamil Nadu]]. In [[Karnataka]], saris are called ''Seere''.<ref name="Seethapalli">{{cite book|author=Geeta Kochhar, Radha Seethapalli|title=Environmental Education|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=9RxBTLdFn-QC&pg=PA31|access-date=15 July 2012|publisher=Frank Brothers|isbn=978-81-7170-946-5|page=31|archive-date=7 July 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140707191030/http://books.google.com/books?id=9RxBTLdFn-QC&pg=PA31|url-status=live}}</ref> The traditional production of [[handloom saree]]s is important to economic development in rural communities.<ref name=ijtk>{{cite journal|last1=Shailaja|first1=D. N.|title=An insight into the traditional handloom of Kinnal, Karnataka|journal=Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge|volume=5|issue=2|pages=173–176|url=http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/123456789/6831/1/IJTK%205%282%29%20%282006%29%20173-176.pdf|access-date=14 December 2015|archive-date=22 December 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151222110827/http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/123456789/6831/1/IJTK%205%282%29%20%282006%29%20173-176.pdf|url-status=live}}</ref> The Sari Series<ref>{{Cite news|last=Mathew|first=Elizabeth|title=The Sari Series: One country, 83 ways to drape it|language=en-IN|work=The Hindu|url=https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/fashion/the-sari-series-one-country-83-ways-to-drape-it/article19932078.ece|access-date=2020-10-21|issn=0971-751X|archive-date=26 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201026060737/https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/fashion/the-sari-series-one-country-83-ways-to-drape-it/article19932078.ece|url-status=live}}</ref> provides a documented resource of over 80 different regional drapes of India.<br />
<br />
; Mundum Neriyathum<br />
{{Main|Mundum Neriyathum}}<br />
[[File:Raja Ravi Varma, Malayalee Lady.jpg|thumb|right|Malayalee lady wearing mundum neriyathum. Painted by [[Raja Ravi Varma]], c. 1900.]]<br />
''Mundum Neriyathum'' is the oldest remnant of the ancient form of the [[saree]] which covered only the lower part of the body. It is the traditional dress of women in [[Kerala]], a state in the southwestern part of India.<ref name="Boulanger">Boulanger, C (1997) Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping, Shakti Press International, New York. {{ISBN|0-9661496-1-0}}</ref><ref name="Ghurye">Ghurye (1951) "Indian costume", Popular book depot (Bombay)</ref><br />
The basic traditional piece is the ''[[mundu]]'' or lower garment which is the ancient form of the saree denoted in [[Malayalam]] as 'Thuni' (meaning cloth), while the ''neriyathu'' forms the upper garment the mundu.<ref name="Boulanger"/><ref name="Ghurye"/><br />
<br />
;Mekhela Sador<br />
{{Main|Mekhela chador}}<br />
[[File:DWIJEN (43).jpg|thumb|left|An Assamese girl wearing mekhela sador, 2010]]<br />
<br />
Mekhela Sador (Assamese: মেখেলা চাদৰ) is the traditional Assamese dress worn by women. It is worn by women of all ages.<br />
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There are three main pieces of cloth that are draped around the body.<br />
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The bottom portion, draped from the waist downwards is called the ''Mekhela'' (Assamese: মেখেলা). It is in the form of a sarong—a very wide cylinder of cloth—that is folded into pleats to fit around the waist and tucked in. The folds are to the right, as opposed to the pleats in the Nivi style of the saree, which are folded to the left. Strings are never used to tie the [[mekhela]] around the waist, though an underskirt with a string is often used.<br />
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The top portion of the three-piece dress, called the ''Sador'' (Assamese: চাদৰ), is a long length of cloth that has one end tucked into the upper portion of the Mekhela and the rest draped over and around the rest of the body. The Sador is tucked in triangular folds. A fitted blouse is worn to cover the breasts.<br />
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The third piece is called a ''Riha'', which is worn under the Sador. It is narrow in width. This traditional dress of the Assamese women is very famous for their exclusive patterns on the body and the border. Women wear them during important religious and ceremonious occasions of marriage. Riha is worn exactly like a Sador and is used as ''Orni''.<br />
<br />
; Rignai<br />
{{main|Rignai}}<br />
[[File:Tripuri bride.jpg|thumb|Tripuri bride in Rignai and Rikutu]]<br />
<br />
'''Rignai''' is the traditional dress of Tripuri women, the native inhabitants of Tripura. It is worn by wrapping it around the waist. It's worn with "Rikutu" which covers the upper half of the body. It is worn by every Tripuri woman in Tripura.{{cn}}<br />
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The most significant rignai is called the "Chamathwi bar" and comprises white cloth bordered by maroon or other colors. The "Chamathwi bar" is worn during important occasions like wedding ceremonies and festivals like Goria Puja and Hangrai.<br />
<br />
==== Salwar Kameez ====<br />
{{Main|Shalwar kameez}}<br />
{{multiple image<br />
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|footer=Sikh pilgrims in ''salwar kameez'' at the ''[[Harmandir Sahib]]'' in Punjab (left); Four women wearing Salwar Kameez in Puducherry, 2006 (right)<br />
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<br />
The salwar is a generic description of the lower garment incorporating the Punjabi salwar, Sindhi suthan, Dogri pajama (also called suthan), and the Kashmiri suthan. The ''salwar kameez'' has been traditionally worn by the women of the [[Punjab region]] and neighbouring areas, including [[Punjab, India|Punjab]], Haryana, [[Himachal Pradesh]] and Jammu and Kashmir, where the ensemble has been called the ''Punjabi suit'', ''salwar suit'' or simply ''suit''. The Punjabi suit also includes the "churidaar" and "kurta" ensemble which is also popular in Southern India where it is known as the "churidaar".<ref name="Tarlo1996">{{cite book|last=Tarlo|first=Emma|title=Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8wyM5heEc9gC&pg=PA9|year=1996|publisher=Hurst|isbn=978-1-85065-176-5|page=9|access-date=15 November 2015|archive-date=23 July 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160723015648/https://books.google.com/books?id=8wyM5heEc9gC&pg=PA9|url-status=live}}</ref><br />
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The material for the ''dupatta'' usually depends upon that of the suit and is generally of cotton, [[Georgette (fabric)|georgette]], silk, [[Chiffon (fabric)|chiffon]] among others. {{citation needed}}<br />
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The suthan, similar to the salwar is common in [[Sindh]] where it is worn with the [[Sindhi dress|cholo]]<ref name="Winer2009">{{cite book|author=Lise Winer|title=Dictionary of the English/Creole of Trinidad & Tobago: On Historical Principles|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=_n82hsbDJBMC&pg=PA808|access-date=8 July 2012|publisher=McGill-Queen's Press – MQUP|isbn=978-0-7735-3406-3|page=808|archive-date=31 December 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131231212603/http://books.google.com/books?id=_n82hsbDJBMC&pg=PA808|url-status=live}}</ref> and [[Kashmir]] where it is worn with the [[Phiran]].<ref>Kapur, Manohar Lal (1992) Social and economic history of Jammu and Kashmir State, 1885-1925 A.D. [https://books.google.com/books?id=3ecbAAAAIAAJ&q=suthan] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170321054830/https://books.google.com/books?ei=ADmDVfeOMML4ygPY4YP4Dw&id=3ecbAAAAIAAJ&dq=jammu+suthan&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=suthan}}</ref> The Kashmiri phiran is similar to the [[Jammu dress|Dogri pajama]]. The [[patiala salwar]] is an exaggeratedly wide version of the salwar, its loose pleats stitched together at the bottom.<ref>{{cite book |editor1-last=Ghose |editor1-first=Anna |editor2-last=Mohapatra |editor2-first=Madhuita |editor3-last=Mohindra |editor3-first=Vandana |editor4-last=Saklani |editor4-first=Ranjana |editor5-last=Sheth |editor5-first=Alissa |title=DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: India |publisher=Dorling Kindersley Ltd |isbn=9781405369367 |page=102 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=PJJxZoQ7hKsC&pg=PA102 |access-date=30 August 2017 |archive-date=29 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200729150827/https://books.google.com/books?id=PJJxZoQ7hKsC&pg=PA102 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Sandhu |first1=Arti |title=Indian Fashion: Tradition, Innovation, Style |publisher=Bloomsbury |isbn=9781472590855 |page=16 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=gn0eBQAAQBAJ&pg=PT16 |access-date=30 August 2017 |archive-date=29 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200729143900/https://books.google.com/books?id=gn0eBQAAQBAJ&pg=PT16 |url-status=live }}</ref><br />
<br />
====Churidaar====<br />
{{Main|Churidar}}<br />
[[File:GuptaDanceMusic02.jpg|right|thumb|Ancient form of ''[[Churidar]]'' worn during the [[Gupta Empire|Gupta period]].]]<br />
''Churidaar'' is a variation on the Punjabi suit which is worn by women across India as casual attire or dressed up for occasions as an alternative to the sari or lehenga choli. <br />
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The punjabi suit trouser, called the salwar and worn in the Punjab regions of India and Pakistan and across Pakistan generally, is baggy and caught in at the ankle. <br />
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However the churidaar is tightly fitted especially below the knees. The material for the leg length below the knee is exaggerated so that the material can bunch together at the ankle with horizontal gathers resembling a stack of bangles which are known as ‘churi’ or ‘churiya’. <ref name="The Times of India annual">{{cite book|title=The Times of India annual|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Q3pDAAAAYAAJ|year=1954|access-date=15 November 2015|archive-date=19 May 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160519070756/https://books.google.com/books?id=Q3pDAAAAYAAJ|url-status=live}}</ref> The ''churidaar'' is worn with an upper garment such as a ''kurta'' top and the length of this may vary depending on the wearer’s choice. In India, many churidaar tops resemble the traditional choli as they include a tight-fitting bodice and ties at the back however extra material is added from the end of the choli at the midriff to make a knee-length top, for example. Churidaars are also worn with dupattas, also known as chunnaris. <br />
<br />
; Anarkali Suit<br />
{{Main|Anarkali Salwar Suit}}<br />
[[File:Priyanka Chopra walks for Manish Malhotra & Shaina NC's show for CPAA 02.jpg|thumb|left|[[Priyanka Chopra]], a Bollywood actress, in an Anarkali suit.]]<br />
The Anarkali suit is made up of a long, frock-style top and features a leggings style bottom. The Anarkali is worn by some women in Northern India and mostly found in Pakistan, and the Middle East. The Anarkali suit varies in many different lengths and embroideries including floor length Anarkali styles. Many women will also opt for heavier embroidered Anarkali suits on wedding functions and events. <br />
<br />
Some Indian women wear Anarkali suits on occasions as well such as parties, casual lunches, etc. In India, the Anarkali is sleeveless or with sleeves ranging from cap- to elbow-length.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://dawn.com/2012/02/12/legend-anarkali-myth-mystery-and-history/ |title=Legend: Anarkali: Myth, mystery and history |access-date=18 September 2015 |archive-date=16 December 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121216050404/http://dawn.com/2012/02/12/legend-anarkali-myth-mystery-and-history/ |url-status=live }}</ref><br />
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==== Lehenga Choli (skirt and blouse) ====<br />
<br />
{{Main|Ghagra choli}}<br />
<br />
A ''Ghagra Choli'' or a ''Lehenga Choli'' is the traditional clothing of women in [[Rajasthan]] and [[Gujarat]].{{citation needed| date=July 2012}} Some Punjabis also wear them and they are used in some of their folk dances. It is a combination of ''lehenga'', a tight ''choli'' and an ''odhani''. A ''lehenga'' is a form of a long skirt that is pleated. It is usually embroidered or has a thick border at the bottom. A ''choli'' is a blouse which is cut to fit the body; it is cropped exposing the midriff and is tied at the back with naaris or ties made from the same cloth.<br />
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Different styles of ''ghagra cholis'' are worn by Indian women, ranging from a simple cotton lehenga choli as daily wear, a traditional ghagra with mirrors embellished usually worn during Navratri for the ''garba'' dance or a fully embroidered lehenga worn during the traditional Hindu and Sikh wedding ceremonies.<br />
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Popular among unmarried women other than [[Gagra choli]] and [[Langa voni]] are kurta tops worn over jeans or light cotton trousers.<ref name="Kelting2001">{{cite book|last=Kelting|first=Mary Whitney|author-link=Mary Whitney Kelting|title=Singing to the Jinas: Jain Laywomen, Maṇḍaḷ Singing, and the Negotiations of Jain Devotion|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=elcn1IEJ3CEC&pg=PA226|year=2001|publisher=Oxford University Press|isbn=978-0-19-514011-8|page=226|access-date=15 November 2015|archive-date=29 July 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160729045424/https://books.google.com/books?id=elcn1IEJ3CEC&pg=PA226|url-status=live}}</ref><br />
<br />
; Pattu Pavadai/Reshme Langa<br />
{{Main|Pattu pavadai}}<br />
[[File:Langa Dhavani.jpg|thumb|left|Two girls wearing Pattu Pavadai.]]<br />
<br />
''Pattu Pavadai'' or ''Langa davani'' is a traditional dress in south India and Rajasthan, usually worn by teenage and small girls. The ''pavada'' is a cone-shaped skirt, usually of silk, that hangs down from the waist to the toes. It normally has a golden border at the bottom.<br />
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Girls in south India often wear ''pattu pavadai'' or ''Langa davani'' during traditional functions.<br />
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Girls in Rajasthan wear this dress before marriage (and after marriage with sight modification in certain sections of society.)<br />
<br />
; Langa - Voni/Dhavani<br />
{{Main|Langa voni}}<br />
This is a type of South Indian dress mainly worn in [[Karnataka]], Andhra Pradesh, and Tamil Nadu, as well as in some parts of Kerala. This dress is a three-piece garment where the langa or lehenga is the cone-shaped long flowing skirt.<br />
{{clear}}<br />
<br />
== Male clothing ==<br />
[[File:PrateikBabbar.jpg|thumb|An Indian model in [[Sherwani]]]]<br />
[[File:Achan-dhoti-tipu-sultan-fort.jpg|thumb|A man wearing a dhoti.]]<br />
<br />
=== Traditional clothing ===<br />
For men, traditional clothes are the [[Achkan]]/[[Sherwani]], [[Bandhgala]], [[Lungi]], [[Kurta]], [[Angarkha]], [[Jama costume|Jama]], [[Dhoti]] or [[Kurta]] [[Pajama]]. Additionally, recently western clothing such as [[trousers]] and [[shirt]]s have been accepted as traditional Indian dress by the Government of India.<ref name=social>{{cite book|title=Social Science a Textbook i History for Class IX as per New Syllabus|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=W7c8TBQhoAIC&pg=PA149|access-date=1 July 2012|publisher=FK Publications|pages=149–|id=GGKEY:PSTUKL4X874|archive-date=3 January 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140103072921/http://books.google.com/books?id=W7c8TBQhoAIC&pg=PA149|url-status=live}}</ref><br />
<br />
==== Undergarments ====<br />
{{Main| Kaupinam | Langota }}<br />
Kaupin is unsewn and langota is sewn [[loincloth]] worn as [[underwear]] in [[Akhara#Dangal|dangal]] held in [[akhara]]s especially [[Wrestling in India|wrestling]], to prevent [[hernias]] and [[hydrocele]].<ref name="Mahatyagi2007">{{cite book|author=Raman Das Mahatyagi|title=Yatan Yoga: A Natural Guide to Health and Harmony|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=IjpmZ3ysHTsC&pg=PA33|year=2007|publisher=YATAN Ayurvedics|isbn=978-0-9803761-0-4|page=33|access-date=17 April 2018|archive-date=29 July 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200729142505/https://books.google.com/books?id=IjpmZ3ysHTsC&pg=PA33|url-status=live}}</ref><br />
<br />
It is mandatory for [[Sikhs]] to wear [[kacchera]].<br />
<br />
es.<ref name="Dahl2006">{{cite book|author=Michael Dahl|title=India|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JW653gAa1T0C&pg=PA13|publisher=Capstone Press|isbn=978-0-7368-8374-0|page=13|access-date=15 November 2015|archive-date=26 April 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160426083913/https://books.google.com/books?id=JW653gAa1T0C&pg=PA13|url-status=live}}</ref> It is held in place by a style of wrapping and sometimes with the help of a belt, ornamental and embroidered or a flat and simple one, around the waist.<ref name="Sarina 2009">{{cite book|last=Sarina Singh|title=India|publisher=Lonely Planet|isbn=978-1-74179-151-8|pages=63–|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=vK88ktao7pIC&pg=PA63|access-date=15 November 2015|archive-date=30 April 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160430061036/https://books.google.com/books?id=vK88ktao7pIC&pg=PA63|url-status=live}}</ref><br />
<br />
Owing to its widespread popularity throughout India, different languages have different terms to describe dhotis. In [[Marathi language|Marathi]], it is called ''dhotar''. In [[Punjabi language|Punjabi]], it is known as a ''chadra.'' In [[Gujarati language|Gujarati]] it's known as "Dhotiyu", while in [[Telugu language|Telugu]] they are called ''Pancha.'' In [[Tamil language|Tamil]], they are called ''veyti,'' and in . Over the dhoti, men wear shirts or kurtas.<br />
<br />
==== Panche or Lungi ====<br />
[[File:Indian Relief of Ashoka, circa 1st century BC, from the Amaravathi village, Guntur district, Andhra Pradesh (India), in the Guimet Museum (Paris).jpg|thumb|right|A ''[[Chakravartin]]'' wearing a ''pancha''. [[Amaravathi (village), Guntur district|Amaravathi]], first century BCE. ([[Musee Guimet]])]]<br />
<br />
A ''Lungi'' is another traditional garment of India. A ''[[Mundu]]'' is a lungi, except that it is always white.<ref name="Sarina 2009" /> It is either tucked in, over the waist, up to knee-length, or is allowed to lie over and reach up to the ankle. It is usually tucked in when the person is working, in fields or workshops, and left open usually as a mark of respect, in worship places, or when the person is around dignitaries.<br />
<br />
Lungis, generally, are of two types: the open lungi and the stitched lungi. The open lungi is a plain sheet of cotton or silk, whereas the stitched one has both of its open ends stitched together to form a tube-like structure.<br />
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Though mostly worn by men, elderly women also prefer lungi to other garments owing to its good aeration.<ref>{{cite web|last=Encyclopedia|title=Lungi and Dhoti|url=http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1G2-3425500051.html|work=Description about Lungi and Dhoti|publisher=HighBeam Research Inc|access-date=13 July 2012|archive-date=14 June 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130614045715/http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1G2-3425500051.html|url-status=live}}</ref> It is most popular in south India, though people of Bangladesh, Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Myanmar, and Somalia also can be seen in lungis, because of the heat and humidity, which create an unpleasant climate for trousers, though trousers have now become common outside the house.<ref name="Indian Mirror Lungi">{{cite web |url=http://www.indianmirror.com/culture/clothing/lungi.html |title=Indian Lungi |work=Indian Mirror |access-date=19 July 2012 |archive-date=16 October 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121016054723/http://www.indianmirror.com/culture/clothing/lungi.html |url-status=live }}</ref><br />
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<br />
==== Achkan ====<br />
{{Main|Achkan}}<br />
[[File:Rajput Sherwani 2014-04-23 04-27.JPG|thumbnail|''[[Achkan]]'' sherwani and ''[[churidar]]'' (lower body) worn by [[Arvind Singh Mewar]] and his kin during a [[Hindu wedding]] in Rajasthan, India.]]<br />
Achkan is a small jacket that usually sports exposed buttons throughout the length of the jacket. The length is usually just at the knees and the jacket ends just below the knee. Achkan is very similar to the [[Sherwani]] which is a much longer coat-jacket dress. The jacket has a [[Nehru collar]].<ref name="Armilla2001">{{cite book|last=Armilla|first=Jose|title=Negotiate With Feng Shui: Enhance Your Skills in Diplomacy, Business, and Relationships|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=sWVVBvbUWKcC&pg=PA78|year=2001|publisher=Llewellyn Worldwide|isbn=978-1-56718-038-1|page=78|access-date=15 November 2015|archive-date=30 April 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160430231319/https://books.google.com/books?id=sWVVBvbUWKcC&pg=PA78|url-status=live}}</ref> The Achkan was mostly worn with tight-fitting pants or trousers called [[churidar]]s. Achkan is made from various fabrics for both formal and informal occasions. The achkan features traditional Indian embroidery like gota and badla. Achkan was commonly worn by the grooms during wedding ceremonies<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.tehelka.com/2016/01/nehrus-style-statement/ |title=Nehru's style statement |access-date=5 June 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160701091856/http://www.tehelka.com/2016/01/nehrus-style-statement/ |archive-date=1 July 2016 |url-status=dead }}</ref> or other formal festive occasions in the Indian subcontinent but when it evolved into the Nehru Jacket, the achkan became less worn. It was used by men. In India, the achkan is generally worn for formal occasions in winter, especially by those from [[Rajasthan]], [[Punjab, India|Punjab]], Uttar Pradesh and [[Hyderabad, Telangana|Hyderabad]]. The achkan later evolved into the [[Nehru Jacket]], which is now popular in India. It may be embroidered with gold or silver. A scarf called a dupatta is sometimes added to the achkan.<br />
<br />
====Bandhgala====<br />
{{Main|Jodhpuri}}<br />
A ''Jodhpuri'' or a ''Bandhgala'' is a formal evening suit from India. It originated in the [[Jodhpur State]], and was popularized during the [[British Raj]] in India. Also known as ''Jodhpuri Suit'',{{citation needed}} it is a western style suit product, with a [[Coat (clothing)|coat]] and a [[trouser]], at times accompanied by a [[vest]]. It brings together the western cut with Indian hand-[[embroidery]] escorted by the [[Waist coat]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.hindustantimes.com/Now-bandhgala-in-a-casual-look/Article1-556306.aspx |title=Now, ''bandhgala'' in a casual look |author=Veenu Singh |work=Hindustan Times |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110830085539/http://www.hindustantimes.com/Now-bandhgala-in-a-casual-look/Article1-556306.aspx |archive-date=30 August 2011 }}</ref> It is suitable for occasions such as weddings and formal gatherings.<br />
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The material can be silk or any other suiting material. Normally, the material is lined at the collar and at the buttons with embroidery. This can be plain, jacquard, or ''jamewari'' material. Normally, the trousers match that of the coat. There is also a trend now to wear contrasting trousers to match the coat colour. Bandhgala quickly became a popular formal and semi-formal uniform across [[Rajasthan]] and eventually throughout India.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Behold the Bandhgala|url=http://www.businesstoday.in/magazine/bt-more/fashion/fashion-trend-for-men-bandhgala-designer-raghavendra-rathore/story/209723.html|author=Raghavendra Rathore|author-link=Raghavendra Rathore|access-date=31 May 2016|archive-date=14 May 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160514235011/http://www.businesstoday.in/magazine/bt-more/fashion/fashion-trend-for-men-bandhgala-designer-raghavendra-rathore/story/209723.html|url-status=live}}</ref><br />
<br />
====Angarkha====<br />
[[File:Navratri Garba.jpg|thumb|right|[[Garba (dance)|Garba]] dancers, [[Ahmedabad]]. On the left, a male dancer in a Gujarati Angarakha]]<br />
The term angarkha is derived from the [[Sanskrit]] word {{IAST|Aṅgarakṣaka}}, which means protection of the body.<ref>Zaira Mis, Marcel Mis (2001) Asian Costumes and Textiles: From the Bosphorus to Fujiama [https://books.google.com/books?id=V-wcAQAAIAAJ&q=angarkha++sanskrit] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200729161924/https://books.google.com/books?id=V-wcAQAAIAAJ&q=angarkha++sanskrit&dq=angarkha++sanskrit&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCIQ6AEwAWoVChMIiIfj-e3dxgIVqhbbCh1dWgDU}}</ref> The angarkha was worn in various parts of the [[Indian subcontinent]], but while the basic cut remained the same, styles and lengths varied from region to region. Angarakha is a traditional upper garment worn in the Indian subcontinent which overlaps and is tied to the left or right shoulder. Historically, the Angrakha was a court outfit that a person could wrap around himself, offering flexible ease with the knots and ties appropriate for wearing in the various principalities of ancient India.<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=qYK1AAAAIAAJ&q=angarkha |title=Kumar, Ritu (2006) Costumes and textiles of royal India |isbn=9781851495092 |access-date=30 August 2017 |archive-date=29 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200729144123/https://books.google.com/books?id=qYK1AAAAIAAJ&q=angarkha&dq=angarkha&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CC0Q6AEwAWoVChMI9PzF2_jdxgIV6QfbCh0zwArh |url-status=live |last1=Kumar |first1=Ritu |year=2006 }}</ref><br />
<br />
====Jama====<br />
The [[Jama (coat)|jama]] is a long coat that was popular during the [[Mughal Empire|Mughal period]]. There are many types of jama costumes which were worn in various regions of [[South Asia]], the use of which began to wane by the end of the 19th century A.D.<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=irh9dvlLz3MC&dq=jama+dress+gujarat&pg=PA154 |title=Ghurye, Govind Sadashiv (1966) Indian Costume |isbn=9788171544035 |access-date=30 August 2017 |archive-date=29 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200729141240/https://books.google.com/books?id=irh9dvlLz3MC&pg=PA154&lpg=PA154&dq=jama+dress+gujarat&source=bl&ots=CkZu8NBJvV&sig=WUKd3Z5Rfzv7WHhA3wOnbd7cYs4&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCgQ6AEwAWoVChMIycDnoNK3xwIVipgaCh1VbAxa#v=onepage&q=jama%20dress%20gujarat&f=false |url-status=live |last1=Ghurye |first1=Govind Sadashiv |year=1966 }}</ref> However, men in parts of Kutch still wear the ''jama'' also known as the [[angarkha]]<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=hdOsQadR9_cC&dq=angharka&pg=PA4 |title=Tierney, Tom (2013) Fashions from India |isbn=9780486430409 |access-date=30 August 2017 |archive-date=29 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200729144046/https://books.google.com/books?id=hdOsQadR9_cC&pg=PA4&dq=kurta+mens+punjab&hl=en&sa=X&ei=i_1xVbCXLIv3UMmHg8AP&ved=0CGIQ6AEwCTgK#v=onepage&q=angharka&f=false |url-status=live |last1=Tierney |first1=Tom }}</ref> which has an asymmetric opening with the skirt flaring out to around the hips.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.tribuneindia.com/2000/20000902/windows/main7.htm |title=Sarosh Medhora (02.09.2000) The Tribune. Focus on men's formals |access-date=20 August 2015 |archive-date=10 June 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150610222131/http://www.tribuneindia.com/2000/20000902/windows/main7.htm |url-status=live }}</ref> However, some styles fall to below the knees.<br />
<br />
=== Headgear ===<br />
The Indian turban or the ''[[Pagri (turban)|pagri]]'' is worn in many regions in the country, incorporating various styles and designs depending on the place. Other types of headgear such as the [[Taqiyah (cap)|Taqiyah]] and [[Gandhi cap]] are worn by different communities within the country to signify a common ideology or interest.<br />
<br />
==== Dastar ====<br />
{{Main| Dastar}}<br />
[[File:Its relatives from sikh community weddings.png|thumb|Sikh man and women wearing [[Turban]]]]<br />
The [[Dastar]], also known as a [[Pagri (turban)|pagri]], is a turban worn by the [[Sikh]] community of India. Is a symbol of faith representing values such as valour, honour and spirituality among others. It is worn to protect the Sikh's long, uncut hair, the [[Kesh (Sikhism)|Kesh]] which is one of [[the Five Ks]] of [[Sikhism]].<ref name="kesh">{{cite book |first1=Mark |last1=Cobb |first2=Christina M |last2=Puchalski |first3=Bruce |last3=Rumbold |title=Oxford Textbook of Spirituality in healthcare | year=2012 |publisher=Oxford University Press | pages=91 | isbn=978-0-19-957139-0}}</ref> Over the years, the dastar has evolved into different styles pertaining to the various sects of Sikhism such as the [[Nihang]] and the [[Namdhari]].<ref name="dastar types">{{cite book | title=Sikhs in the Diaspora | publisher=Sikh publishing house | author=Surinder Singh Bakshi | pages=222 | isbn=9780956072801| date=July 2009 }}</ref><br />
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==== Pheta ====<br />
{{Main|Pheta}}<br />
''Pheta'' is the [[Marathi language|Marathi]] name for turbans worn in the state of [[Maharashtra]]. Its usually worn during traditional ceremonies and occasions. It was a mandatory part of clothing in the past and have evolved into various styles in different regions.<ref name=pheta>{{cite web | url=http://culture.kolhapurworld.com/special.html | title=Kolhapur pheta | publisher=kolhapurworld.com | access-date=15 July 2012 | url-status=dead | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121002233839/http://culture.kolhapurworld.com/special.html | archive-date=2 October 2012}}</ref> The main types are the [[Puneri Pagadi]], Kolhapuri and Mawali ''pheta''.<ref name=pheta2>{{cite news | url=http://www.indianexpress.com/news/from-baseball-caps-to-phetas/475803/0 | title=Types of pheta | work=Indian Express | date=13 June 2009 | access-date=15 July 2012}}</ref><br />
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==== Mysore Peta ====<br />
{{Main|Mysore peta}}<br />
[[File:Sir M. Vishweswariah.JPG|thumb|left|Traditional Mysore Peta on a bust of [[M. Visvesvaraya]]]]<br />
Originally worn by the kings of [[Mysore]] during formal meeting in [[Durbar (court)|durbar]] and in ceremonial processions during festivals, and meeting with foreign dignitaries, the Mysore peta has come to signify the cultural tradition of the Mysore and [[Kodagu district]].<ref name="mysore peta">{{cite web | url=http://www.mapsofindia.com/mysore/peta-turban.html | title=Mysore Peta | publisher=mapsofindia.com | access-date=15 July 2012 | archive-date=14 February 2012 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120214084745/http://www.mapsofindia.com/mysore/peta-turban.html | url-status=live }}</ref> The [[Mysore University]] replaced the conventional [[mortarboard]] used in graduation ceremonies with the traditional ''peta''.<ref name="mysore graduation">{{cite news | url=http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2007-02-23/bangalore/27886111_1_caps-mysore-peta-convocation | title=Mysore peta in university | date=23 February 2007 | access-date=15 July 2012 | archive-date=21 October 2012 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121021102933/http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2007-02-23/bangalore/27886111_1_caps-mysore-peta-convocation | work=[[The Times of India]] | url-status=dead }}</ref><br />
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==== Rajasthani safa ====<br />
Turbans in [[Rajasthan]] are called ''pagari'' or "safa". They are distinctive in style and colour, and indicate the caste, social class and region of the wearer. In the hot and dry regions, turbans are large and loose. The ''paggar'' is traditional in [[Mewar]] while the ''safa'' is to [[Marwar]].<ref name="paggar">{{cite web | url=http://rajasthanfoundation.gov.in/culture-lifestyle.htm | title=Paggar and safa | publisher=rajasthanfoundation.gov.in | access-date=15 July 2012 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120727083438/http://www.rajasthanfoundation.gov.in/culture-lifestyle.htm | archive-date=27 July 2012 | url-status=dead }}</ref> The colour of the ''pagaris'' have special importance and so does the ''pagari'' itself. In the past, saffron stood for valour and chivalry. A white turban stood for mourning. The exchange of a turban meant undying friendship.<ref name="turban raj">{{cite web | url=http://www.rajasthanunlimited.com/artandcraft/turban.html | title=Pagaris | publisher=rajasthanunlimited.com | access-date=15 July 2012 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120507021557/http://www.rajasthanunlimited.com/artandcraft/turban.html | archive-date=7 May 2012 | url-status=dead }}</ref><ref name="pagari">{{cite book | title=The Rajputs of Rajputana: A glimpse into medieval Rajasthan | publisher=APH Publishing | author=M.S. Naravane | pages=41 | isbn=8176481181| year=1999 }}</ref>[[File:Jawaharlal Nehru 1946.jpg|thumb|[[Jawaharlal Nehru]] wearing the Gandhi cap, 1946]]<br />
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==== Gandhi topi ====<br />
{{Main|Gandhi topi}}<br />
The Gandhi cap, a white coloured cap made of [[khadi]] was popularised by [[Mahatma Gandhi]] during the [[Indian independence movement]]. The practice of wearing a Gandhi cap was carried on even after independence and became a symbolic tradition for politicians and social activists. The cap has been worn throughout history in many states such as [[Gujarat]], [[Maharashtra]], [[Uttar Pradesh]] and [[West Bengal]] and is still worn by many people without political significance. In 2013, the cap regained its political symbolism through the [[Aam Aadmi Party]], which flaunted Gandhi caps with "I am a Common Man" written over it. This was partly influenced by the "I Am Anna" caps used during [[Anna Hazare]]'s Lokpal movement. During the [[2013 Delhi Legislative Assembly election]], these caps led to a scuffle between Aam Aadmi Party and Congress workers, based on the reasoning that Gandhi caps were being used for political benefits.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.dnaindia.com/india/report-delhi-polls-aap-congress-workers-scuffle-over-gandhi-caps-1929488 | title=Delhi polls: AAP, Congress workers scuffle over Gandhi caps | publisher=DNA India | access-date=3 December 2013 | archive-date=6 December 2013 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131206142141/http://www.dnaindia.com/india/report-delhi-polls-aap-congress-workers-scuffle-over-gandhi-caps-1929488 | url-status=live }}</ref><br />
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==== The Kashmir shawl ====<br />
{{Main|Kashmir shawl}}<br />
One of India's most famous exports was the Kashmir shawl, distinctive for its Kashmiri weave, and traditionally made of ''[[shahtoosh]]'' or ''[[pashmina]]'' wool. Valued for its warmth, lightweight, and characteristic [[Buta (ornament)|''buta'']] design, the Kashmir shawl was originally used by Mughal royalty and nobility. In the late 18th century, it arrived in Europe, where its use by [[Queen Victoria|Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom]] and [[Empress Joséphine|Empress Joséphine of France]] popularised it as a symbol of exotic luxury and status. It became a toponym for the [[Kashmir]] region itself (as [[Cashmere wool|cashmere]]), inspiring mass-produced imitation industries in Europe, and popularising the ''buta'', today known as the [[Paisley (design)|Paisley motif]]. Today, it continues to be a symbol of luxury in the Western world, commonly used as a gift to visiting dignitaries and used by public figures.<br />
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== Contemporary clothing ==<br />
{{Main| Fashion in India}}<br />
{{Main| Indo-Western clothing}}During the [[1960s in fashion|1960s]] and [[1970s in fashion|1970s]], at the same time as Western fashion was absorbing elements of Indian dress, Indian fashion also began to actively absorb elements of Western dress.<ref name=craik38>{{cite book |last1=Craik |first1=Jennifer |title=The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion |publisher=Routledge |isbn=1134940564 |page=38 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=9lmIAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA38 |access-date=30 August 2017 |archive-date=29 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200729142433/https://books.google.com/books?id=9lmIAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA38 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name=geczy>{{cite book |last1=Geczy |first1=Adam |title=Fashion and orientalism : dress, textiles and culture from the 17th to the 21st century |publisher=Bloomsbury |location=London |isbn=9781847885999 |page=185 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=vVVMAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA185 |chapter=Postwar Revivalism and Transorientalism |access-date=30 August 2017 |archive-date=29 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200729145158/https://books.google.com/books?id=vVVMAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA185 |url-status=live }}</ref> Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, Western designers enthusiastically incorporated traditional Indian crafts, textiles and techniques in their work at the same time as Indian designers allowed the West to influence their work.<ref name=craik38/><ref name=geczy/> By the turn of the 21st century, both Western and Indian clothing had intermingled creating a unique style of clothing for the typical urban Indian population. Women started wearing more comfortable clothing and exposure to international fashion led to a [[Indo-Western clothing|fusion of western and Indian styles of clothing]].<ref name=craik38/><ref name=geczy/> While women have the choice to wear either Western or traditional dress to work,<ref name=lakha>{{cite book |last1=Lakha |first1=Salim |editor1-last=Pinches |editor1-first=Michael |title=Culture and Privilege in Capitalist Asia |publisher=Routledge |isbn=9781134642151 |pages=252–277 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=V6CEAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA263 |chapter=The state globalisation and Indian middle-class identity |access-date=30 August 2017 |archive-date=29 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200729152518/https://books.google.com/books?id=V6CEAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA263 |url-status=live }}</ref> most Indian multinational companies insist that male employees wear Western dress.<br />
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Women's clothing in India nowadays consists of both formal and casual wear such as gowns, pants, shirts, and [[Top (clothing)|tops]]. Traditional Indian clothing such as the ''kurti'' have been combined with jeans to form part of casual attire.<ref name=geczy/> Fashion designers in India have blended several elements of Indian traditional designs into conventional western wear to create a unique style of contemporary Indian fashion.<ref name=craik38/><ref name=geczy/><br />
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== See also ==<br />
{{Portal|India|Fashion}}<br />
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* [[List of fashion designers#India|Fashion designers of India]]<br />
* [[Fashion in India]]<br />
*[[Kimkhwab]]<br />
* [[1950s in Indian fashion]]<br />
* [[1960s in Indian fashion]]<br />
* [[1970s in Asian fashion]]<br />
* [[1980s in Indian fashion]]<br />
* [[National Institute of Fashion Technology]]<br />
* [[1990s in Indian fashion]]<br />
* [[2000s in Indian fashion]]<br />
* [[2010s in Indian fashion]]<br />
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==Bibliography==<br />
* {{cite book |title=The Textile Manufactures and the Costumes of the People of India |author=J.Forbes Watson |publisher=India Office by George Edward Eyre and William Spottiswoode, London |year=1866|url=https://archive.org/stream/textilemanufactu00watsrich#page/n5/mode/2up }}<br />
* {{cite book |title=Illustrations of the Textile Manufactures of India |publisher=Victoria & Albert Museum, London |year=1881|url=https://archive.org/stream/CAI1057660001Images/CAI_105766_0001_Images#page/n3/mode/2up }}<br />
* {{cite book |title=Block Prints from India for Textiles|author=Albert Buell Lewis|publisher=Field Museum for Natural History, Chicago |year= 1924 |url=https://archive.org/stream/blockprintsfromi01lewi#page/n3/mode/2up }}<br />
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== Notes ==<br />
{{notelist}}<br />
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== References ==<br />
{{reflist}}<br />
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== Further reading ==<br />
* Boroian, Michael; Poix, Alix de. (2008). ''[https://books.google.com/books?id=R531j7QrmGUC India by Design: The Pursuit of Luxury and Fashion]''. {{ISBN|0-470-82396-8}}.<br />
* Russell, Rebecca Ross (2010). Ownership Case Study: Indian Wife/Widow Jewelry, in: ''[https://books.google.com/books?id=Wx11yQK3J3QC Gender and Jewelry: A Feminist Analysis]''. CreateSpace. {{ISBN|1-4528-8253-3}}.<br />
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{{Clothing in India}}<br />
{{Clothing in South Asia}}<br />
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