Bharatpedia - User contributions [en]

Tant sari

2021-12-20T07:37:26Z

2402:8100:303C:C046:1:1:5C5A:7AEE:

{{short description|Traditional Bengali sari}}
{{EngvarB|date=September 2013}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2013}}
[[File:Bengal saris on display.jpg|thumbnail|Tant Saree]]
{{Culture of Bengal}}
'''Tant sari''' is a traditional [[Culture of Bengal|Bengali]] [[sari]], originating from the [[Bengal]] region in the eastern part and usually used by [[Bengali people|Bengali]] women. Tant sari are woven from cotton threads and distinguished by its lightness and transparency. It is considered to be the most comfortable sari for the hot and humid climate in the Indian subcontinent.<ref name="Kapoor2002">{{cite book|author=Subodh Kapoor|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Ieypjy0k2TsC&pg=PA6422|title=The Indian Encyclopaedia|date=1 July 2002|publisher=Cosmo Publications|isbn=978-81-7755-257-7|pages=6422|access-date=7 November 2012}}</ref>

==History==
Under the royal guidance the tant (specially [[jamdani]]) and [[muslin]] became famous in and around [[Dacca]] (now [[Dhaka]], Bangladesh) and [[Murshidabad]] (now [[West Bengal, India]]) in the [[Mughal dynasty|Mughal era]].<ref name="GhoshGhosh1995">{{cite book|author1=G. K. Ghosh|author2=Shukla Ghosh|title=Indian Textiles: Past and Present|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=1xbRLoG5MAkC&pg=PA39|year=1995|publisher=APH Publishing|isbn=978-81-7024-706-7|pages=39–}}</ref> British government tried to destroy this art to protect the textile industry of [[Manchester]], but the tant culture managed to survive.

[[File:A traditional Bengali Tant Sari.jpg|thumb|A traditional Bengali Tant sari in a Bengali household, 2019.]]
With the division of Bengal province during the partition of 1947, some of the weavers migrated to West Bengal and continued their craftsmanship there. Thus the tant weavers are now seen in both parts of [[Bengal]].<ref name="Parinita" />

==Weaving method==
[[File:Weaver making saree Bishnupur.JPG|thumb|Tant sari in making, near [[Bishnupur, Bankura]].]]
Weaving of tant sari is famous and an age old crafting of [[Bengal]]. The craftsmen deftly weave the cotton to thread which is woven to tant sari. Two shuttles are used for this purpose. Traditionally, handlooms were used by the weavers, which have today been largely replaced by power looms to weave these saris.

==Themes and motif==
The typical Tant sari is characterised by a thick border and a decorative pallav, woven using a variety of floral, paisley and other artistic motifs. Some of the popular traditional motifs are: bhomra (bumble bee), tabij (amulet), rajmahal (royal palace), ardha-chandra (half moon), chandmala (garland of moons), ansh (fish scale), hathi (elephant), nilambari (blue sky), ratan chokh (gem-eyed), benki (spiral), tara (star), kalka (paisley) and phool (flower). Printed, hand-painted and embroidered patterns are also used to get a larger variety of designs.<ref name=Parinita>{{cite web|title=Parinita - tant saree background|url=http://www.parinita.co.in/pages/tant}}</ref> Different motifs including floral element, solar element and recently even modern art are depicted in this sari.<ref>{{cite web|title=Nutan Fulia Tantubay Samabay samity Ltd.|url=http://nftssl.com/}}</ref> Tant Sari comes with colourful design <ref>{{cite book|title=Spotlight Social Studies 4|isbn=978-81-7172-516-8|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=b8SXUQlgi2wC&q=west+bengal+cotton+saree&pg=PA77|last1=Bimcy|first1=Sr|last2=Sisily|first2=Sr. Bincy & Sr|last3=Charlotte}}</ref> and borders are made thicker because it is subjected to tear easily.

The traditional art of weaving [[jamdani]], considered the best variety of tant clothings, has been enlisted by [[UNESCO]] as an [[Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity|Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity]].

Along with ordinary Bengali women of Bangladesh and West Bengal, many prominent Bengali female personalities also prefer to wear tant sari as their regular outfit. Bangladesh prime minister [[Sheikh Hasina]], speaker of Bangladesh parliament [[Shirin Sharmin Chaudhury]], West Bengal chief minister [[Mamata Banerjee]] are notable among them.

==Care==
It is recommended that before the first wash, tant saris should be soaked briefly in warm water mixed with rock salt, to prevent the sari from bleeding colour during subsequent washes. Washing with a mild detergent, followed by starching and then hanging them to dry in a shaded area will ensure the longevity of these cotton saris.<ref name="Parinita saree care">{{cite web|title=Parinita - tant saree care|url=http://www.parinita.co.in/saree-care.html}}</ref>

==References==
{{reflist}}
{{Sari}}
{{Bengali clothing}}
{{Culture of West Bengal}}

[[Category:Bangladeshi clothing]]
[[Category:Saris]]
[[Category:Bangladeshi culture]]
[[Category:Dhaka District]]
[[Category:Tangail District]]
[[Category:Narayanganj District]]
[[Category:Culture of West Bengal]]
[[Category:Murshidabad district]]
[[Category:Nadia district]]

Ilkal sari

2021-12-20T06:34:41Z

2402:8100:303C:C046:1:1:5C5A:7AEE:

{{short description|Form of saree originating from Ilkal, Bagalkot, Karnataka, India}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2020}}
{{Use Indian English|date=January 2020}}

{{Expand language|langcode=kn|date=April 2019}}[[File:Weaving ilkal saree.jpg|thumb|Weaving Ilkal sari]]

[[File:Indian woman fruit vendor.jpg|thumb|Indian women fruit vendor]]

'''Ilkal sari''' is a traditional form of ''[[sari]]'' which is a common feminine wear in [[India]]. Ilkal sari takes its name from the town of [[Ilkal]] in the [[Bagalkot district]] of [[Karnataka]] state, [[India]]. Ilkal saris are woven using cotton warp on the body and art silk warp for border and art silk warp for pallu portion of the sari. In some cases instead of art silk, pure silk is also used.

==History==
[[Ilkal]] was an ancient weaving centre where the weaving seems to have started in the 8th century AD.<ref name="hist">Brief history of Ilkal saris is provided by {{cite web|url=http://www.hinduonnet.com/folio/fo9906/99060260.htm|author=Kamala Ramakrishnan|title=Southern legacy|work=Online edition of the Hindu, dated 1999-06-20|publisher=1999, The Hindu|access-date=2007-04-22|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070701071022/http://www.hinduonnet.com/folio/fo9906/99060260.htm|archive-date=1 July 2007|url-status=usurped}}</ref> The growth of these saris is attributed to the patronage provided by the local chieftains in and around the town of [[Bellary]]. The availability of local raw materials helped in the growth of this sari.<ref name="story">{{cite news|url=http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/articleshow/31067899.cms |title=Ilkal saree's story |work=Online edition of the Economic Times, dated 2002-12-12 |publisher=© 2007 Times Internet Limited |access-date=2007-04-22 |date=2002-12-12 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20040828130446/http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/articleshow/31067899.cms |archive-date=28 August 2004 }}</ref> About 20000 people in the town of [[Ilkal]] are engaged in sari-weaving.<ref name="ilkal">The history of Indian saris is discussed by {{cite web
|url=http://www.deccanherald.com/deccanherald/nov23/sh1.asp
|author=SUBBALAKSHMI B M
|title=Between the folds
|work=Online edition of the Deccan Herald, dated 2003-11-23
|publisher=1999 The Printers (Mysore) Private Ltd.
|access-date=2007-04-22
|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070404094343/http://www.deccanherald.com/deccanherald/nov23/sh1.asp
|archive-date=2007-04-04
|url-status=dead
}}</ref>

==Uniqueness==

* The uniqueness of sari is joining of the body warp with pallu warp with a series of loops locally called as TOPE TENI technique.
* The weaver will gait only 6 yards, 8 yards, 9 yards warp due to above TOPE TENI technique. KONDI Technique is used for weft through inserting 3 shuttles (ಲಾಳಿ).
* Pallau portion-Design: "TOPE TENI SERAGU" Normally in tope teni seragu 3 solid portions would be in red colour, and in between 2 portions in white colour.
* Tope Teni seragu has been regarded as a state symbol and was greatly respected during festival occasions.
* Traditional Borders: (i) Chikki, (ii) Gomi, (iii) Jari and (iv) Gadidadi, and modern Gayathri are unique ones in Ilkal saris - width ranging from 2.5" to 4"
* Border Colour Uniqueness: Red usually or Maroon dominates.

==Description==

The peculiar characteristic of the sari is joining the body warp with the pallu warp which is locally called as TOPE TENI. This technique is used exclusively at Ilkal. If anyone requires Ilkal sari one must prepare a warp for every sari. Warp threads for body are prepared separately. Similarly pallu warp is prepared separately either with art silk or pure silk depending upon the quality required. Thirdly border portion of warp is prepared, like the pallu warp, either art silk or pure silk and the colour used for pallu and on border will be one and the same. In general, the length of the pallu will range 16" to 27". The pallu threads and body threads are joined in loop technique, a unique method locally called TOPE TENI.

==Features==
The distinctive feature of Ilkal saris is the use of a form of embroidery called [[Kasuti]]. The designs used in Kasuti reflect traditional patterns like palanquins, elephants and lotuses which are embroidered onto Ilkal saris. These saris are usually 9 yards in length and the ''pallu'' of the Ilkal sari (the part worn over the shoulder) carries designs of temple towers.<ref name="story" /> This pallu is usually made of red silk with white patterns.<ref name="ilkal" /> The end region of the pallu is made up of patterns of different shapes like ''hanige'' (comb), ''koti kammli'' (fort ramparts), ''toputenne'' (jowar) and ''rampa'' (mountain range). The border of the sari is very broad (4 to 6 inches) and red or maroon in colour and is made of different designs with ochre patterns. The sari is either made of cotton, or a mixture of cotton and silk or in pure silk. The colors traditionally used are pomegranate red, brilliant peacock green and parrot green. The saris that are made for bridal wear are made of a particular colour called ''Giri Kumukum'' which is associated with the [[sindhoor]] worn by the wives of the priests in this region.<ref name="ilkal" />

'''Types of Borders'''

The design woven in the length wise borders are mainly three
types:
* Gomi (more popularly known as Ilkal dadi)
* Paraspet (Sub-divided into chikki paras and dodd paras)
* Gaadi
* Jari

'''Main Body design'''

*Stripes
*Rectangles
*Squares

'''Other Differences'''

With above broad parameters the Ilkal saris differ in matters of size, nature and quality of yarn used for different portion of sari as also colour combination and combinations of designs on the borders and main body of the sari. The beauty of Tope-teni seragu is further enhanced at times by weaving in its middle portion, yet another design known as ‘Kyadgi’.

==Production==

Weaving of Ilkal saris is mostly an indoor activity. It is essentially a household enterprise involving active participation of female members. To weave one sari with the help of the handloom, it takes about 7 days. We can weave it with the help of the powerloom also.

==Methods of Production==

Ilkal traditional saris are produced mainly on pit looms with the combination of three types of different yarns namely Silk x Silk, Silk x Cotton, Art silk x Cotton. Along with the above said yarn combination totally four different traditional designs are produced - they are Chikki
Paras, Gomi, Jari and recently modified traditional design Gayathri.

These saris are produced in different lengths 6.00 yards, 8.00 yards, and 9.00 yards with solid as well as contrast borders.

The main distinction in these saris is its attached temple type Pallav (locally called as TOPE TENI) by inter locking body warp and pallav warp using loop system and inserting weft by three shuttles using two different colours yarn by Kondi technique.

A weaver requires apart from himself two others for preparatory work.

==See also==
*[[Bidriware]]
*[[Byadagi chilli]]
*[[Mysore Sandal Soap]]
*[[Navalgund Durries]]

==Notes==
{{reflist}}

{{commons category|Ilkal sari}}
{{Sari}}
{{Karnataka topics}}

[[Category:Culture of Karnataka]]
[[Category:Saris]]
[[Category:Geographical indications in Karnataka]]
[[Category:Cotton industry in India]]