Tirsuli

2021-12-12T01:06:31Z

2402:3A80:972:59C1:D01D:BA68:1D06:67EE:

{{Use Indian English|date=July 2015}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=July 2015}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Tirsuli
| photo =Der Szurdse Kund aus Süden mit der Moräne des Milam-Gletschers.jpg
| photo_caption= Hardeol (left) and Tirsuli I, photo by [[Kurt Boeck]] in 1890
| elevation_m = 7074
| elevation_ref = <ref>''Kumaon-Himalaya Ost'' (map, 1:150,000), Swiss Foundation of Alpine Research.</ref>
| prominence_m = 624
| prominence_ref = <ref name="prom">This is an approximate figure. See ''Kumaon-Himalaya Ost'' (map, 1:150,000), Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.</ref>
| translation = Trident
| map = India
| map_caption = Location in India
| map_size =
| label_position =
| location = [[Pithoragarh district]], [[Uttarakhand]], [[India]]
| range = [[Kumaon Division|Kumaon]] [[Himalaya]]
| coordinates = {{coord|30|34|48|N|80|01|12|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref = <ref>[http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/ The Alpine Club's Himalayan Index]. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation quarterly Newsletter No.16 gives a slightly different figure.</ref>
| topo =
| type =
| first_ascent = 1966, N. Mallik(Dy.leader, S. Chakravorty, Tashi (Sherpa), Dorji (Sherpa)
| easiest_route = East Face of Southeast Ridge to Southeast Ridge: snow/ice climb
}}

'''Tirsuli''' is a [[Himalaya]]n mountain peak in the
Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand, [[India]]. It is part of the complex of mountains, including [[Tirsuli West]], [[Hardeol]], [[Dunagiri (mountain)|Dunagiri]], [[Changabang]], and [[Kalanka]], which make up the northeast wall of the [[Nanda Devi]] Sanctuary, in the [[Garhwal Division|Garhwal]] [[Himalaya]]. It rises at the northern end of the [[Johar Valley]], which drains into the [[Gori Ganga]]. This peak should not be confused with nearby [[Trisul]], which is on the southwest side of the Sanctuary.

In 1939, a serious attempt on this peak by the successful [[Poland|Polish]] expedition to [[Nanda Devi East]] was abandoned after a night avalanche buried leader Adam Karpinski and climber Stefan Bernadzikiewicz at Camp 3.<ref name="neate">Jill Neate, ''High Asia: An illustrated history of the 7000 metre peaks'', The Mountaineers, 1989, 0-89886-238-8, p. 89.</ref><ref>Himalayan Journal Vol. 12, p. 65.</ref> Indian team led by [[Mohan Singh Kohli]] from Indian Mountaineering Foundation, under Ministry of Defence, Government of India tried an unsuccessful attempt to the peak in 1964. Another team led by K. P. Sharma and organized by Himalayan Association attempted the peak in 1965, but turned back from about {{convert|18000|ft|m|-2|abbr=on}}.<ref>''Himalayan Association Journal'', Vol. 2.</ref><ref>[[Joydeep Sircar]], ''Himalayan handbook'', Calcutta, 1979.</ref><ref>''Himalayan Mountaineering Journal'', Vol. 1, No.2, p. 73.</ref> The peak was scaled for the first time on 9 October 1966 by another Indian team led by Chanchal Kumar Mitra & organised for the 2nd. time by Himalayan Association of calcutta. They ascended the east face of the south-east ridge and then took the south-east ridge to the top, mounting the summit bid from Camp 5, at about {{convert|21860|ft|m|-1|abbr=on}}. Nirapada Mallik (Dy.leader), Shyamal Chakrabarty, Nima Tashi ( former Dy.Director of training at The HMI Darjeeling) and Dorji sherpa were the summitters. Other members of the team were Manik Banerjee, K.K.Khanna, Marcopolo Srimal, Dr. Jungpangi from Geological Survey of India, Dr.Amitava Sen(M.O), Pinaki Sinha and Sailesh Chakraborty. The expedition was organised by the Himalayan Association, [[Kolkata]].<ref>''Himalayan Journal'' 27, p. 67.</ref>

[[File:Tirsuli group.jpg|thumb|left|257px|Expedition team]]
{{clear|left}}

==See also==
* [[List of mountains in India]]

==References==
{{reflist}}

{{Authority control}}
[[Category:Mountains of Uttarakhand]]
[[Category:Geography of Pithoragarh district]]
[[Category:Seven-thousanders of the Himalayas]]

{{Uttarakhand-geo-stub}}

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Tirsuli